16' 1995 Lund Rebel, tiller config., open floor plan with no bench seats.
Current carpeted deck is to be replaced. Deck attached with 50 wide-head rivits that pass through carpet, deck and stringer surface (factory original). I understand that I will use the old deck piece as an outline template for cutting-to-shape the plywood for the new deck.
New deck will be sealed with epoxy and fabric. I may use rivits or stainless screws to hold the new deck to stringers.
When ready to attach new deck piece to stringers, I'd like to avoid using chalk line marks placed on the top, and drilling through new deck to make new holes into the stringer top surfaces.
Question: Do you think I could match up the holes in the new deck piece to match the current rivit holes in the stringers?
While I have the old deck clamped as a template to the new deck piece, I could also use a drill guide and the original holes to drill perpendicular rivit (or screw) holes through the new piece.
Would this not work due to flexing of the new deck, boat hull expansion, etc., never getting all 50 holes to match up correctly? Or is matching to the original holes a common way of mounting the new deck piece? Stick with chalk line, and make new holes?
Thanks for your comments!
Current carpeted deck is to be replaced. Deck attached with 50 wide-head rivits that pass through carpet, deck and stringer surface (factory original). I understand that I will use the old deck piece as an outline template for cutting-to-shape the plywood for the new deck.
New deck will be sealed with epoxy and fabric. I may use rivits or stainless screws to hold the new deck to stringers.
When ready to attach new deck piece to stringers, I'd like to avoid using chalk line marks placed on the top, and drilling through new deck to make new holes into the stringer top surfaces.
Question: Do you think I could match up the holes in the new deck piece to match the current rivit holes in the stringers?
While I have the old deck clamped as a template to the new deck piece, I could also use a drill guide and the original holes to drill perpendicular rivit (or screw) holes through the new piece.
Would this not work due to flexing of the new deck, boat hull expansion, etc., never getting all 50 holes to match up correctly? Or is matching to the original holes a common way of mounting the new deck piece? Stick with chalk line, and make new holes?
Thanks for your comments!