how bad is this boat crack?

[jbcurt00]

oh, is there any possibility whatsoever that somehow, crashing through rough waters, my front was up to high, and butt too low to allow water to get into the hole of my bilge pump exit spout? same thing w/ my exaust spouts
those are pretty low no the boat and I could see those hitting water line, espeicaly in very rocky wavy water

just thinking out loud here and I don't think that crack is letting water in

Bilge hoses should have a bend in them (think upside down P trap) to eliminate water entering INTO the boat thru the pump outlet.

And the exhaust should have flappers to eliminate water entering the engine. Beside, if water came in thru the exhaust, how'd it get out into the bilge?

 

[rderenzy]

JimS123 and Old Ironmaker I'm telling you, like briangcc indicates on his boat - certain model trailers the rollers are only there to protect the boat from hitting the cross section, which is how mine is, with 4, large, long platforms to hold the boat
it is possible the platforms were not lined up perfectly in the grooves to add to this crack.
go to your local dealer and just look at boat trailers, none of them touch the rollers, none of them.

iron - your right, it wasn't serious, I don't want my boat to sink. thanks for info on it could flex and open.
I have an appointment with a fiberglas repair/collision repair specialist soon.

jbcurt00 good point, I'm sure my bilge has a ptrap - well maybe, its sort of rinky dink, but even a bend, or a pttrap, the lake and its massive water would force through that ptrap, or should
sorry, not engine exhaust, the exhaust tubes that I have for running my blower, they point right to the bilge, and the outside vents do not have flappers, atleast I do not think

another thought here.
I have noticed, where the most outsie of my boat is - the rubber bumper, under that, where it connets to my fiberglas, there needs to be a good seal(or I woul think) I have noticed some areas, there is no seal, other areas, the caulk or seal is starting to be removed, deteriorate or just come off - is that a possibility for water as well?

I guess we will find out soon, once fixing the crack, if more water comes in, i'll keep looking

 

[bruceb58]

Most of the boats weight should be supported by the bunks. Same reason an all roller trailer never has rollers on the keel. Boats main structural element are the stringers. Guess what? That's where the bunks are too!

Most older boats that have water leaking issues is because of a rotten transom and the water leaks around the drive.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

I stand corrected re: the rollers. There is a check valve in each exhaust port, sometimes these will let water pass through because they leak. Bilge drains as well as all other drains like live wells will have either a flooded elbow (P trap) or a check valve to hold water back. Another source of a possible leak other than a crack. Many boaters forget to fill these drain lines with a splash of plumbers anti freeze and then ice splits the lines and you can get water in the bilge. My drain ports for the 3 live wells are below the water line. Water shouldn't run uphill but if the line is split close to the drain hole water can get into the boats bilge. Bilge overflow should be well above the water line.

 

[rderenzy]

Just had a collision/fiber glass shop inspect.
I do have stress cracks in the front of the boat - no hairlines, just visual cracks (are those worth fixing? I'm sure they will only get worse)
climbing around the bottom I notice a few of these too seems like they are all over the boat

as for the main crack - he is very confident that crack is not allowing water in
there are also no water blisters anywhere

I kept asking how important is each to fix and he was very avoiding answering - probably because no one could tell or know.
i'll get a written quote from him later

i'll most likely pursue the main crack repair - but what about the other stress cracks, like in the front of the boat I can't put my finger nail in, but its visible

 

[Old Ironmaker]

I have no idea why a guy that repairs fibreglass wouldn't advise you on all the cracks. That's how he makes his money after all. Was this a marine guy too or exclusively an auto body shop? I have a pal who has 2 older glass boats from the 80's with multiple spider cracks on the fibreglass that I noticed when I buffed the oxidization out and waxed them. Mostly all above the water line, sun exposure related maybe. He said it was nothing, all surface stuff. Others with glass experience will advise I'm sure.

 

[Stumpalump]

Your boat has been pounded hard. When you say stress crack then it's probably just the gel coat cracking from the pounding and flexing. Let the shop fix what they deem structural. Last plastic (fiberglass) boat I had leaked thru a previous repair that the manufacture fixed. They fixed it again but unless the floor gets ripped out its like putting bondo on a dent. Other boat that had a crack and leak looked just like yours. It had a cracked stringer. I ripped out the floor and glassed in new stringers. After a few years it was leaking in the rest of the rotten hull. I went to Aluminum hulls and have never looked back. Next boat will be a Great loop boat and Pacific North West boat. Aluminum may be too expensive in that size. More expensive for a reason. It's a superior longer lasting material. You get your money back in resale and fuel economy. I just sold a 1983 aluminum 16' hull for 3k. Upgraded to a 1991 that is still mint. Most 1983 and some 1991 glass boats have been in a land fill for a decade. Different topic yes so let the shop fix the crack and drive it easy in ruff water. Soon let sombody else get a few more years out of it before the landfill does.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

Buddy just sold his 94' 16' Lund 115 HP 2 stroke for 10 grand. It only cost him another 20 to get into a brand spanking new Smoker Craft of the same size but a 90 HP 4 stroke. I have been offered a few more bucks for my 1994 StarCraft than what I paid for it 8 years ago. I do have a few grand in upgrades. I won't take it. To get the same boat new will put me out another 45K.

 

[Stumpalump]

Buddy just sold his 94' 16' Lund 115 HP 2 stroke for 10 grand. It only cost him another 20 to get into a brand spanking new Smoker Craft of the same size but a 90 HP 4 stroke. I have been offered a few more bucks for my 1994 StarCraft than what I paid for it 8 years ago. I do have a few grand in upgrades. I won't take it. To get the same boat new will put me out another 45K.

Smoker Craft may be the top and the food chain for mass produced boats in that size. Nice reverse chine hull. Klamath still makes my Bayrunner. My 18 only has a 48 Evinrude special on it but it runs 34 mph. Cruises at 27 all day on 20 bucks worth of gas plus I can tow it with a small beater car. My glass boats were an adventure in maintnence. Towing fuel in the one ton truck alone was more than I spend per trip now. But the big benifit is that now I go way more often. Sometimes I'm only on the water 2 hours for a nice evening break. No more boat covers and no more wax. I run it up on the rocky beach and throw sticks to the muddy dog. You could not give me a heavy plastic and vinyl bling boat loaded with China gizmos. How about outdrives and anything Mercury makes outside of their racing division? My buddy needs a bravo 3 outdrive rebuild. $5900. Sorry I mentioned outdrives. What a cluster they are. Now put one in a plastic POS blingy bubble boat and all I can think of is sucker. I'm 54 and was raised on a river. I worked for a marina and two boat manufactures. I've owned 15 boats in every flavor and that's my take. Only plastic boat I'd consider is a CDory. Not that they are good but are good great loop boats for extended travel.

 

[rderenzy]

I have no idea why a guy that repairs fibreglass wouldn't advise you on all the cracks. That's how he makes his money after all. Was this a marine guy too or exclusively an auto body shop? I have a pal who has 2 older glass boats from the 80's with multiple spider cracks on the fibreglass that I noticed when I buffed the oxidization out and waxed them. Mostly all above the water line, sun exposure related maybe. He said it was nothing, all surface stuff. Others with glass experience will advise I'm sure.

this was a fiberglass collision specialist - specializing in RV and boats
I told him I don't know how much money I wanted to put into this boat, he is going to give me quotes to fix all cracks or just the large crack
maybe he's just an honest, nice guy trying to run his company

I also have these spider cracks above the water line - but you lost me - he said it was nothing, but it should be fixed?

 

[rderenzy]

Smoker Craft may be the top and the food chain for mass produced boats in that size. Nice reverse chine hull. Klamath still makes my Bayrunner. My 18 only has a 48 Evinrude special on it but it runs 34 mph. Cruises at 27 all day on 20 bucks worth of gas plus I can tow it with a small beater car. My glass boats were an adventure in maintnence. Towing fuel in the one ton truck alone was more than I spend per trip now. But the big benifit is that now I go way more often. Sometimes I'm only on the water 2 hours for a nice evening break. No more boat covers and no more wax. I run it up on the rocky beach and throw sticks to the muddy dog. You could not give me a heavy plastic and vinyl bling boat loaded with China gizmos. How about outdrives and anything Mercury makes outside of their racing division? My buddy needs a bravo 3 outdrive rebuild. $5900. Sorry I mentioned outdrives. What a cluster they are. Now put one in a plastic POS blingy bubble boat and all I can think of is sucker. I'm 54 and was raised on a river. I worked for a marina and two boat manufactures. I've owned 15 boats in every flavor and that's my take. Only plastic boat I'd consider is a CDory. Not that they are good but are good great loop boats for extended travel.

I'm not really sure I can get a aluminum hull that is 19', that I can take on inland lakes, with the family, and ski ,tube, etc.
surely your need or want on the water is much much more different than mine

 

[rderenzy]

back to the crack - I've never had any work like this done before -
any idea on a ball park estimate for that 5" long crack? the picture I posted

Stumpalump - I'm going to do that, probably just fix whats structural - its a 20 year old boat that I paid 3k for - however at first glance, the repair specialist did not think anything was structural - but probably best to fix it before it does come structural

 

[briangcc]

I had one spider crack fixed on my Four Winns and I want to say the repair was $800. Some of that was for the shop to buy the gelcoat as they were not a Four Winns dealer so they didn't have the matching white on the shelf. IF I recall correctly the crack was about 5" long and up near my windshield.

​I never did get the quote I wanted on the bottom repairs which were through the gel. Those were several feet long as a result of beaching my boat on a rock pile - inadvertently. Never took on water and IF I had kept it I would have repaired it - best guess is I was looking at a couple grand in repairs. It's someone else's issue now as I no longer own this boat.

 

[rderenzy]

ouch - any chance my boat insurance would cough up some money? obviously the crack happened while on the water
would be hard to cough up 800 - 1000's for a boat that cost me 3000

 

[rderenzy]

I had one spider crack fixed on my Four Winns and I want to say the repair was $800. Some of that was for the shop to buy the gelcoat as they were not a Four Winns dealer so they didn't have the matching white on the shelf. IF I recall correctly the crack was about 5" long and up near my windshield.

​I never did get the quote I wanted on the bottom repairs which were through the gel. Those were several feet long as a result of beaching my boat on a rock pile - inadvertently. Never took on water and IF I had kept it I would have repaired it - best guess is I was looking at a couple grand in repairs. It's someone else's issue now as I no longer own this boat.

my question is, was the crack open? like you could put a finger nail into it? wider than that?
or just a visual crack that was not rough, ridged or couldn't get a hair into

 

[JimS123]

Spider cracks are due to running the boat hard in rough water, and / or poor fiberglass layup. My buddy bought a brand new boat and it spider cracked the first month. He was not an idiot on the water. His boat was replaced by the manufacturer, no questions asked. Repairs of excessive spider cracks are money wasted.

The crack in the OP's boat is structural, and the boat needs to be inspected by a qualified marine surveyor.. The boat is not safe.

Bunk trailers that are designed so the boat doesn't hit a crossmember, have a rubber pad on top of the crossmember. Boat trailers with V-rollers like the OP's are designed to make the boat launch and retrieve easier. Thus, the keel must touch the roller. No boat manufacturer will install a $30 roller if all that is needed is a 50 cent pad.

 

[bruceb58]

SBunk trailers that are designed so the boat doesn't hit a crossmember, have a rubber pad on top of the crossmember. Boat trailers with V-rollers like the OP's are designed to make the boat launch and retrieve easier. Thus, the keel must touch the roller. No boat manufacturer will install a $30 roller if all that is needed is a 50 cent pad.

Done all the time. Boat trailers are made to fit many boats. My front roller doesn't come close to my hull. It's there when the boat starts floating and the bow drops. On my trailer most of the rollers do touch the keel but the majority of the weight is on the bunks. I can turn every keel roller when the boat is on the trailer. Every bunk trailer for every boat I have ever owned is that way.

 

[Blind Date]

What year is the boat? Has the floor developed any soft spots yet. Looks like absolutely nothing to me. Not sure what all the fuss is about.

 

[JimS123]

Done all the time. Boat trailers are made to fit many boats. My front roller doesn't come close to my hull. It's there when the boat starts floating and the bow drops. On my trailer most of the rollers do touch the keel but the majority of the weight is on the bunks. I can turn every keel roller when the boat is on the trailer. Every bunk trailer for every boat I have ever owned is that way.

Of course its done all the time. In any average day of boating, on the water and at the launch ramp, how many things do you see that are being done incorrectly? Many trailers are quite adjustable, but you still need to get the correct one for the boat.

Just before I bought my first boat I went to a funny building and took out a boating book (a library I think - do they still have those? LOL) Anyhoot, it was very informative and taught me a lot. Boy, I wish I still had that book! Just bought a new Boston Whaler, and you know what? The very comprehensive Owner's Manual said the same thing about trailer setup as what I read in that book 48 years ago.

 

[briangcc]

my question is, was the crack open? like you could put a finger nail into it? wider than that?
or just a visual crack that was not rough, ridged or couldn't get a hair into

Finger nail caught it. As it was above the waterline the gelcoat was color matched. At the time the boat was around 8 years old so the gel faded from the original. When they were done, you couldn't tell where the repair was made. Money well spent as far as I was concerned as cosmetically the boat was fine. Had I had the lower scratches repaired under the water I would have had them use whatever white they had on hand as only the fish would have seen the repair.

To answer another poster further down...my boat wasn't run hard in rough water.

As to your specific question about insurance - you can ask. Don't be surprised if your premiums go up as a result of the claim though.