How to match a compressor with an HVLP paint gun

[Jonboat2Bassboat]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

That is a very interesting project. Will have to read the entire article. One question, how long does he leave the boat in the water? Mine is in for 6 months. Don't have the specifics of the Interlux paint and primer I looked up but both products will work below the waterline. 1 gal of paint and 4 quarts of paint would be $180. Not cheap but better than redoing the boat. Exactly what Pettit paint/ primer was used? Does the article cover that?

 

[bonz_d]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

I've been following this forum sense I joined and have seen many projects completed. Some of the paint jobs I've seen turn out spectacular, others well not so much. Through all of it I haven't been able to determine if it's the paint being used, the technic or the skill of the person doing the work.

I myself have been putting off a paint job for 2 seasons. Just have a fear of how it's going to finish out and the bigger holdup for me is trying to find a very close match to Lund red. Most seem to be too bright of a red.

In spite of my own fears many have posted some really fine work and I'd congratulate all of them. I'll keep reading and learning!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

That is a very interesting project. Will have to read the entire article. One question, how long does he leave the boat in the water? Mine is in for 6 months. Don't have the specifics of the Interlux paint and primer I looked up but both products will work below the waterline. 1 gal of paint and 4 quarts of paint would be $180. Not cheap but better than redoing the boat. Exactly what Pettit paint/ primer was used? Does the article cover that?

Yes, he goes over every aspect of the paint job. Products, Technique...Everything. This is copied from the PDS from Pettit...

" Easypoxy - Is a modern polyurethane topside and deck enamel improved by the addition of silicone for brilliant shine and easy brushability. It has ultraviolet filters which enhance the already superior gloss retention and durability of polyurethane.The result is a topside finish that’s exceptionally easy to apply, producing a lasting gelcoat-like brilliance with a minimum of effort. For a semi-gloss finish for deck sand interiors use 3106 Easypoxy Semi-Gloss White or simply add 9080 Easypoxy Satin Additive to any Easypoxy color for a custom satin look. Although not recommended for constant immersion, Easypoxy can be used on the bottoms of dry-sailed boats that will be in wate rno more than two days at a time. Allow the last coat of Easypoxy to dry a minimum of 7 days before launching when Easypoxy is used in this manner."

I believe, since you want to leave your boat at the dock for the season, you will have to go with the more expensive Marine Paints. The others are just not formulated for long term immersion. Adding the hardener, might alter this but I have not proof or experience to back this up. Almost all of the iBoaters using the Rustoleum, Implement Paint, or Pettit, have trailered their boats, so this was not an issue. I still encourage you to at least attempt the Roll n' Roll method to see the outstanding results that can be obtained using the technique, unless you just want to experience the Joys of Spraying Paint!

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

I've been following this forum sense I joined and have seen many projects completed. Some of the paint jobs I've seen turn out spectacular, others well not so much. Through all of it I haven't been able to determine if it's the paint being used, the technic or the skill of the person doing the work.

I'll keep reading and learning!

Its All of the above bonz .. You forgot the tools and materials in that equation. Some are Very expensive .. some are standard.

@ $90/hr your not gonna find too many pros working with HF tools. Just like mechanics that use Huffy tools or a tool set from HF.. they are not really mechs. A Good Spray gun can spray your cheapest paint better then a cheap gun spraying Top Line paint.

A good sprayer can use almost anything .. a good sprayer.

YD.

 

[Jonboat2Bassboat]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Thanks. I really do need a paint that will hold up below the waterline for 6 months. Have decided to spray the X-O Rust without hardener above the waterline and brush prime with Aquigard Primer #190 and top cote with Aquigard Alumi-Koat bottom paint below the waterline. The below waterline primer / paint will only add $70 to the project. Seems a safe way to go to ensure the below waterline paint will last.

Thanks for all the help from IBoats. Will post photos as the work progresses.

 

[Jonboat2Bassboat]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

The photo is the steering console and adjustable base painted today with Rust-Oleum Marine top cote. Had brush painted one coat of Rust-Oleum Marine primer last year. Thought by sanding out the brush marks with 220, spraying on a second coat of primer and two coats of color would have eliminated the brush marks but it didn't. The finish is OK but hope the boat comes out a little better.

 

[Jonboat2Bassboat]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Waiting for a good painting day so cut and carpeted the floor panel. Plan to roll and tip the Aquigard Primer #190 with a foam roller below the waterline and top cote that with Aquigard Alumi-Koat bottom paint, also roll and tip method. After that will mask off at the waterline and spray the X-O Rust color.

One question, is it best to use a foam brush or will a good bristle brush be better? The high density foam rollers say they are made to finish cabinets by "back-rolling" the finish that was brushed on. On a boat is it best to roll first and back brush or brush and back roll?

 

[sirket]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

I realize this is a little late but I saw your comment about using CPVC for an air line.

Unless specifically made for compressed gas usage- PVC and CPVC should never be used for compressed air lines. They become brittle over time and if they blow they tend to shatter and you get a lot of shrapnel traveling at high speeds.

PVC becomes brittle if:

1. It is too cold
2. It is exposed to UV light (i.e. the sun)
3. It is scratched
4. It is exposed to compressor oils
5. It is repeatedly pressurized and depressurized.

If PVC pipe carrying water fails, the water itself is incompressible so when the pressure is released, the water does not expand and so there is no shrapnel. When a PVC line filled with air fails, the pressure is released and the air expands at high speed. Because PVC shatters, rather than just cracking, you tend to get dangerous shrapnel. PVC with water under pressure is fine. PVC with air under pressure is dangerous.

ABS plastic, copper, PEX and black pipe are all fine for air lines. PVC really isn't.

Here is US plastics own page on the use of PVC:

http://www.usplastic.com/knowledgebase/article.aspx?contentkey=787

And here is the OSHA web page on the subject:

http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

Lots of people will tell you they used PVC in their garage with no problem. They may not have had a problem yet- but it doesn't change the fact that PVC can be very dangerous. If you are going to use it then please place a shroud over it.

Copper is the best choice for a spray line. The copper absorbs heat which helps cool the air and causes any moisture to condense out. It also does not corrode the way black pipe does. Copper is also very expensive, however, and there's nothing wrong with using one of the alternatives.

 

[Jonboat2Bassboat]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Thanks. Never too late for good advice. The older I get I realize more and more there are very few cheap ways to something AND do it right.

Except for UV exposure all conditions apply. PEX is doable. The tubing is inexpensive but the connectors add up fast. If copper, can the thinner copper typically used in forced hot water heating systems be used? Will price out the ABS and PEX too.

I realize this is a little late but I saw your comment about using CPVC for an air line.

Unless specifically made for compressed gas usage- PVC and CPVC should never be used for compressed air lines. They become brittle over time and if they blow they tend to shatter and you get a lot of shrapnel traveling at high speeds.

PVC becomes brittle if:

1. It is too cold
2. It is exposed to UV light (i.e. the sun)
3. It is scratched
4. It is exposed to compressor oils
5. It is repeatedly pressurized and depressurized.

If PVC pipe carrying water fails, the water itself is incompressible so when the pressure is released, the water does not expand and so there is no shrapnel. When a PVC line filled with air fails, the pressure is released and the air expands at high speed. Because PVC shatters, rather than just cracking, you tend to get dangerous shrapnel. PVC with water under pressure is fine. PVC with air under pressure is dangerous.

ABS plastic, copper, PEX and black pipe are all fine for air lines. PVC really isn't.

Here is US plastics own page on the use of PVC:

http://www.usplastic.com/knowledgebase/article.aspx?contentkey=787

And here is the OSHA web page on the subject:

http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

Lots of people will tell you they used PVC in their garage with no problem. They may not have had a problem yet- but it doesn't change the fact that PVC can be very dangerous. If you are going to use it then please place a shroud over it.

Copper is the best choice for a spray line. The copper absorbs heat which helps cool the air and causes any moisture to condense out. It also does not corrode the way black pipe does. Copper is also very expensive, however, and there's nothing wrong with using one of the alternatives.

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

You may want to check int Polypro tubing. its safe with air & used in industrial applications all the time for low cost & laboor lines that are flexible.

 

[Jonboat2Bassboat]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Help with roll & roll or roll & tip painting method. Did a search but could not find a specific article on "how to" paint using this method. If someong knows where vthis was covered under another project posting please let me know. had seen a very nice tutorial on these methods explaining to listn to the sound of your roller but can't find it now.

Other question is how to center a NFB Telex steering cable on a 2000 Yahama 40 HP outboard. Have the correct cable and helm. basic installation is no problem. Adjusting the steering wheel so it will be centered when your are going straight is. Heard there is no way to adjust the steering wheel so need tips on installing it so the steering wheel and motor are lined up .

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: How to match a compressor with an HVLP paint gun

Well here's a thought..a alum boat older probably a few nicks dings scratches and irregualarites. Perfection rolled correctly will only make them look worse...it is indeed beautiful on a mirrior flat finish and i do mean mirro...r but looks funny with its piano finish and dings..Unless your the body man from hell... which you might be... id stay with another paint..Here's some prep did with BrightSide's im not going to go into how many hours it took..:redface: And the finshed results.

..

All the refraction is gone but so are the imperfections due to its lack of
refraction

 

[Jonboat2Bassboat]

Re: How to match a compressor with an HVLP paint gun

Is this the boat I saw on YouTube? Great job!

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

here are a few links you may find of iterest

Http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Poor-Mans-Paint-Job-or...-How-to-paint-your-c/?ALLSTEPS

Http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

 

[sirket]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Except for UV exposure all conditions apply. PEX is doable. The tubing is inexpensive but the connectors add up fast. If copper, can the thinner copper typically used in forced hot water heating systems be used? Will price out the ABS and PEX too.

The nice thing about PEX is you need so many fewer connectors because the pipe itself can be flexible (at least on the smaller diameter lines).

As for copper- Schedule L or K are usually fine for air lines. M and DWV are too thin to be used. I went with copper because although is was expensive up front- it will also last a lifetime. I did it once and I never have to worry about it again. As I said though, you can use any of the above lines- ABS is as easy to work with as PVC but much safer.

The only reason I mention this is that I was in a friends garage a couple of minutes before a PVC air line blew. When we went back inside there were shards of PVC embedded in the sheetrock on the other side of the room. It gave me a whole new respect for the dangers of pressurized gasses.

 

[Jonboat2Bassboat]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Haven't priced out the PEX or ABS yet but will do. Got the PVC because it is rated for 600 PSI where the CPVC is only rated for something like 100, well above the 60 PSI for house water pressure but well below the 125 PSI needed for an air compressor. Thought the 600 PSI of the PVC would work well but guess not. Have not read the attached articles yet but will do so.

Here is a photo of the compressor set up.

 

[Jonboat2Bassboat]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Just applied the first coat of Aquagard 190 Marine Primer for below waterline use. Used the roll and tip method and did not thin the primer. It did not come out as smooth as expected. Used a high density 6" foam roller and a 3" "China Bristle" brush, what ever that means, made in the USA by Wooster.

At any rate got a lot of air bubbles rolling the primer on. The brush removed the air bubbles but showed a lot of brush marks. One mistake was to use a dry brush. After the job was done remembered to use a wet brush with very little primer on it. Hopefully the second coat of primer and two coats on bottom paint will be a little smoother.

 

[Jonboat2Bassboat]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

OK, here is the second coat of marine primer. Came out MUCH better but switched to a cheap foam brush. In my opinion, the "China Bristle" brush from Wooster was a waste of money. After cleaning the brush in soap and water, the ends splayed out like a cowlick on a kids hair. After two strokes on the second coat of primer switched to the foam brush. As I said MUCH better. Still have a lot of air bubbles with the high density foam roller but the foam brush takes care of that.

Photos are of the second coat of primer. Photos may not show how much better the second coat was but believe me, it provided full coverage. There are a few "brush" marks from the foam brush but for a bottom primer they are just fine. Will use this method when applying the two coats of bottom paint but will spray on the final coats of topside paint.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Now that you experimented a bit loose the foam brush...Use just one foam roller...roll out your paint for 1-2 minutes.....and exhaust all of the paint in the foam roller..Go back and reroll out all of the imperfection's with the same roller dont switch. You can do this only one time rerolling that is do not go back again a few minutes later. Now that's roll and reroll...learn from your mistake's...

It should take 3-4 layers to get to a final fisnish get better with each roll out...I ve read that article the last coat is the money shot and yes the paint should mix up like milk..Not 50% but 20...at this point you will know how the paint flow's and lay a coat that just wet's the surface no excess its very thin..and boom its done childs play..

 

[Jonboat2Bassboat]

Re: HVLP and paint additives

Re: HVLP and paint additives

First off, can you point me to the poll and re-roll article? I found a good posting once that talked about listening to the sound of rolling. Somehow the sound tells you if the paint is being applied correctly and when to stop rolling. Did a search but could not find it. My guess is the posting is a reply to someone asking about painting methods and not a separate posting with a heading like "How to roll and roll.

I still get air bubbles, a lot of small ones. If I re-roll with the same roller they will go away? Thought the article said to use two rollers, one for paint and one barely wet to re-roll with. Also I do remember to thin the paint but that was for color top side paint. I am applying bottom primer and paint. Applied it without thinning so maybe that causes the air bubbles.

So do you mean to load the roller with paint and roll it on until all the paint is off the roller, go back and forth over the same area? How large and area do you recommend to cover at a time?