How to start?

[Muskiet]

I just got a 1957 5HP Sea King which is my first outboard motor.
The trouble is the "How to start" and "How to mix" placards on the back are worn enough so I cannot read them so I was wondering just how to start this engine since I also don't have a manual.
Particularly the "High" and "Low" settings intrigue me as I'm not sure what to do with them.

I think this engine has a 24:1 mix ratio for fuel/oil, but I'm not sure if I can simply use 2-stroke oil from Home Depot, the stuff I use for my trimmer?

I've cleaned the carb just to be sure as this engine sat still for about 11 years and I've got it sitting in a bucket full of water for cooling, please someone explain to me the details of starting this beauty.

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: How to start?

<Particularly the "High" and "Low" settings intrigue me as I'm not sure what to do with them.>

Leave them alone initially. If it starts and runs well continue to leave them alone. If not THEN you need to check your shop manual for initial settings and where to go from there.

<I think this engine has a 24:1 mix ratio for fuel/oil, but I'm not sure if I can simply use 2-stroke oil from Home Depot, the stuff I use for my trimmer?>

Probably won't hurt it but why not just get the right thing---TCW-3 oil for water-cooled outboards?

<I've cleaned the carb just to be sure as this engine sat still for about 11 years and I've got it sitting in a bucket full of water for cooling, please someone explain to me the details of starting this beauty.>

There's a lot more to a 'fuel system' than just the carb! You REALLY need to back up and review this thread:

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158086

 

[Muskiet]

Re: How to start?

<Particularly the "High" and "Low" settings intrigue me as I'm not sure what to do with them.>

Leave them alone initially. If it starts and runs well continue to leave them alone. If not THEN you need to check your shop manual for initial settings and where to go from there.

The problem is that first the person giving this thing to me moved them and later during carburetor disassembly and re-assembly I've moved them (it's almost impossible not to), so I'll have to re-adjust them anyways and I don't have a shop manual yet.
Right now both the "High" and the "Low" adjustments are fully closed since I figured this to be a good starting point.
I'd love to get the print of the "How to start" placard or to find an online picture.

<I think this engine has a 24:1 mix ratio for fuel/oil, but I'm not sure if I can simply use 2-stroke oil from Home Depot, the stuff I use for my trimmer?>

Probably won't hurt it but why not just get the right thing---TCW-3 oil for water-cooled outboards?

Thank you.
Just to be sure... am I right with the 24:1?

<I've cleaned the carb just to be sure as this engine sat still for about 11 years and I've got it sitting in a bucket full of water for cooling, please someone explain to me the details of starting this beauty.>

There's a lot more to a 'fuel system' than just the carb! You REALLY need to back up and review this thread:

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158086

Thank you again.
I've done some of the things on that thread.
I would like to make sure this thing starts before spending a lot of money on it though.

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: How to start?

<... am I right with the 24:1?>

Yes.

<I would like to make sure this thing starts before spending a lot of money on it though.>

I can readily sympathize with that, but acquiring a generic shop manual covers a lot of territory in making and maintaining future choices as well.

But you don't actually NEED to hear it run. If it has good compression---as determined by a known-to-be-accurate compression gauge test---there are only 2 other requirements---fuel and ignition. If the fuel system and magneto are present and complete they can be made to function if not currently viable.

If you just need to hear it bark to encourage your own enthusiasm to bring it back to life, well----I'm guilty of that at times. But I always check to see if I have good spark and if so I use an old Windex (or similar) bottle to spray a little pre-mix (NEVER use across the counter starting fluid!) directly into the cylinder thru the spark plug holes.

<The problem is that first the person giving this thing to me moved them and later during carburetor disassembly and re-assembly I've moved them (it's almost impossible not to), so I'll have to re-adjust them anyways and I don't have a shop manual yet.
Right now both the "High" and the "Low" adjustments are fully closed since I figured this to be a good starting point.>

File this for future reference: Before tearing down to clean OR attempting to run a strange motor ALWAYS seat the needle valves LIGHTLY and record the # of turns!
Since you provided no model # in order for anyone to pin down the exact Gale you have I am somewhat shooting in the dark-----
If the low & high speed needles are in the same vertical plane then 3/4 turn on each from LIGHTLY seated should suffice to start it. Adjust as needed.

GET A SHOP MANUAL! In my generic Intertec manual the 5 horse Gale/Sea King and clones are listed in the same chapter as the 5 1/2 horse Johnson & Evinrudes since they are so similar.

The ball is in your court----I'm heading to the shop!

 

[Muskiet]

Re: How to start?

Thank you again,
The model number would be GG8960A.

I've managed through your "Awakening..." link to find a position for both needles to start with (the adjustment FAQ is listed there) and at first I was still having no luck.
As the spark plugs didn't seem to get wet at all I sprayed some fuel directly into the cylinders and I got some puffs!
Doing this a second time actually seemed to have "awakened" the engine and I finally managed to get it started.
I had to keep the throttle open a bit to keep it running and it wouldn't rev very high but I'm attributing this to the fuel I threw into the tank (which also made it smoke a lot) so now that it seems to be able to run (both spark plugs were slightly fouled so both cylinders seem to be running) I'll order the book at Ken Cook Co. and I'll give the motor some TLC.
My plan is to have it running reliably and well maintained by summer next year so I've got some time

I did notice no water coming out the water exhaust so I'm gonna need a new water pump for sure

Greetings!

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: How to start?

<As the spark plugs didn't seem to get wet at all I sprayed some fuel directly into the cylinders and I got some puffs!
Doing this a second time actually seemed to have "awakened" the engine and I finally managed to get it started.>

Congratulations!

<I had to keep the throttle open a bit to keep it running and it wouldn't rev very high but I'm attributing this to the fuel I threw into the tank (which also made it smoke a lot) so now that it seems to be able to run (both spark plugs were slightly fouled so both cylinders seem to be running)>

It's common for an engine that has sat for years to smoke like a Peterbilt on a 12 degree grade until the old oil is consumed. Plus you may simply have had it far too rich.

<I'll order the book at Ken Cook Co. and I'll give the motor some TLC.
My plan is to have it running reliably and well maintained by summer next year so I've got some time >

Go ahead and order a steering wheel/harmonoc balancer puller so you can remove the flywheel properly. The only way to rehab the ignition is with flywheel removed. And if they weren't already replaced it WILL need new coils! I find it simpler---and easier in the long run---to remove the mag plate, strip it and degrease it and everything I intend to put back on it.

<I did notice no water coming out the water exhaust so I'm gonna need a new water pump for sure>

A new impeller will usually suffice unless the housing is badly pitted or worn out. Just don't run it again until you do that unless you want the frustration of trying to find all the pieces of a petrified impeller that lodged in the waterjackets and passages when it disintegrated.