hull cracks + fiberglass cover plz see pics

Evinrude Boater

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jul 6, 2004
Messages
1,144
Re: hull cracks + fiberglass cover plz see pics

I'm assuming the transom is more than two feet high so you'd have to buy 2 sheets of plywood. You motto is, "If I'm going to do it, I'll do it right". I think you should get two sheets of plywood and make some boxes out of the leftovers. Are boats that easy to come by in the DR that you can scrap this one?
 

floflodr

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 2, 2008
Messages
42
Re: hull cracks + fiberglass cover plz see pics

the boat actually cost me 2900 US with the 90 Hp 1990 envinrude engine.
it is really hard to find good boats around, i actually thought this one may be a good deal, but turned out it isnt that much of a good one.

as this is an island prices are not related to what you pay in the US, for example to bring an reasonable sized outboard you can easily add 1000us for shipping and taxes.

i dont even care anymore if its a good deal or not, im hooked and having lot of fun doing the restoration, when i will ever sell it i can probaly get about 7000-8000 us for it with trailer
 

redfury

Commander
Joined
Jul 16, 2006
Messages
2,657
Re: hull cracks + fiberglass cover plz see pics

You paid for the motor, not the boat anyway. The boat is a Bonus, if you want to call it that :D

Well, you've torn into it. Put on your gear and dig in! Having limited resources hasn't stopped other people from being able to make something out of nothing before, and you seem to have the drive to do the same...hurrah for you!

Many of us are in the same boat as you are ( pardon the pun! ). We are all limited on something...funds, material, access, workspace, knowledge, the ability to quit while we are ahead.....:lol: Doesn't matter as long as you are enjoying the ride.

It looks to me that the boat sits in the water most of the time correct? If that is the case, then the highest priority during your build more than anything is water tightness and resistance. Making the transom out of Plywood isn't the best possible choice considering, but if you play overkill on sealing it with some sort of epoxy sealer or the like, it will go a long way to preventing this from happening again. Any hole drilled in that transom for mounts should get a good soaking of sealer before anything is permanently mounted to it too. If you are vigilant about this, it will go along way. SeaCast is a great product from what I've read, but it is cost prohibitive. I'm looking at $500 just for the material to replace my transom according to the calculator worksheet they provide. I didn't pay that much for the boat and trailer!

If you have access to plywood made out of wood that is more resistant to rot, you are even better off. Marine grade plywood would be even better, due to the water resistant glues used vs. normal plywood, which can delaminate.

Is it me, or does this boat lack any kind of stringer system guys?
 

floflodr

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 2, 2008
Messages
42
Re: hull cracks + fiberglass cover plz see pics

the stringers came out together with the floor, they where very lose and came out easy.

i was actually telling the old owner to keep the engine and just give me the boat lol

so far i have found all materials needed, i just found the foam yesterday, plywood + fiberglass is available in big varieties.

i will go for the plywood transom as i have researched that the transom needs to be flexible to some point, and plywood will give it that certain flexibility.
i will also add some storage on both sides of the transom + improve the old splash well and hopefully eliminate 1 or 2 holes in the transom, which i believe are unnecessary.

even if available in the DR i would not consider seacast, because of the cost + efficiency wise does not give you any flexibly + lots of weight
 

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