Hull layup schedule??

[sparky774]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

Thanks guys i posted over on offshoreonly a week ago havent gotten a single response! Thank you all.

Another question just wondering about it... what is considered stronger? 24 oz roving or 17 oz biaxial?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

That's why this IS the #1 Boat Restoration Forum on the Internet. Boat University!!!
Biaxial is much stronger due to the weave of the cloth.

 

[oops!]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

Thanks guys i posted over on offshoreonly a week ago havent gotten a single response! Thank you all.

Another question just wondering about it... what is considered stronger? 24 oz roving or 17 oz biaxial?

its not that one is stronger than the other .... they are different tools for different jobs.

im your case.... i would use the 17 bi axe.... as the cross stitch will give more strength over the smaller area. with less epoxy resin pockets

 

[sparky774]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

So where would i want to use 24 oz roving compared to the biax

 

[deejay23]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

its not that one is stronger than the other .... they are different tools for different jobs.

im your case.... i would use the 17 bi axe.... as the cross stitch will give more strength over the smaller area. with less epoxy resin pockets

Hey oops your inbox is full and i'd like to discuss a boat issue directly with you.. sorry for the little aside in this thread, but i wasnt sure if you knew you private post was full... maybe you could get back to me when ya have a chance?

 

[oops!]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

So where would i want to use 24 oz roving compared to the biax

the big roving is kind of an out dated material.
this is due to the stregnth in the material being only in two directions where the bi axe or tri axe has strength in all directions.

it is also due to the large resin rich pockets created between the weave.... these pockets are not that much of an issue with epoxy... but if you use poly.... the 24 will almost allways de laminate if an impact occurs.

the best place to use the big woven now... is in an area where strength is not necessarily the issue..... but bulk is more if a factor.

dont get me wrong... the stuff is still major strong... however there are better tools for the job at the same cost.

cheers
oops

 

[oops!]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

Hey oops your inbox is full and i'd like to discuss a boat issue directly with you.. sorry for the little aside in this thread, but i wasnt sure if you knew you private post was full... maybe you could get back to me when ya have a chance?

its cleared now....go ahead

 

[sparky774]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

OK so the paint is not paint its actually gel coat, i have tried everything imagineable to get it out of the dimples and short of grinding the glass all down i cant get it out.

Any ideas? Can i just retab the stringers with some gel coat left in the bottom of the dimples.... really want to get this done so i can install the motor and do a shakedown before its too cold

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

Wash it all down well with acetone and tab it in. You'll be fine.

 

[pyrotek]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

The normal layup for this type of repair would be to wash the area down well with acetone and then apply a layer of 1.5 oz CSM followed by a layer of 1708 biaxial cloth and then continue alternating this until you reach the desired height. I'd say you would need not more than 2 layers of each.

I thought 1708 already has CSM in it. Why did you recommend alternating 1708 and CSM?

 

[oops!]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

I thought 1708 already has CSM in it. Why did you recommend alternating 1708 and CSM?

the layer of csm on the 1708 is very thin... a simple extra layer of csm is good insurance due to the hi ridges left on a cured 1708 weave.
you allways want as little resin as you can get.

to the op... those little dimples of gellcoat or flow coat will be right thru the big weave... get most of the specs.. but dont pull your hair out over it... by the time they are gone... so will the woven roving.
you will want to make sure that you have good glass on glass contact... that means only small gellcoat specs.
after the area is totally prepped by cleaning with acetone... use a 1.5 csm before you lay the 1708.

cheers
oops

 

[sparky774]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

the layer of csm on the 1708 is very thin... a simple extra layer of csm is good insurance due to the hi ridges left on a cured 1708 weave.
you allways want as little resin as you can get.

to the op... those little dimples of gellcoat or flow coat will be right thru the big weave... get most of the specs.. but dont pull your hair out over it... by the time they are gone... so will the woven roving.
you will want to make sure that you have good glass on glass contact... that means only small gellcoat specs.
after the area is totally prepped by cleaning with acetone... use a 1.5 csm before you lay the 1708.

cheers
oops

I should use a thin layer of csm even though im using epoxy? i have 17 oz biaxial on hand with no mat

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

Whoa...My BAD I forgot you're using epoxy. You don't need the 1708. You only need 17 oz biaxial cloth. You're fine, OOPS missed the part about you using epoxy.

 

[pyrotek]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

Sorry for the confusion. I asked based on a quote from WoG when he was referring to polyester. This was before he knew you were using epoxy.

 

[sparky774]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

Wash it all down well with acetone and tab it in. You'll be fine.

Thank you good sir, i ground the stringers bulkhead and transom today, tomorrow i will finish up the hard to reach areas with a die grinder and be ready to lay it in. I have been making this more difficult than it has to be, getting it done now though.

Thank you for the help

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Hull layup schedule??

Yeah, we ALL have a tendency to overthink and overplan and overengineer these things. Some times ya just gotta do like the Redneck says and jump in there and "GIT ER DUN!!!!!" I'm sure you'll do a great job and she'll be good or better than new when you're finished. Stick with it, you're gettin there!!!!