How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

[Grits]

Hello Everyone!

I am getting closer to painting my '93 120 Evinrude; however, I have run into a couple of stubborn parts. In the images below, you will see the bottom of the midsection of the motor. I cannot find an exploded view of this part of the motor.

It looks like a press fit. In the bottom of the second image you will see a small hole in the center. In the photo, it is angled down. The part is upside down so it would be angled up if it were on the boat. I thought it may be for a pin. If it is, it bottoms out. It does not go through the tube. Is is going to be very difficult if not impossible to support in a press. I wanted to ask a few questions anyway before I started putting a lot of force in it.

There was a nut on the threaded end of the tube that took a lot of persuasion to get off.

I will take any and all suggestions.

Thank you for your help.

Grits

 

[5150abf]

Re: How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

I would get some masking tape and tape off what you don't want painted.
It has been my experience that things are normally harder to put back together than to take apart, so unless something is actuall broken I wouldn't take it apart.
And that is a cast part so you are more than likely going to break it before you get it apart/back together or you could fracture it and it won't fail until you are Wot on the water and that looks like the part that holds the motor on the boat.
It seems alot easier to find some newspaper and masking tape than to track down that part.
Just my humble opinion.

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

Good advice 5150...I agree,paint it as is.Those cast parts can be a PIA and can crack very easy.

 

[Grits]

Re: How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

Thanks for the replies. I agree about taking it apart; however, I have some serious rust on the top, as it is on the motor, in this part. I should have been a little more specific about my intentions. I want to get it apart to blast it and stop the rust. There is a retaining ring on the top of the tube. It is so badly corroded, I can not tell how it is fitted on. I was also going to replace this retaining ring. If the tube is not stainless, I was going to replace it also.

Machine work is another affliction of mine. Other than the cast parts, I can make the tube, retaining ring, and the nut if I have to. Below is an image of the area where the rust starts. This image does not depict how bad the rust really is. If necessary, I can tape things up the best I can and then blast it. I will not be able to get all the rust and I do not want to get blasting media between the tube and the housing.

Thanks again,

Grits

 

[Bob547]

Re: How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

The hole is not for a pin, I believe its just a drain hole. The splines are corroded, try soaking it with penetrating oil and heating it with a mapp gas torch. You might as well replace the steering arm bushing and seals while you're at it too. That tube is part of the steering arm, it's all one peice. Once you get the bottom part off it will slide out from the top.

 

[Bob547]

Re: How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

BRP has a online parts catalog with a diagram of the mid-section.

 

[Grits]

Re: How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

Thanks Bob:

You are on target about replacing the seals. The motor is very low hour, less than 200; however, it was in salt water. I plan on keeping it so I want to fix any future potential problem.

I am going to warm it up first and if that does not work I will go the other direction. I have found freezing a press fit sometimes does the trick. Many press fits are assembled cold and then they tighten when the parts warm up.

Thanks again for the tip on the hole. I felt it was a drain but was not sure. I am going to take a look with a bore scope to make sure nothing is lodged in it.

Do you know where I can get a schematic of this section of the the motor?

Thanks,

Roger "Grits" Gravis

 

[Bob547]

Re: How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

Hey Grits, I am acually doing the same thing you are, I completly disassembled the mid-section, sandblasted all the parts, painted them, will assembly soon. Im rebuilding the power head too, bored it out, new everything, if its a gasket or plastic bushing im just replacing everything. Its a evinrude 225, used in salt water, it took me weeks to get it all apart, alot of corrosion. i think we posted at the same time about the parts diagram in my previous post go to that website brp and u can see all parts there and you can zoom in to see more detail......Bob

 

[Grits]

Victory

Victory

Hello EVeryone!

I finally got it apart. By using both hands, both feet, a home made part, and a gear puller, it came off. I was not frozen, just a very tight fit.

Now I can start going the other way with this thing. Notice the corrosion on the steering arm.

Thank you everyone for your help.

Grits

 

[Bob547]

Re: How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

Your steering arm looks like its in very good condition, mine was 20 times more rusted. It will look like new after u blast it. Nice job getting it apart, now the hard part is over.

 

[Grits]

Re: How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

I am still working on disassemble. Is there any trick to taking the shaft or exhaust housing off. Evinrude is unclear about the name but it is the big section between the foot and the power hear. I have all the bolts out and it will not move.

Thanks and have a great day.

Grits

 

[JJB]

Re: How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

Hey grits , I am having the same problem I have lots of play in my upper bushing and want to replace it but cant get it appart ! what type of home made parts did you make and what type of gear puller did you use ans how did you protect the threads on the shaft ? I am at a stand still with my piece . I did heat it and try to drived it out but no luck so far . post a picture of the method you used ! Thanks JJB

 

[Grits]

Re: How do I Get this Sucker Apart?

JJB

I will try to my best to explain how I got the d$#n thing apart. First, you will not be able to drive it out without breaking something. The lower, half circle, aluminum piece that bolts to the motor is splined as is the shaft. I doubt that it is frozen because it should have been full of grease since it was built.

You will need a fairly large, two pronged gear puller. Also, you need a round piece of steel rod larger than the hole, in the steering arm tube, and smaller than the OD of the tube. I machined a shoulder on a scrap piece of steel rod. The rod fit into the tube and the shoulder was just smaller than the OD. This is not necessary of you have someone to help you hold everything in place. You just need something round to put on top of the tube to push it through the splined hole. You will not be able to catch all, the aluminum piece, that bolts to the motor, with your gear puller. I was only able to catch about half a claw. Center the screw on the gear puller as well as you can over the tube. Start applying pressure. It should slip off with moderate but firm force. It is a tight fit.

It will probably take a press to put it back together. You could also rig up something with all-thread, nuts, large washers, and maybe a Collier of some sort. A large socket may suffice for the coll er. You could put a nut and a large washer one the all-thread. Run the all-thread through the top of the tube. Put another nut and washer on the bottom the top. Tightening the nuts will pull the aluminum splined piece on the tube. You will have to get enough of the tube through the aluminum piece to get the nut on the tube to pull it the rest of the way down. Again, I would not try to drive it on. The rick of damaging something is high.

I machined the piece to fit into the tube because I was by myself. If you have someone to help hold everything in place and also turn the wrench on the gear puller it will be much easier. It took me a while to get the job done because I was not sure what held everything in place. I did not want to take a chance of breaking anything. Take great care to protect the threads on the tube. I assume you got the nut off. I used a 1 3/4" socket in an impact wrench. In my opinion, an impact wrench is much better to break nuts or bolts loose due to the pounding action. I used a 1/2" impact with an 3/4" adaptor. I have a 3/4" impact but I did not want to put that much torque on the part. I actually turned my air pressure down to about seventy five pounds to lessen the torque on the 1/2" impact.

When you put it back together, make sure you file or sand any burs off the splines. Mine was a little rough when I got it apart. It looked like it had something in it when it was put together. Most likely a metal shaving.

I assume you have the foot removed to get the shift rod out of the way. If you have any questions, send me a PM and I will give you my phone number.

If you are wondering why I have all these tools, I own and operate a turf farm and we have to fabricate or modify much of our equipment.

I am having trouble getting the shaft loose from the power head or vise versa. If you have done this, please let me know. I think I have all the nuts and bolts off but it still feels like it is bolted somewhere.

I cannot emphasize how much easier your task will be with another set of hands. If I had not made the insert, for the tube, and had an air ratchet, for the gear puller, I would have had a very hard time getting it apart by myself. It was still difficult with the tools I had.

It is late and I apologize for any typos or spelling errors I missed.

Good luck and keep me posted.

Grits