How to measure...Swells?

[stunod]

Hi,<br />A few weeks ago I decided to do some ocean fishing and exited via "THE INLET" This "INLET" is moriches,LI,Ny and is very rough at times. Many people have died there in the past. There are a few ways to avoid these 6-8' Rough waves in moriches but on this particular morning I couldn't find one. Before I knew it, it was too late to turn back and I was forced to go through the 6-8' rips. <br /><br />My boat is a 21 'cuddy and most of the water that came crashing on to it, washed back off. I was getting flashbacks of the movie "The Perfect storm"<br />My girlfriend was screaming, my friend was praying and I had ten fingers imbedded into the steering wheel. We finally got thru it only to find out that the ocean had 4-5 ' swells out there. <br /><br />Strangely enough, 3 hours later the ocean calmed down and we had a great fishing day.<br /><br />Question: At what point do boaters say to themselves..." 4-5' chop today?..forget...I'm staying home. 3-4 chop Hmm? I'll go<br /><br />Thanks for listening,<br />Lou

 

[Reel Appeal]

Re: How to measure...Swells?

stunod,<br /> Thats a definite safety issue and running inlets with those wave heights can be dangerous.I have some first hand experience with this also.<br />The best way to avoid situations like you described is to note wind direction/speed,but more importantly,tidal flow.When the tide is outgoing(for example),and the wind is blowing on shore it creates the steepest waves.Try to plan your departures/arrivals to the inlet on the ebb/slack tide(low tide or high tide)if thats possible.This is a time where wave producing current is minimized and makes running the inlet safer/easier.Also,the moon phase affects the currents as well.A near or full moon increases tidal speed and usually includes extreme high or low tides.This situation will magnify as we go into fall/autumn,especially on the "harvest moon",so be very aware of this.<br />Exercise good judgement,use common sense,if you don't feel comfortable with the situation,do it another day.You have to asess your skills as the boat operater as well as the capabilities of the boat. You can head into the waves at a slight angle,although if you get broadside to them theres always the possibility of broaching(rolling).Taking them straight on needs constant throttle adjustments to keep from pitchpoling.If the waves are not breaking or cresting you can run parallel to them(but that wont take you in).<br />Running an inlet safely is best done at slack tide with little or no wind,and no full moon(although sometimes that does not matter either).Be safe and happy fishing.

 

[Ross J]

Re: How to measure...Swells?

Excellent advice given there sport!<br />I add only one thing - When the wind is against the tide, watch out! It makes things much worse over here anyway.<br />Ross

 

[Boatist]

Re: How to measure...Swells?

Out here in California best way to find swell info is to listen to the Wave guage reports from weather buoys. We have a buoy out 12 miles and 50 miles. This will give a good idea of weather out to sea. Our boat is a 20 foot Aluminum Runabout. In my case we stay in port if the seas are over 8 foot or less than 8 seconds apart and again we get that info from weather service Buoys brodcast on the weather channel or you can log on to the web and put in the buoy number and pull up hourly wave guage. <br />Running the inlet is another matter and here is where lot of experience pays off. We have about the same conditions outside the golden gate. Strong currents up to 4 mph shallow water and strong incoming winds 30 to 40 often.<br />Heading out not a big problem as can see breakers and conditions in time to decide to wait for a better tide. Coming in is a different matter as when riding the back of a swell you never see the breaker until you are in it. When it is bad will see a lot of boats waiting if it is not foggy. Usually also here some chatter on the radio but can be misleading. Will here lots of people say really not that bad, but wher it really is not that bad they will say it flat or really be talking about the fishing. Can also give the Coast Guard a call on 16 but they some times do not seem too happy. What I usually do is go to a port about 30 north and launch out of Bodega Bay Where the weather is a little rougher but have no current problems.

 

[stunod]

Re: How to measure...Swells?

Hi Again,<br /><br />Well I am going to take everyones advice.<br /> This Saturday, I going fishing and it seems that there will be a 15kt south wind with an outgoing tide on a full moon...So I think I'll pick another inlet that Has been known to be "safer" The marine forcast said 3-4 ' swells<br /><br />Is it the "height" of the swells to look out for, or the "distance apart" as "Boatist said ?

 

[Reel Appeal]

Re: How to measure...Swells?

stunod,<br /> I would have to say both,as pertaining to your question.In general,waves that are farther apart are usually less tall.There is more of a chance to pitchpole in these.Pitchpoling happens when you roll(surf) off the wave behind you and plow the bow of the boat into the wave ahead of you.The boat stops and the wave off the stern lifts the back of the boat,resulting in a pitchpole capsizing(flip).Waves that are closer together(steep) tend to be taller,with cresting or breaking whitecaps present.Sometimes you can pierce right thru these if there small enough.Other times,there's enough water coming down on the boat to damage it.Try never to get your boat broadside to these(roll).If you have to turn,try timing(in your mind)the waves and use throttle quickly before the next wave hits.Again,tidal flow speed plays a big part in the inlets.If you want more info on this subject,pick up a Chapman's,or a book on boat handling.Otherwise experience is the key.Good luck.... Have you ever seen the Coast Guard rollover training at Cape Disappointment?They train in an inlet out west somewhere.Forget which state. It's been on tv.Maybe there's a video?

 

[Boatist]

Re: How to measure...Swells?

Stunod<br />Both wave height and distance apart are important also wind speed. Most boat even small car tops could handel 10 foot seas every 20 sec. As the swells get farther apart the steepness is a lot less, so you just rise up slowly then fall slowly. However these conditions are not normal. Could get big seas far apart if have a very bad storm way out to sea and calm winds near shore. One thing to remenber big seas far apart are pretty safe out to sea but when get in shallow water or currents will still break sooner. Most times as the seas get higher they also get closer together. If you logon and check the weather service Wave Rider Buoys they will give you lots of info.<br />They will tell the steepness of the swells, swell, steep, very steep ect. When it get ruff slow down and plan you turns, use some power to turn in flat spots, never take a big swell broadside. Watch the sea many times you can drive around the steepest part of the swell if you look ahead. I think the most dangerous part is when riding big swell into shore. Very inportant to stay near the top of the swell so you can see ahead and see other boats rocks breakers ect. Out here when the swell get 8 feet usually running near 20 mph. Very inportant to stay on back side of the swell but high enough you can see over but never go over. This requires enough power to stay with the wave and constant speed adjustments. With time and experience you will get good at it, just pice the nicer days to learn on. Some thing as simple as not seeing a crab pot ahead in ruff conditions and getting the roap caught on your motor can be deadly. That why on my 20 foot boat we have set limits of 8 feet high or 8 sec apart it's time to head in. In 8 by 8 if the wind comes up to 30 or 40 mph like it does almost every summer afternood here in the Pacific the white caps appear and build right away. If the wind is blowing with the sea as usual swell will build if against some times will lay down but will still have the surface chop to deal with. Still all and all with the sun out no fog calm winds and flat sea's there is no better place on earth.