Horrible day out fishing....Problem Force 125

[jerryjerry05]

Carb kits: they include a gasket and the soft plugs and maybe a spring.
Maybe a float?

I'd pull the bowls and check the condition??
Then if really crusty I'd order the kit.
The welch plug can be easy to replace or you can screw up the carb??

Most times the gasket is all you need, unless it's really crusty and needs a chisel to remove the crud?
Spray WD on the bowl around the gasket and let it set 24hrs.
This softens the cork and when the bowls dropped it might not get ruined.

Cleaning: Some carb soaks eat rubber, plastic.
The seat or needle might have rubber or plastic and the soak might destroy it??

I use Dawn soap and a can of carb spray.
The spray is for the passages you can't get with a brush.
Wash with dawn and rinse with clear water and blow dry.
Then reinstall fairly soon.
Just make sure the waters all gone.

The air screw: Turn it in slowly and count the turns.
Reset it to the same spot when done.

While the carbs are off, check the reeds.

 

[ErvCam]

So I think the main issue is that the previous owner didn’t use ethanol free gas. My bowls had more water than fuel. The first one was mostly water the second bowl on top id say is 50/50. How do I remove the main jets to see if they’re clean? Here’s pics of the bowls

 

[ErvCam]

What’s the best way to empty the gas tank?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Don't remove the jets.
Get a welders tip cleaner and run a wire through them.
Sometimes the tower where the jets are mounted can break off
when trying to remove.
The bowls actually looked good.

The best way is to tilt up the front of the boat.
Run a hose from the squeezie to a bucket or jug.
Squeeze the ball and siphon off the fuel.

Once it's empty remove the sender and check how much water's left.
Repeat the siphon process until it's as empty as it can get.
Look for crud in the bottom???

DO NOT USE ANY KIND OF VACUUM CLEANER.
An empty tank can still BLOW UP!!

For any remaining water, drop in paper towels and retrieve.

Make sure the gasket on the sender gets a bit of sealer.

If you can't get all the water out?? Boat stove alcohol will remove it or
make it so it can burn.

The water can come from about anywhere??
The fill cap, condensation etc.
Ethanol can contribute.

IF? you keep it full the condensation won't be a problem.
Keep it in the shade,
Use stabilizers.
I never used them and never had a problem.
But my boat didn't set any real long periods.

The very worst thing you can do is not use the boat.

 

[ErvCam]

I have 3 syphon pumps too. I’ll try and get the tank as empty as possible. I’ll report back once I’ve done this to see if all issues are resolved

 

[8ender]

Maybe I missed something, but did you ever replace that fuel pump diaphragm? It was ruined and almost certainly would cause issues with fuel delivery at WOT.

 

[ErvCam]

Maybe I missed something, but did you ever replace that fuel pump diaphragm? It was ruined and almost certainly would cause issues with fuel delivery at WOT.

Yes I did.

do you guys think I can disconnect the fuel supply line from the tank and plum it to the outside the boat and use the gas fill to put air in through there to create a syphon?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yes you can.
I run a long hose through the drain plug, add a squeezie and more hose.
Then squeeze the ball and the fuel siphons off into 5gal jugs.

This gets 97% of what's in the tank.
Then if the screws on the sending unit are in good shape? I remove that and stuff a bunch of
paper towels in the hole.

If I can't access the tank: then I use boat stove alcohol.
It absorbs any left over water and will burn when the motor starts.
Just don't run it on straight alcohol.

 

[ErvCam]

Sorry guys there hasn't been any updates on my end, I travel a lot for work and spent about a month on the east coast plus I purchased a home so ive been super busy. I did however get the gas drained and once it stopped syphoning I hooked up a air hose and tried to blow out any excess.

Jerry is this the boat stove alcohol you were saying to put in the tank to help burn any remaining water in the tank?

https://www.amazon.com/Captain-Phab...7052969&sr=8-13&keywords=marine+alcohol+stove

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yes it'll absorb the water and burn and mix with the new fuel.
That add you put a link to? Shipping $27 and $12 for the quart.
That's $160 a gallon.
Try West Marine or any marine and camping store

 

[ErvCam]

Ok will do I’ll have time to test the boat this weekend. I’m only gonna put 5 gallons in her this time

 

[jerryjerry05]

Before you try to start and after you add gas, unhook the fuel line at the pump.
Then operate the squeezie and draw the fuel from the tank into a clear jar.
Inspect the results.

 

[ErvCam]

Before you try to start and after you add gas, unhook the fuel line at the pump.
Then operate the squeezie and draw the fuel from the tank into a clear jar.
Inspect the results.

well I kind of just took the boat out and ran it. It ran awesome no hesitation at all now. On cold start it takes a few cranks to go and sometimes itll die when cold unless I shift it into neutral and let it idle at a higher rpm. Ive been out to the lake twice and crabbing once with no issues at all. Just wish I could troll with the force but it just moves too fast unless im on a major river with a strong current.

I have a self bailing deck with two 1" scuppers, when I run it normally its great however, two guys on the back of the boat and they drop below the water line and as a result wet feet. My major issue with this is my inspection port isn't sealed good due to the age so the boat takes on a lot of water and I have to keep the bilge pump running. Any recommendations on sealing the inspection port? Also should I just use rubber plugs to plug the scuppers? Thanks

 

[jerryjerry05]

Inspection port??
I stopped wearing flip flops and wear the boots in the pic.
They stopped YEARS of wet feet.

Yes plug the scuppers.

 

[ErvCam]

Inspection port??
I stopped wearing flip flops and wear the boots in the pic.
They stopped YEARS of wet feet.

Yes plug the scuppers.

Don't mind how dirty it is this is when I first got the boat ive already scrubbed the deck and back. Ive circled the inspection port.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Deck plate!!
Unscrew the plate and clean the old sealer off.
Then any good silicone that dries flexible.

Reinstall with a good bead of silicone and silicone the screws too.

Make sure the deck plates seal is still there?
Should be a rubber seal on the top piece that seals the top and bottom.

Make sure the pump and auto float switch is working right.
In some cases?? I recommend a second pump and switch.

 

[ErvCam]

Deck plate!!
Unscrew the plate and clean the old sealer off.
Then any good silicone that dries flexible.

Reinstall with a good bead of silicone and silicone the screws too.

Make sure the deck plates seal is still there?
Should be a rubber seal on the top piece that seals the top and bottom.

Make sure the pump and auto float switch is working right.
In some cases?? I recommend a second pump and switch.

I already un screwed it and cleaned the old silicone off and put new on however, I didn't do that to the screws but I will now. My rubber seal on the deck plate is the culprit I believe since its barely existent. Ill snap a pic of it today and post.

 

[ErvCam]

Hate to bump this old thread but I’m replacing the impeller on my force 125. When I pulled the lower unit off a rubber piece fell off which I believe goes onto the driveshaft. Then when I pulled off the impeller housing another piece came off. I’d just like to know for sure where each one goes so I can re assemble this thing. Thanks again guys other than that the boats been running great.

 

[Nordin]

The seal in pic. #1 should go over the spline at top of drive shaft and there should be a retainer at the shaft holdning the seal in place.
This seal is not really necessary, coat the spline with a small amount of marine grade grease if you even if you assemble the seal or not.
The purpose of the seal is to prevent water from reaching the spine in the crank.

The seal in pic, #2 should be at the drive shaft above the impeller housing.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The rubber (longer) one should set on a metal ring that fits over the splines and stops about 1-2"
down the shaft.
The thick one is pushed all the way down and rides on the top of the seal on the pump body.
They're not usually found on the older style pump????