Hydraulic surge brakes, Should I junk them and go electric?

MRS

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2005
Messages
2,579
my 2 c. why junk surge... less apt to fail due to electrical short... ive only had surge.. ive got 2200 lbs of toon and motor sitting on a new tandem Shorlandr with 4 surge breaks.. gtw 5500lb capable.. works perfectly for me

Yes new is great I also have a tandem trailer with a pontoon on it with surge brake setup works wonderful now. But give it five or so years things will start to happen.:mad-new:
 

Starcraft5834

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
1,677
Yes new is great I also have a tandem trailer with a pontoon on it with surge brake setup works wonderful now. But give it five or so years things will start to happen.:mad-new:

probably... electrical corrosion and failure wont be one of them
 

76SeaRay

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Messages
1,071
I have electric brakes on my equipment trailer and surge brakes on my boat trailer. I use both all the time and they both work just fine if you maintain them which poor maintenance is the reason either type can fail. The biggest old issue with surge was when you tried to back up an incline then the brakes would fight you. As I mentioned in my earlier post, there are new surge back backing plates and assemblies that do not engage when in reverse. The clunking you mentioned comes from the being worn out or out of fluid typically.

So, just to clarify on electric brakes. The wiring on electric brake assemblies goes into a sealed coil (note sealed coil and this is reqular wire that does not burn out like a light bulb) that creates a magnetic field to actuate the brakes. The area for concern is where you connect the wiring to the brake wires at the wheel. As someone mentioned above, use the connectors with the adhesive sealant inside them to make sure the water doesn't get to the bar wire, they won't short out but will corrode if water gets to them. If you go with electric brakes, make sure you run an extra ground wire in your wire harness for the trailer chassis (good idea even for your trailer lights) and don't rely upon a ground through the trailer hitch ball. In operation, you will set your brake controller with the boat on the trailer but remember once you unload your boat, you need to back off on the controller otherwise your tires will likely lock up when stopping with the trailer empty. Surge brakes engage at a rate due to the load so a light trailer without boat sets up less quickly and hard than when it is loaded.

Do I have a preference? Yes, electric brakes but being an electrical engineer, I prefer to minimize wires in water to avoid the inevitable corrosion that eventually seems to creep in.... Also, I can tow my boat with another vehicle without having to put a controller in the other vehicle although probably not legal to do that and I don't normally. So, one more thing, I believe most, if not all states, require all wheels on a trailer that touch the ground must have brakes on every wheel. Something to consider if you are doing a new set of brakes on multiple axle trailers.
 

poconojoe

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,966
Thanks for all the responses. I got it all together, but haven't adjusted or tested the electric brakes yet. I'll get back with a report when I get it all adjusted and tested.

I removed the old hydraulic brake assemblies, brake lines and capped off the master cylinder output port. My coupler has a lever for reverse lock-out, so I flipped that and hope that will keep it from moving and stop the clunking sound when starting and stopping the truck. Worse scenario, I'll hit it with the welder or I like the suggestion of replacing the coupler, I'll look into that.

Installed the new self adjusting electric brake assemblies. Using the old flexible hydraulic brake line as a drag, I snaked 10 gauge wire through the frame from the coupler back to the axle. I tried those weatherproof heat shrink butt connectors with integrated solder. At first I didn't trust them, but after practice they were actually ok. I cut one open and the solder did indeed spread well within the strands of wire.

I had to add a battery backed breakaway unit which is pretty cool because it maintains the charge of it's battery via the truck's 12 volt power.

I also had to change to a 7 pin cable. I opted for one that came with a junction box which worked out great for all the terminations. One complaint though...the wiring configuration didn't match my Chevy Silverado or my trailer. Before I installed it, I checked it out with my multimeter audible continuity and found the wire colors were wrong. Only one was correct, the blue for the brakes. I'm not sure, but there might be different wire configurations for RV or trailer use, that might explain it.
Hope this all helps others that wish to go this route. And as I said, I will report back on the performance.
 
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