I have a 2003 Honda BF130 HP that I personally changed the cylinder head two years ago after finding out that the engine keep having surging problem. I was on iboats asking for help and received a lot of feedback, so thank you! Everything was operational for the last couple of years until recently it's been giving me problem. At the boat ramp, on first startup, it would would always stall unless I advance the throttle to increase RPM. But normally on the second try, it would idle and run good. I was out clamming in Bodega when we went through some seaweed (grass) and the overheat temp alarm went off. I shut off the engine and allow the current to push the boat away from the seaweed area and try to restart the engine again. It started and we were off to go fishing offshore. As we were going out of Tomales Bay, the current and waves was rough, and we came upon some big waves where the boat was flying and landed pretty hard. I know not so fun, but I noticed that the rpm was dropping slightly. I gave it more throttle, and it was more sluggish. I then put the engine in neutral and turned off the engine. I restart the engine and it stumble and stall. I did this a couple more time with same result. I did manage to get the engine to idle, but it was rough and I advanced the throttle a little to keep it running. When I put the engine into gear it would stall right away. Obviously I was pretty nervous at this time and so we headed back to dock for safety concern. On the way back, we were not running on all cylinders as rpm was less than 2k and the engine was stumbling wanting to stall. The throttle was at max, but I kept trekking because no other choice, it was early and I didn't want to wait for the coast guard for a tow. :/ Luckily for us, we were able to get back to dock and now I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with the engine.
At home on the muff, when I turn on the engine, it stumble and stumble and stall. I can keep the engine running if I advance the throttle, but there's a lot of shakes and it sounds very weak. The taletell does pee normally, so the engine is not overheating as no alarm goes on. Things I've done.
1. Measure compression with throttle wide open - cylinder 1 175, cylinder 2 185, cylinder 3 190, cylinder 4 190.
2. Checked each spark plugs - cyl 1, 3, 4 - dark dry and black. cyl 2 is the only spark that looks normal.
3. Checked for spark according to the manual - I do have spark on all 4. Tested them in pairs, 1 and 4, 2 and 3. I do have spark.
4. Checked for gas - I took off the injector rails, using zip tie, secure all injectors to the rails, and turn the key to start. I recorded the injectors and see if there's any clogged injectors. All injectors and spraying fuel, I don't see any clogged up injectors. The spray pattern on no.2 injector looks better than the other 3, hard to tell, but they are all spraying fuel. I have a video of it that I can share. Probably not the best way to test, but I know I don't have a fuel delivery problem. I did removed all injectors and cleaned them before and went through the WHOLE fuel system and clean and replace all filters. I had bad gas before and definitely had water in gas, or phase separation. So I did went through the whole fuel system previously and clean everything. I had a trial run after the fuel system cleaning before and took the boat for trial at nearby river, and it was running GREAT. so I don't think it's the fuel. I ALWAY think its a fuel problem when the engine have problem, so I make sure to check the bulb to make sure it's hard, and it's hard.
5. My boat don't have a MIL indicator but from my online research and going through a lot of post by hondadude (Mike) and figuring out how to get the MIL light to go on. I was able to pull the code. Code 3 and 24. Which correspond to MAP sensor and ECT sensor. I don't know if it's old code or not, so i still have to reset the ECM and see if the same code is tripped again. I will soon post a picture to see if someone can help me figure out if my timing is right and engine didn't jump timing or something.
6. I can't do any cylinder drop test cause the engine is sputtering and stalling, not running properly. I even get the occasional backfire when I advance the throttle.
With the ECM setting MAP code and ECT code, I set out to clean the map sensor. I removed the throttle body and cleaned the map sensor. There wasnt much residue, it look clean. I couldn't find any MAF sensor cleaner so I use sensitive electronic contact clean. I'm sure that's fine. Also clean remove the IAC valve and clean that as well, again, it look clean as well. I still have to do some voltage check with the map sensor as mentioned in the manual, but it has been too hot in Sacramento to do anything outdoor.
Anyone has any idea was else I need to do? I think while I have everything out, I will recheck the valve clearance again. I will install everything back, reset the ECM, restart the engine and recheck the MIL to see if any code appears.
At home on the muff, when I turn on the engine, it stumble and stumble and stall. I can keep the engine running if I advance the throttle, but there's a lot of shakes and it sounds very weak. The taletell does pee normally, so the engine is not overheating as no alarm goes on. Things I've done.
1. Measure compression with throttle wide open - cylinder 1 175, cylinder 2 185, cylinder 3 190, cylinder 4 190.
2. Checked each spark plugs - cyl 1, 3, 4 - dark dry and black. cyl 2 is the only spark that looks normal.
3. Checked for spark according to the manual - I do have spark on all 4. Tested them in pairs, 1 and 4, 2 and 3. I do have spark.
4. Checked for gas - I took off the injector rails, using zip tie, secure all injectors to the rails, and turn the key to start. I recorded the injectors and see if there's any clogged injectors. All injectors and spraying fuel, I don't see any clogged up injectors. The spray pattern on no.2 injector looks better than the other 3, hard to tell, but they are all spraying fuel. I have a video of it that I can share. Probably not the best way to test, but I know I don't have a fuel delivery problem. I did removed all injectors and cleaned them before and went through the WHOLE fuel system and clean and replace all filters. I had bad gas before and definitely had water in gas, or phase separation. So I did went through the whole fuel system previously and clean everything. I had a trial run after the fuel system cleaning before and took the boat for trial at nearby river, and it was running GREAT. so I don't think it's the fuel. I ALWAY think its a fuel problem when the engine have problem, so I make sure to check the bulb to make sure it's hard, and it's hard.
5. My boat don't have a MIL indicator but from my online research and going through a lot of post by hondadude (Mike) and figuring out how to get the MIL light to go on. I was able to pull the code. Code 3 and 24. Which correspond to MAP sensor and ECT sensor. I don't know if it's old code or not, so i still have to reset the ECM and see if the same code is tripped again. I will soon post a picture to see if someone can help me figure out if my timing is right and engine didn't jump timing or something.
6. I can't do any cylinder drop test cause the engine is sputtering and stalling, not running properly. I even get the occasional backfire when I advance the throttle.
With the ECM setting MAP code and ECT code, I set out to clean the map sensor. I removed the throttle body and cleaned the map sensor. There wasnt much residue, it look clean. I couldn't find any MAF sensor cleaner so I use sensitive electronic contact clean. I'm sure that's fine. Also clean remove the IAC valve and clean that as well, again, it look clean as well. I still have to do some voltage check with the map sensor as mentioned in the manual, but it has been too hot in Sacramento to do anything outdoor.
Anyone has any idea was else I need to do? I think while I have everything out, I will recheck the valve clearance again. I will install everything back, reset the ECM, restart the engine and recheck the MIL to see if any code appears.
