hole in hull

wglanville

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May 13, 2010
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It is directly under the front battery compartment, I have access to both sides. The PO used maybe jb weld our something of the sort, obviously wasn't permanent.

My plan is to rivet an aluminum patch with something like 5200 to create a better deal. Should I put a patch on the inside as well as the outside? I was planning on using closed end pop rivets, maybe ss bolts, haven't decided. Any votes for one over the other?

Any advise on a better technique?
 

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g0nef1sshn

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Ill be doing patching to smaller holes under my knee brace, I asked about the pop rivet thing too. Some will say it'll work some would prefer solid rivets. I chose solid since it deals with the brace. Id recommend solid to you because I think it will make a more solid patch.

Check out cleco's while your at it. I just ordered a kit and it will make the work easier.

what kind of boat is it?
 

wglanville

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94 alumacraft backtroller. I'm not comfortable with bucking solid rivets (I've never worked with them before, I guess I'm just nervous) I thought if the pop rivets weren't recommended I could use some stainless steel bolts with washers and lock nuts and that would work just fine.
 

g0nef1sshn

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I havnt bucked rivets either. Im taking them off before I even have an air compressor or gun and tools to do it. Rivet discussions on here acan get like a Ford/chevy/dodge discussion. Every one has their preference and experience. Im a Ford guy.

From seeing where your patch would be on the hull and probably do some bumping on things in the water, Id go solid rivets. Pop rivets might hold fine too, Start off with them, and if down the road they let up or patch leaks you can always redo it.


Im working on a big v hull also. Nice lookin boats.
 
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jigngrub

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This is how easy it is to install closed end blind rivets:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0MA...eature=related

I've found that most people that say they don't like the closed end blind rivets have never even used them, but the closed end rivets have got to be good because they also use them in aircraft construction. I've used lots of the CEBRs and have never had a problem out of them.

If there was a reason not to like CEBRs it would be cost, a solid rivet is about 6 cents and a CEBR is 18 cents... but for the convenience of installation I'll pay the extra 12 cents any day... and if you think 18 cents is expensive check the cost of stainless hardware, it'll be at least twice that amount.
 
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wglanville

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May 13, 2010
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So, any advise on whether to do a patch on the outside, or double it up and put a patch on the inside and outside?
 

jigngrub

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A patch on the outside with the back of the patch "buttered" with 5200 or Loc-tite marine epoxy will be all you need.

FYI, regular 5200 takes a long time to set and cure and can remain tacky for a week or more at cool temps and low humidity. 5200 fast cure or marine epoxy will be a quicker job.

Have you looked at efdogs thread I posted a link to in post #2?
 
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g0nef1sshn

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Just doing the outside would be less work and probably be fine, both sides would be a stronger patch. If only one side, do the outside.

Im not an expert though.

If these guys on here could see the actual size of the hole(s) it might make a difference.

Id be asking if you should leave that patch work on there or remove it all aand start clean to know exactly the extent of the damage. Its hard for me to tell in those pics.
 

jigngrub

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Id be asking if you should leave that patch work on there or remove it all aand start clean to know exactly the extent of the damage. Its hard for me to tell in those pics.

The area to be patched should be cleaned inside and outside with a stainless steel cup brush in a grinder or drill before the patch is applied.

... and better pics would help.
 

gm280

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There is always the option to have it TIG welded and then no worries ever about leaks or rivets again. Just stating another option...
 

wglanville

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May 13, 2010
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I would love to attach better pics, but I have a heck of a time getting pictures small enough to post on here. It seems like I have to crop and shrink them to get them to attach. I'll work on it though.
 

jigngrub

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Get a FREE photobucket account and you can post nice big pics like this:
 

wglanville

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May 13, 2010
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I have a pb account, the picture size is always too big, so I have to zoom in and crop to get it under the size limit.
 

wglanville

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No Title

Maybe a little better pictures? This crack is about 5" from the keel, but it's flat so the patch should actually be pretty easy
 

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g0nef1sshn

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They really look the same to me, But like these guys said, It would if you want to to it right, clean it up and and ptch over it. Or patch over it as is with a aluminum patch and 5200 with rivets of your choice.

That link from jigngrub in the 2nd post gives you a real good idea of what to do.
 
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