hydraulic actuator

[fibersport]

I have a Magnum Trailer which is a semi-custom trailer under my 84 Century Coronado, probably close to 5000 pounds or so. The current hydraulic actuator is an Attwood and not only needs all new internals but is also a bit bent where the actual coupler is. This unit is welded to the trailer so I will have to cut it out and weld in a new one. There is no real reason to stay with Attwood or any other brand, I would like some suggestions on which brand to go with. I have a Titan on my other boat trailer and it works just fine, the Attwood looks like a massive brute next to the Titan even though they are both rated the same. The Magnum trailer is a tandem with drum brakes on both axles, the Titan is on a single axle with discs (which requires the backing solenoid and wiring to back up lights). Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[Scott Danforth]

get whatever brand you want. they are all a hitch coupler connected to a small master cylinder with a reservoir coupled together with a small shock absorber and manufactured with the bare minimim that it takes to sell the product at a maximum profit.

I agree the Attwood actuator is huge. my last trailer had attwood, my current trailer is UFP. however only you can determine what is best for you.

 

[bruceb58]

Just stay away from TieDown. Titan seems to be easier to get parts for in my experience. I have worked on both UFP and Titans.

 

[wrvond]

My tandem axle has a Titan 12500 pound bolt on. The braking would likely be a bit aggressive for your load, but you might consider the 8000 pound bolt on unit since your original bent.

 

[thumpar]

My old actuator was an Attwood 5000lbs that was welded on. The tongue is removable with 2 pins. I had a friend cut the old one off extend, the tongue and install a 7500lbs bolt on Attwood actuator.

 

[89retta]

How much did you extend the tongue ?

 

[thumpar]

3' because of the ramps around here. It had to be redone anyway because it was welded on. I just had him use a longer tube.

 

[fibersport]

Thanks for all the replies, looks like none of them are any better or worse than another.

 

[bruceb58]

Thanks for all the replies, looks like none of them are any better or worse than another.

Except for TieDown which you want to stay away from.

 

[Scott06]

I have a set of tie downs that have worked flawlessly. Yes they are cheaper but they have worked well for me.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Atwood has rebuild parts for their actuators, there really isn't much to them. Rebuilding may save you the trouble of using a blue wrench to get the weld on coupler off. I bought tiedown drum brake backer plates and the quality looked better than oem EZ Loader, which I think was Atwood. I guess time will tell, but the price was right. Much cheaper than the Dexter backer plates I bought for my enclosed trailer, and other than the tiedown being galvanized they looked identical. I'm not familiar with their couplers so I would take the advise of the others that posted previously.

 

[thumpar]

It was cheaper for me to buy a new actuator and have someone do it the way I wanted than the parts to rebuild my old Attwood.

 

[fibersport]

I had thought about replacing the parts but it would be cheaper to buy a whole one, if mine weren't bent that's what I would do. I would rather not try to straighten the original one so replacement is the only option. I'm leaning towards keeping it original and going with the Attwood but I'm not in any hurry as the boat needs a total rebuild first.

 

[Dave-R]

X2 on the Tie down actuators. I had to replace at least four in the last few years. I'd say any brand but them. Dave-R

 

[frantically relaxing]

Do yourself a favor and do what I just did a month ago: just change over to electric brakes. 12" 5000# rated drum kits with auto adjusters are less than $50 per spindle, 10" 3500#'ers are less than $40 each. An actuator, plug & wiring will run $150 or so. When you're done, you'll have brakes that work, adjust themselves, are immune to being dunked in the lake, and that YOU have total control over. Not a tough changeover...

 

[bruceb58]

Or do what I did and switch to Kodiak disc brakes. I wouldn't put drum brakes of any type on.

 

[fibersport]

Both possible and good suggestions. The electric would be ok except I like the ability to hook it up to any of my current vehicles, none of which have a controller. I work for a commuter railroad and our latest train cars have electric over pneumatic, some very good positives with that system but when it has problems, they are nightmares to fix. I like the simplicity of surge despite the control of electric. As for the disc brakes, I've had problems with the ones on my other trailer, I think either drum or disc, there can be problems with both. Honestly I haven't even pulled a drum to see what condition they are in, I've got a few years till the boat is finished but if the drums are shot, a change to disc and the correct actuator would be best done at the same time.

 

[frantically relaxing]

Never had disc brakes on a trailer, but I still have to wonder how long before the pistons start seizing. Probably much more immune than typical drum type cylinders. An electric over hydraulic disc system was on my wish list but at well over $1000 extra, for a boat I won't be towing all that much anyway, I figure drums on all 6 wheels should stop 'er fine.

Surge brakes are simple, but go back and look close at the brake shoes on the original brake setup I took off- 13 year old brakes and the shoes are literally brand new. I wonder if they EVER worked?

One of the MAJOR reasons I'm switching to electric is because of a scare coming home from vacation 3 years ago, towing our 26' Chaparral with our 40' Diesel motorhome. Coming out of Provo Canyon, the last 12 miles or so is ALL downhill. Down the canyon, tapping the brakes to slow down, then all downhill thru town with several red lights. I'm very prudent with braking, I start braking early and I pump the brakes so they don't get too hot. And for what it's worth, the surge brakes on the Chap worked wonderfully. But- surge brakes aren't worth a tinkers dam if the tow vehicle decides IT doesn't want to stop! All the red lights and stop signs on the hills took it's toll on the MH brakes, and with no warning at the umpteenth stop sign, I was almost standing on the air-brakes hoping to not blow thru the stop sign. It did stop okay, but that was a nerve-wracking 10 seconds!

Even though the trailer brakes were working, gravity and inertia were working harder. When I got out to check, the MH brakes were plenty warm. But the hubs on the Chap weren't hot at all.

With electric, you can apply the trailer brakes any time you need to...

 

[bruceb58]

I have electric/hydraulic with disks on my Wellcraft...best of both worlds. Most bigger 5th wheels went away form electric drums and now use disks with these.

They are not $1000...http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brak.../T4813100.html

My parents triple axle 5th wheel trailer had many magnet failures over the years. They used to carry a bunch of them on their trip so they could change them out. Not good!

When the crappy drum brakes go out on my pontoon trailer, I have a set of Kodiak disks ready to go on.

 

[dingbat]

Never had disc brakes on a trailer, but I still have to wonder how long before the pistons start seizing. Probably much more immune than typical drum type cylinders.

I have kodiak disc with 7 years of saltwater use. No piston problems at all but need to pull the caliper slides to clean and lube annually.