Re: How to lighten a tri hull??
This is something else that confuses me(got lots if that!).
If fiberglass is waterproof and all wood in the boat is glassed in, then why must it be marine grade wood?
If done correctly the wood should never see water correct?
It's not waterPROOF. So no, not correct. On a very minute scale it's porous. And like many products, if water is splashed on it, drains off & is allowed to dry, it will likely weather the water exposure quite well. When they are left exposed to (or submerged in) water long term thru several hot/cold or freeze thaw cycles many extremely water resistant materials break down. Flotation foam & wood encased in fiberglass suffer greatly when exposed to the elements & neglected.
Although in a perfect world we would all use marine plywood on our rebuilds, it's expensive, it's hard to find in some locations (I can't even get a lumber place to order it for me here) many of us choose to use a product that is as close as we can get: Auraco, MDO or ACX plywood. They are all made w/ quality lumber, relatively void free on both the face & more importantly on the interior laminates, readily available in most places AND are made w/ exterior glue.
You should assume at some point water WILL penetrate the fiberglass. When it does, you want to have done everything you can to prevent the wood from completely disintegrating QUICKLY. It's a heck of a lot of work doing what we do rebuilding fiberglass boats, you don't want to have to redo it again anytime soon. For $10-15/sheet more money you can use substantial products that will resist water intrusion.
Storing your boat correctly, covered, bow high & w/ the drain plug removed once your done w/ your build will help even more.