How to bring the color back?

[humpbackshooter]

The color on my ski boat is not what it use to be. How do I go about getting it back to that showroom shine? Well, maybe not showroom, but maybe make it look better. It has like ghost runs in it. I'll take a few pics and post-em shortly. When the last time I wax, there was a few scratches in the gel coat. Is that right. Gel coat is the outside finish? Of course, there is some nicks / dings that cut into the fiber-glass that I know I won't get out. They will need some patch work. So I'll live with those now. Just trying to brighten up the color some.
1996 Maxum 1900 SR
Top half is a cream color
Bottom is a blue. Note: under the back ski platform, the color blue just pops. Has not faded.
Will some rubbing compound help or do I need to do something else?
Thanks in advance.
Hump

 

[gm280]

humpbackshooter, This question does crop up over time. And the honest answer really depends on how far gone your Gel Coat is. Some times a good rubbing compound can do the trick or even a good wet sanding with care. But far too many times it can never be brought back to a nice uniform color with a nice shine. In those case, you either have to use it like it is, or sand and paint with quality boat paint. That choice is yours. Do post some pictures though and others will see it and offer other suggestions to help you out... I myself have never worked on Gel Coat hulls and therefore can't lean a better idea... JMHO!

 

[Woodonglass]

If you really want to have a good shot at it you're gunna need one of these, what I call a Gel Coat Maintenance Kit...
This will help you understand how to use it...http://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/hull/how-buff-your-hull-right-way#.VaLqH_lViko



Harbor Freight less than $80 bucks. I like this stuff..http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/6...***-bt-pdf.pdf

 

[humpbackshooter]

No Title

I don't know if you can see it, but the on the blue there is some sort of white "ghost" in the finish. Its kinda looks like some type of run in the paint. If you are able to increase the size of the pic, you can see it.
Thanks,
Hump

 

[MTboatguy]

Actually it looks like age oxidation to me, which unfortunately is pretty common in boats more than a few years old and it shows up pretty good on the darker colors over time.

 

[humpbackshooter]

Woodonglass....I read that you was the "The Man" on the finish layer on boats. Thanks for your input. I have a obit polisher that I use on cars. Is that good for what you are talking about. Or is it too slow?
Hump

 

[humpbackshooter]

Thanks MTboatguy. The pic was taken with my cell phone. I'll try and get a pic with my camera, which is a lot better view. Oxidation....seems like it would be all over the boat and not is just a few places. Maybe I'm just not seeing it. I'll have to inspect more closely.
Hump.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmmm nope, you're gunna need a VS polisher as I described. The darker colors seem to always get that "Ghosting Haze" in them if you don't keep em polished with a good UV protectant on a regular basis. Just the nature of the beast!!! By the looks of it I'm pretty sure if you get the Polishing kit and you spend the time, you'll be able to bring her back to looking like she's "ShowRoom" Fresh.:rockon: Not sure about being "The Man" I'm just an Old Dumb Okie tryin to help when and where I can!!!:bounce:

 

[BevoHoward]

I've seen very good results from what Wood has suggested. When I did my truck, and it was real bad, I was so worried about swirl marks and my lack of skill I decided to buy a dual action (orbital) polisher and have never been sorry. I even did the windows on my truck and they came out flawless.

You'll need a white and orange pad and some medium compound and I just betcha you'll be in business. I also went to WM and picked up a bundle of microfiber towels for almost nothing. You'll need all of them

When I bought my 85 Sea Ray it had a haze to it. Not bad but you could see it hadn't seen polishing in years. I tried a section and it came out like new

I bought this polisher. http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424xp.html

 

[MTboatguy]

Thanks MTboatguy. The pic was taken with my cell phone. I'll try and get a pic with my camera, which is a lot better view. Oxidation....seems like it would be all over the boat and not is just a few places. Maybe I'm just not seeing it. I'll have to inspect more closely.
Hump.

I have seen many boats with just splotchy oxidation over the years, normally it is because they were not waxed evenly over the years and you get certain areas that will oxidize unevenly. That is why, when I owned gel coated glass boats, I used sprayed on wax and wipe system to protect the surface, when I lived in Hawaii, you could take a new boat and in a year you would be amazed out unevenly it oxidized.

 

[humpbackshooter]

When buffing this dude out, the area that is being buffed, will it get hot to the touch? If so, how much is heat is too much?

Woodonglass.........went down to "Harbor" and picked up those items. When is the pads used up?.....when they start to come apart? My orange pad is starting to show signs of the foam coming off around the edges.

Hump.

 

[further]

Hump, I just went through restoring the shine to my almost 20 year old neglected Chris Craft hull and my arms almost fell off. My hull was very oxidized and pin striping was all messed up so I removed all of the pin striping then wet sanded starting at 600, then 800, then 1000, then 1500, then did two rounds of 3M imperial compound, 1 round of 3M finesse it polish, and final paste wax. The general rule is to start out with the least agressive method that gives you the result you need so if starting with compound (using the buffer is a must) gets you there then you're lucky and your arms will thank you.

This is an example of what I was dealing with:


This is the almost finished result:




Really brought back the color and nearly took out all of the ghosting that the pin stripe removal caused. Looks so good I decided to not put back any striping. Now I'm a bit anal with it so I use a Marine 31 spray wax before I go out each time just to remove water spots and dirt, etc.
Good luck

 

[humpbackshooter]

Very nice!!!!! One could almost shave in that reflection! I see that you also taped off the chrome... to keep the chrome stuff out of the polish? I'm thinking of taking off my pin stripes too and the stripe that runs along the bottom of the hull. Still looking to see where I can get the replacement pin & bottom stripes ( In the color that I want.) My #'s are also in the way....so I might even take them off too. Got a week long vac. coming up in 2 wks......so some of this may have to come after we get back.

Hump

 

[SDSeville]

Make sure you tape off your fuel vent. I neglected to do that when I restored my paint and it made for an exciting fill-up the next time I took her out. The vent was completely clogged with hardened buffing and polishing compound, so after I had pumped a few gallons in, a nice 5 foot long geyser of fuel shot out the fill hole about 10 feet into the air. Luckily no one was behind me.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yes it WILL heat up so keep it moving. You DON'T want to burn the Gelcoat!!!! Do about a 3 sq ft area and keep the pad moving. You will need to wash and rinse it out on a regular basis You'll probably go thru 2 or 3 of the foam pads before you're done!!!

 

[further]

I used a wool compounding pad and a spur to clean it with. Didn't need to wash it at all. Used foam for the polish.

 

[humpbackshooter]

I'm have some of the "Meguiar's ultra-cut compound that seems to cake up. I have to pull some more on the pad and go over this area again. Is it because I'm letting it get to hot and dry? Sometimes I can go back over it and it come right off. Other times, it tuff and just shears. If so, I need to keep the pad and paste wet?
I'll try and post a pic soon.
Hump

 

[humpbackshooter]

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[humpbackshooter]

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Buffing it out really help!!!!!

 

[Woodonglass]

Looks like a New Boat!!!:sad: Congrats!!!