Houston, we got a problem

[SweeperForce]

Last weekend I replaced my head gasket. I ordered new grade 8 bolts and put anti-seize on the threads. Only hand tightened the bolts then I got our my torque wrench. Since I don't have an inch/pound torque wrench I convert the 225 in-lbs to 18 ft-lbs. I started tightening on the center of the head right inline with cylinder 3. On bolt 1 I set my wrench and pulled. The wrench clicked and on to bolt 2. The wrench never clicked. I stripped out the theads on the block. Can I just die/tap to restore the threads then get a bigger bolt or am I screwed?
I though about doing a compression test but if I get a good reading now, I don't want it to start leaking out on the water. Plus isn't stage 1 fuel pump driven by cylinder 3?

Thanks,
Tom

 

[matt167]

Re: Houston, we got a problem

Heli coil or a time sert.. Never trust a torque wrench below 1/4 of the scale, always go one size down on the torque wrench.

A 1/4" beam torque wrench will probably work fine

 

[Jiggz]

Re: Houston, we got a problem

When torquing bolts always do it in increments of at least two increments. There is no such thing as torquing bolts in one shot from the beginning up to the last bolt. Not only will this skew the head or whatever you are bolting together but can result in stripped or broken bolts. For the engine head, start with half of the torque requirement, i.e. 9 ft-lb from start to end (inner to outer bolts in a coil pattern). Or you can also do it in three increments of 6 ft-lb (6-12-18) in each increment. Then start all over again this time you can either go with 14 ft-lbs or finish it off with 18 ft-lbs. Personally, I go with 14 ft-lb and start all over again and finish it with the required 18 ft-lb torque. Thereafter, you are supposed to check all bolts again to make sure none moves with the required torque. If one bolt moves, then you are required to do the process all over again until none of the bolts will turn or move with the required torque.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Houston, we got a problem

Yes go up 1 size. Drill and re tap.
I always use a ft.# tourque wrench(can't afford the Snapoff in# one I want)
Start at 15 then 18 finish at 20.
I got those #s from the Force Tech back in the 80's
Drilling and tapping isin't hard.
Just make sure you use the right drill bit.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Houston, we got a problem

Just One question, Tom: If it 'aint broke, why do you fix it till it is?

A stripped 5/16-18 bolt hole is just the correct size to re-tap to 3/8-16. Just go to Sears and buy a 3/8-16 tap and buy a grade 8 bolt to match the length of the original. You will need to enlarge the hole on the head to clear the bolt. Since it is only one bolt, the hole can be exact at 3/8. no need to allow clearance for multiple bolts.

AND--- your problem is why I always recommend using an inch pound wrench. Accuracy at low settings of foot pound wrenches is questionable, especially when using lubricated bolts. The torque values given in the manual are for dry installation. Lubricated with anti seize, you can get away with them as long as you don't go over but slip a bit (as you did) and "fer sure" you will strip one.

 

[gregmsr]

Re: Houston, we got a problem

Once upon a time I was looking for head bolts and never did find the "exact" length. Nobody carried them.
I went with bolts slightly shorter.