How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

[stephentyler20]

Sorry for the low quality pic, I can take higher res if necessary.

This is my dash in its current state. I removed a black plastic/fiberglass piece that covered this whole thing, and which contained my gauges, buttons, etc. (pic of that on the bottom). Underneath was semi-finished gelcoat, with the gaping holes as you can see.

My goal is to "patch" everything up so I have a nice, flat surface, into which I can drill my new Teleflex gauges (circular gauges).

What you're looking at here: the top (forward) part is roughly 3/4" plywood covered with fiberglass. The face (aft) part, i.e. the part of the dash you look at, is fiberglass only (i.e. not plywood cored).

So what's the best way to create a flat surface in those areas? Should I somehow drill in plywood, then glass it over? And if so, how would I do that specifically? Should I just use mat fiberglass and poly resin? My thinking is if I can get the whole thing flush, I can then grind/sand everything down and regelcoat the entire thing for completion. I'd also like to close up the lower left hole, which originally had the ignition keyhole and a LED board. I'm just going to flush mount the ignition switch there.

Any other tips welcome!

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/stephentyler20/1988 210 Classic/boatdash.jpg

The original/stock setup (for the record, I'm replacing this whole thing so that I have nice new gauges that work, and a more "marine" feel).
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/stephentyler20/1988 210 Classic/SANY0162.jpg

 

[Bondo]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

Ayuh,... Gauges don't like being mounted through plywood,+ fiberglass,...
Neither do switches...
That's why most folks build a Panel, a thin 1, to cover Over those gaping holes...
Shiney aluminum, plastic, Whatever....
Getting a Smooth, Flat gelcoat face in there would be pretty much Impossible anyways...

Btw,... please Edit,+ reduce the size of the pictures to 480x640, the forum standards...

 

[stephentyler20]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

Ayuh,... Gauges don't like being mounted through plywood,+ fiberglass,...
Neither do switches...
That's why most folks build a Panel, a thin 1, to cover Over those gaping holes...
Shiney aluminum, plastic, Whatever....
Getting a Smooth, Flat gelcoat face in there would be pretty much Impossible anyways...

Btw,... please Edit,+ reduce the size of the pictures to 480x640, the forum standards...

Images resized... sorry.

That's a thought, but if I have a huge plastic piece there it won't look much different than the original. I'm sure there's a way I could achieve a smooth finish there, right? Can't I just glass in some plywood? Also why don't gauges like to be mounted in fiberglass or plywood? Incidentally, my current fuel gauge (which someone installed aftermarket when the OEM one failed) is installed through fiberglass, seems to work just fine.

Also, what's "Ayuh" mean? I see that all the time here!

 

[SBTOM]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

well the hard part is that you don't really have access to the back side there.

One idea: Use a router with a following bit to create a shelf in the existing plywood fiberglass. It should be about 1/8 deep. That will give you a surface to bond your patch panel to.

To create the patch panel:
Get a pane of glass. Wax it. Gel coat. A couple layers of CSM. Remove from the glass. Cut to fit the opening. You should have a nice smooth face surface. Depending on the type/thickness of glass, you probably wouldn't even need the wax.

For the part where there is no plywood. Cut strips of the patch panel material and slide those behind the dash face to create a similar flange. You would have to glass those on.

 

[stephentyler20]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

well the hard part is that you don't really have access to the back side there.

One idea: Use a router with a following bit to create a shelf in the existing plywood fiberglass. It should be about 1/8 deep. That will give you a surface to bond your patch panel to.

To create the patch panel:
Get a pane of glass. Wax it. Gel coat. A couple layers of CSM. Remove from the glass. Cut to fit the opening. You should have a nice smooth face surface. Depending on the type/thickness of glass, you probably wouldn't even need the wax.

I do have access!! The back panel in that picture unscrews from inside the cabin. Just hadn't gotten around to it yet, takes all of 45 seconds.

I'm not sure I'm 100% following you... So I'd create the fiberglass patch on the workbench, and then cut it to fit and install it in the opening? How would I bond it to the surrounding fiberglass?

For the part where there is no plywood. Cut strips of the patch panel material and slide those behind the dash face to create a similar flange. You would have to glass those on.

I think I see where you're going with this - how do I glass those pieces in? Fiberglass tape? This all seems quite complicated!

 

[SBTOM]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

sorry, I might need to draw a diagram to explain that one! You would be using a router to create a shelf that you could adhere the patch piece to. That way your patch would end up sitting flush with the existing dash. Theres no need to do that though if you can access the back of the dash though. You could just attach a smooth, mold released piece of material on the front and build up your patch from the back.

 

[stephentyler20]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

sorry, I might need to draw a diagram to explain that one! You would be using a router to create a shelf that you could adhere the patch piece to. That way your patch would end up sitting flush with the existing dash. Theres no need to do that though if you can access the back of the dash though. You could just attach a smooth, mold released piece of material on the front and build up your patch from the back.

OK. Is it possible to do that upside down? Because I'd pretty much have to if I'm going from the back.

And in that case, could I just do the whole thing in one fell swoop? It's hard to tell from the picture, but the two hole are at angles to one another - one is horizontal, the other is probably 70 degrees downward.

And again, how would I then finish the edges so that they're flush with the existing fiberglass on the outside?

 

[coastalcruiser]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

just wanted to suggest an easy way to make up a panel for your new guages.

In my case the new ones fit in the old holes, but if you look to the right i made up panels for the new speedometer and below that the new tilt guage by using 1/4 maple mdf core ply and a can of spray paint.

Maybe later on I will paint the existing panel since the black is not a perfect match but for now its fine...The holes used to be where the old shifter and tilt controls were. Now have a Volvo shifter with the tilt built in.

 

[stephentyler20]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

just wanted to suggest an easy way to make up a panel for your new guages
in my case the new ones fit in the old holes, but if you look to the right i made up panels for the new speedometer and below that the new tilt guage by using 1/4 maple mdf core ply and a can of spray paint
maybe later on paint the existing panel since the black is not a perfect match but for now its fine...the holes used to be where the old shifter and tilt controls were now have the volvo shifter with the tilt built in that came with my used package

That makes sense, but the problem is I still have that top part (which, in your boat, is fiberglass) to figure out. Even if I just make up a panel for the gauges, I have to deal with the portion above and forward of it!

 

[kilowatts]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

Hi Guys:
I had the same problem with my boat and solved it by making a backing plate, on which I mounted the gauges, from 1/4" black Starboard. It was easy to work with standard woodworking tools, completely inert and was attached with stainless screws and countersunk washers. Looks great.
Goos luck:
kilowatts

 

[coastalcruiser]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

sorry!
i took a closer look and see what you mean
for the top whatever you use let it overhang just a bit so that the instrument panel you make can fit underneath it

My idea for the top would be to either make up something out of ply and wrap it with some of the same white vinyl already in your boat
or
Make up something out of starboard as suggested

but the best thing imo would be to make it out of mahogany and use some spar varnish so it stands out.

 

[stephentyler20]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

Here's my new idea for this... I plugged up all the holes in the face with plywood (as pictured). I'm going to wrap the plywood in saran wrap, then wax the gelcoat with mold release. Then, I'm going to lay up a few layers of mat and cloth with resin (nothing crazy, just thick enough to be stiff). After it's cured, sand, fill, fair, etc. until I have a nice smooth part that I can paint or gelcoat. Then I'll remove the part, take out the plywood pieces, and either screw or hinge the part OVER my existing console, and install gauges, buttons, etc. into the part.

That way, I'll have a nice clean console, holding all my gauges the way i want them, and the whole thing could be hinged back (or unscrewed) for service as necessary.

Thoughts on that idea?

 

[coastalcruiser]

Re: How would you approach this dash? (pic inside)

think its a great idea!