HONDA 2HP clutch problem?

[Bosunsmate]

Hello
Ive a friends four stroke 2006 2hp honda here that he says is not turning the prop. Apologies i dont have a model number yet.
The split pin and all that seem ok as when i turn the prop i hear the shaft turn in the head. He said he was told by a mate that the centrifugal clutch has probably gone.
Ive no idea what that is or where it is. Do you have to remove the powerhead to get to it?
My first issue is that its not running right most likely due to old fuel so the carb will be off first, i can do all that id say but this clutch thing has got me stumped.
I appreciate any tips

 

[robert graham]

The centrifugal clutch is right under the power head and should be accessible by removing some screws and dropping the entire foot of the motor....clutch springs could be broken/stuck/corroded from water entering....especially any salt water....clutch should be easy to replace/repair....

 

[Bosunsmate]

thanks robert, i will get on to it and report back on any issues im facing and how it goes

 

[Bosunsmate]

well ive got on to it, but i havent being able to do much on the clutch. Ive being trying to get the motor running properly. Ive cleaned the carb as the fuel was old and yellowy. Whats happening now is the plug keeps on plugging up, does anyone know what the setting is for the screw on the carburettor? i assume that is a low speed fuel mix?
I cant check compression as my gauge doesnt fit in the small hole but it seems to be ok... with the finger compression test.
I might as well replace the plug too

 

[Bosunsmate]

well ive replaced the spark plug and it keeps getting black carbon on it. Im not confident on four strokes.
Would i be correct to say that that means its running too rich or the rings are stuffed?
Is that screw how i adjust that mixture and which way do i do that?

 

[robert graham]

The fuel tank and fuel system from tank to carb may be fouled with old gas and require flushing/cleaning with solvent....I use Berryman's B-12 from Autozone for flushing....once you get it all clean then start using Stabil in your fuel to prevent degrading and fouling...

 

[Bosunsmate]

I will do that Robert. My mate gave me permission to go for it. Its my first four stroke ive dismantled. Ive got to the clutch and it seems ok. Comparing it to online photos of new ones the clutch pads dont seem worn much at all.
So ive dug further on into the motor. Ive undone the bottom pan and a bit of plastic was sitting there waiting to greet me. It seems to of come off the camshaft [h=2]CAMSHAFT (Honda Code 6006415).[/h] 14111-ZM7-000

 

[Bosunsmate]

On turning the flywheel there is a ping that comes from the valve area so im assuming something has gone wrong there. The rockers and springs seem ok, so perhaps its something in the valve. I suppose to get into that will entail removing the flywheel.
The engine was putting out about 105psi compression, but it did have constant dry fouling of plugs so im not sure if anyone can put together a diagnosis for this yet?
I will post some pictures of the parts of interest soon

Well it wont let me upload a photo as its above some size limit...

 

[Bosunsmate]

No Title

 

[steve66]

Hi, I think you have self diagnosed your problem. Replace the cam, set the valves to anywhere between 0.010 - 0.015mm and she should be fine. Check the rocker cover whilst you have it stripped. These tend to rust badly and its much easier to replace whilst the powerhead is out. If its ok smear with plenty of grease. I specialise in Honda 2, 2.3s and have seen this cam problem 3 times. Its strange I either see absolutely no wear on cams whatsoever or totally melted like yours. Do you know if the engine had been run hard for some time?

 

[Bosunsmate]

Hi Steve, thanks for your reply. Ive put it back together and its running well. The rocker cover was indeed rusty. I hadnt seen your email till afterwards so i didnt smear it with grease but i did put permatex aviation form a gasket all over the contacting parts. Interesting you have seen this cam problem too.

I dont know whether they ran it hard as they are currently away in Hong kong but they were using it to push an old and i therefore suspect heavy 20ft keeler so i wouldnt be surprised if it did run hot. Perhaps the oil bath is too small and so the oil heats up too much and when the boat is swaying it might just make the cam get past melting point. The oil level tolerance between low and high is so tiny on this, i needed a spirit level to do it as if i tilted the motor off perfectly vertical by more than a few degrees the oil level would go from being overfilled to looking like it was bone dry.

Very interested to hear if you have any thoughts as to what might cause these failures

 

[Bosunsmate]

To others doing this themselves setting the timing is easy. Theres a small arrow on the cam and the crankshaft has a little dot on its metal shaft. Just line those up and make sure that the valves are closed when the piston is compressing. The only way really to install the cam is to do it when the pistons are closed as trying to push them open manually with the cam is hard work so i dont expect you will have any issues there.

 

[steve66]

Great Tip Bosunsmate. I find it easier to line the cam up with the crank. drop the pushrods onto the cam followers then push the valves down and locate the pushrods onto the rockers.

 

[steve66]

PS, don't forget to replace the shim on to of the cam before reinstalling the sump.

 

[steve66]

Hi Steve, thanks for your reply. Ive put it back together and its running well. The rocker cover was indeed rusty. I hadnt seen your email till afterwards so i didnt smear it with grease but i did put permatex aviation form a gasket all over the contacting parts. Interesting you have seen this cam problem too.

I dont know whether they ran it hard as they are currently away in Hong kong but they were using it to push an old and i therefore suspect heavy 20ft keeler so i wouldnt be surprised if it did run hot. Perhaps the oil bath is too small and so the oil heats up too much and when the boat is swaying it might just make the cam get past melting point. The oil level tolerance between low and high is so tiny on this, i needed a spirit level to do it as if i tilted the motor off perfectly vertical by more than a few degrees the oil level would go from being overfilled to looking like it was bone dry.

Very interested to hear if you have any thoughts as to what might cause these failures
I think as you have said the oil gets very hot especially if its been working hard. Your friends 20ft keeler would add credibility to my theory. From experience if the engine is low on oil the conrod goes first before the cam. Like I stated in a previous post I have only ever seen 3 cam failures the same as yours. I do a little contract work for a guy with a fleet of bumper boats running the same engine. These engines are being used constantly and are 2002 models and are still using the original cylinder (no liners in these) and original nylon cam showing no wear. Granted they have a governor fitted so they can't be revved high and have the oil changed every 3 weeks but still good going in my estimations.