First of all welcome to iboats :welcome: great to have you aboard...
If all the damage is on the top cap, it shouldn't be too bad to repair. I can't see if there are any problems on the lower section of the hull. But are you asking if others would attempt that repair, I'd have to answer YES! But I like some good challenges myself... If you never tried any type repairs you are either going to enjoy it or hate it. There doesn't seem to be many folks inbetween... But it is doable with the proper instructions that you could easily aquire on these forums from some of the best in the business... JMHO!
i didn't think it would be that hard, but some people were making a huge deal out of it. Also, I really don't need it to look perfect, but I want a good stong repair that won't break if stepped on.
I've done some fiberglass repair and it is usually a sticky situation.
Would you mid giving me a quick rundown on what the basic steps are? (I don't need serious details as I can look them up) I don't need to remove the top cap do I? Is this something I could do over the course of a few afternoons?
i didn't think it would be that hard, but some people were making a huge deal out of it. Also, I really don't need it to look perfect, but I want a good stong repair that won't break if stepped on.
I've done some fiberglass repair and it is usually a sticky situation. Would you mid giving me a quick rundown on what the basic steps are? (I don't need serious details as I can look them up) I don't need to remove the top cap do I? Is this something I could do over the course of a few afternoons?
Ok the sand down to bare fibreglass part I forgot.
So, I'm thinking that I can get behind it and put tape and plastic wrap over the crack and the gouge. To stop excessive drip through.
Then sand down to bare fiberglass on the outside and then lay new glass.
But I'm unsure of how to build up when I have two surfaces that don't match.
Do I lay a strip over the whole crack, let that dry and then another strip to build it up? Or the other way around. Make the surface level and then lay a strip over the whole.
After I get the outside done. I should probably sand the inside and lay a strip of glass on the inside to reinforce right?
It would be great if someone told me I didn't have to do that.
For me, Alignment is gunna be the key here. Getting the Windshield to align properly and the top cap and side of the hull to be aligned back to normal is gunna take some creative bracing. Once you get everything aligned then it's all sand to fresh glass with a 12 to 1 bevel then build it back up. Do it on both sides and she'll be as stong as new. Have you done glass work before?
For me, Alignment is gunna be the key here. Getting the Windshield to align properly and the top cap and side of the hull to be aligned back to normal is gunna take some creative bracing. Once you get everything aligned then it's all sand to fresh glass with a 12 to 1 bevel then build it back up. Do it on both sides and she'll be as stong as new. Have you done glass work before?
I've done a little fiberglass. Patched a floor on vw bus, reinforced a transome and put a layer of cloth on a keel before.
But nothing approacing finish work.
But I hear what you are saying. Line it up like its supposed to by bracing until I can install the window. Once I know that I can install the window. Sand the crap out of it and and then build it back up.
What is a 12 to 1 bevel? google searched that term and turned up nuthin.
Basically means sand it back 12 times the thickness of the material soo.. if the glass is 1/4" thick you would sand back 12/4's all the way around the damage or 3" tapering to the center. Kinda like this...
Where the glass has been cut, sand it so the edges are on a 12 to 1 angle. Is that a 45? At any rate I do know that, you want to bevel the edges of the hole, not a right angled edge.
i dont know where you are but in florida i would source a old bayliner of the same model with a bad motor or rotten transom then cut that section of cap off and replace the section on mine. That way you get a free window frame and other small parts as well.
Yeah the source and cut is an option. And I would get the window which was smashed and smooshed.
I am likely going to go that route for the window, but If I can't I might have to do plexi-glass and stainless steel brackets as needed for a year or two until I can get proper replacement parts that are reasonably priced.
Back to the Fiberglass, how wide should my strips of glass be for the long horizontal crack?
You start with a 1" piece and progessively get bigger as you fill the beveled void. Use 1.5 oz CSM and 1708 Biaxial Cloth. I'd guess-ti-mate 2 of each with a final 2 layers of CSM. You final strips will be approx. 6" wide since you will be ginding 3" back on each side of the crack.
Ouch! That tree left on mark on the Bayliner, huh?!
I've had success on Corvettes using the Teflon backing plate with strings and weights to hold the Teflon in place while doing the build up of glass. You can easily manipulate the Teflon to follow contours and its easy to cut to shape. Wax it before you glass it. I included a 1-minute photo example for you to get the idea. There are vids on Youtube with guys using this same technique also--don't remember if it was Teflon they were using, but the same principle.
Of course, I agree with the others on the cutting back to clean glass. Make sure you get all the way past the damage area and cracks.
Remember to look at the thread by Oops and his hull extension. You can get some good ideas on how it prepared the surfaces and set up backing so the glass could be laid.
You start with a 1" piece and progessively get bigger as you fill the beveled void. Use 1.5 oz CSM and 1708 Biaxial Cloth. I'd guess-ti-mate 2 of each with a final 2 layers of CSM. You final strips will be approx. 6" wide since you will be ginding 3" back on each side of the crack.
What is a " beveled void"? Is that just the cross section picture above?
I suppose I need to get a grinder. What kind of blade? a 6" sander disk with 60 grit? That would bevel 3" on either side of crack!
Harbor freight is nearby so I can get one for $20-$30. (It will either break immediately or last 20 years. )
So... 5 layers. What about behind it... on the inside Do I even need to go there?
Yep, you're gunna do basically the same thing on both sides.
The cheapo HF Grinders don't last long. The Hitachi Grinder at Lowe's is $40 bucks and it's a good one. Use 36 grit resin coated sanding discs. You MUST get a respirator (preferably a full face one). If not then wear Goggles. The glass dust is nasty on your lungs. Get a Hooded Tyvek suit. Dust your self down with Baby powder before suiting up. Put a wet towel around your neck too. This will really cut down on the "Itch".
Ouch! That tree left on mark on the Bayliner, huh?! 
