Hull painting question

[Hiwayman]

Hey all,

I'm fairly new to boating, and very green when it comes to restoring boats. This forum has been nothing short of a Butt-Saver at times. Now my question ...

I am redoing a 1970 Cobalt 18' tri-hull, and I'm wanting to repaint the bottom of the hull. My problem is, its a trailered rig, and kind of hard to access the entire bottom side. Should I just gut the thing and flip it over, or is there some type of supporting frame I could build to rest the hull on ? How do the rest of you do this ?

BTW ... It weighs 2100 lbs.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Hull painting question

Dave, I feel your pain. I plan to sand and paint my 16' speedboat, so I have been haveing the same thoughts. The easiest way is to remove the motor and windshield, controls etc and flip it. I'm much too lazy and do not have enough help to do that. Consequently I plan to build some supports for the bow eye and the jackplate in the stern. If I build them correctly, the entire bottom will be exposed. If I really get inspired, I will design them such that I can set the boat at a 45 degree angle and work on 1/2 the bottom at a time.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Hull painting question

Dave, One more thing, If you decide not to flip it over, you can put it on cemet blocks, and have open access to most of the bottom.

To do this, drop the trailer tongue to the ground, stack some cement blocks, bricks and wood in each rear corner of the transom, until it just touched the hull. Now jack up the trailer tongue, and the rear of the hull will be supported by the blocks. Get some more blocks ready for under the keel in the bow area. If you can hold the bow (two friends), you can pull out the trailer, and install the bow blocks. if not you will need to jack up the bow with a bottle jack and 2 by 6 to support and work the trailer out from under.

 

[Hiwayman]

Re: Hull painting question

Concrete blocks, eh ? never thought of that. I was thinking I would need to build some sort of elaboate framework with rollers and all, probably cost more than the boat did.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Hull painting question

My 25 foot 5000 pound boat gets jacked up on one side with a jack and a long 2x8x about 6 feet long. Crawl in there and get more blood on the trailer than paint (Ablative) on the hull, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

 

[andy6374]

Re: Hull painting question

An 18' 2100lbs boat. That's damm heavy.


Get yourself some boat stands (4 to be exact) and some 4x4's. Stack the 4x4's under the keel in the bow and stern. These support the boat. Now place the stands on the port and starboard sides at the bow and stern...these stabilize the boat.

Put a folded towel on top of the 4x4 that the hull is going to rest on for some cushion. Make sure to put a sheet of plywood under the legs of the boat stands to prevent them from sinking into the grass and also connect the legs with chains to prevent them from sliping out.

The first time you get the setup up and going it will cost some $$$, but then you will have it forever. Getting the boat off the trailer for the winter is VERY good for the springs and axel(s). You could also take the tires off and store them in your cellar.

 

[DJ]

Re: Hull painting question

Make sure that you put the supports where your trailer components are not. That way you can finish the job (small areas) when back on the trailer.

It's not that hard to do, just be careful, take your time and DO NOT get under anything until it is rock solid.

 

[drewpster]

Re: Hull painting question

The easiest, and quickest, way I have ever unloaded a boat off a trailer is with four automotive engine hoists (cherriepickers) and two 4 inch tow straps. Put two hoists on one side, and two on the other. Run the tow straps under the hull and hook each end of straps to the hook on each hoist. Lift each hoist equally until the boat lifts free of the trailer. Even with the hoist booms extended slightly they have enough lifting capacity. The average hoist capacity is two tons. 2100 lbs./4=525lbs. Make sure you extend the booms so that the trailer rolls out without hitting the hoist's legs, and done. I use 4x4s square stacked like Lincoln logs under the bow at the keel to support the bow and stands under the corners of the transom to support the stern.
Remember! You will be working under the load! Test your stands after you get the boat sitting on them! Leave the lifts in place long enough to give the boat a good shake by pushing on it while it sits on the stands. If the boat moves on your stands it is not safe enough to work under. If anything falls the lifts will catch it. The time for the boat to fall off the stands is while the lifts are in place. Not when you are lying under it!
Getting the hoists can be a challenge. Check all your local tool rental stores. They are bound to have at least one hoist. It may take some running around to find four hoists, but it is worth it.
Hint1: Don't stand the boat too high off the ground. Only leave enough space where you can reach the hull bottom with your arms slightly bent while lying on your back. It is much easier to do all that sanding lying flat.
Hint2: Support your outdrive. If you have to tilt your engine or outdrive to get enough space under the boat, rest the outdrive on its own stand. This saves the seals in the tilt/trim cylinders and takes strain off the transom.
Hint3: Lighten the load. Take the gear out of the boat before starting the process. All the water toys, anchors, fishing poles, PFDs, beer cans.....ect. add up.
Hint4: Get protective gear. You need a jumpsuit, safety goggles and respirator. Sanding overhead means dust in face, in hair, in eyes, in ears, get the picture?
I know this seems like allot, but unless you are working on a fairly light boat, flipping the boat can be allot more work. The hoists save time and are much less dangerous than trying to flip a ton of weight.

my project click here and scroll down:
http://s136.photobucket.com/albums/q187/drewpster/