I can't believe I bought a fried motor

[Idaho gt150]

I'll spare you guys the dirty details. Because, I'm really ticked that I got caught up in the moment. I truly believe the most honest person will lie their butt off to sell a boat. So this motor is a 1976 85hp evinrude 85693g w/cooked piston. Thank goodness I ended up with motor control (omc) looks like I can sell that along with lower unit on eBay. Before I dump this on someone else, I'd like to do a pressure test on the lower unit. Do I purchase a tool for this or do I make one up? Also anything else I should pull off this motor? Prop is ss but no brand or numbers on it. Thanks to all of you for helping. I don't post much but I've been lurking for about a year. I should have known better then to give any money without doing a compression test.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: I can't believe I bought a fried motor

When checking for potential leaks in lower units, it's good to do two tests, a pressure and a vacuum test. Their tests require that the gearcase hold both vacuum and pressure for so many minutes to insure that the case won't leak. You may want to have a marine shop do that for you. Remove the lower unit and take it to them.

 

[jasper60103]

Re: I can't believe I bought a fried motor

Yea, don't beat yourself up too bad. It's always a gamble in the used motor game. The good news is someone needs/wants those parts. I had a motor like that a couple years ago. I traded for the rig I have now. A guy wanted it for a project to do with his son, so it worked out for both of us.

 

[DJ]

Re: I can't believe I bought a fried motor

That engine has a rather rare power tilt unit on it. That may be worth what you paid for the engine.

The last engine I parted out (ebay) was a 1988 Johnson 60. I broke even.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: I can't believe I bought a fried motor

Pull the entire ignition/electrical system (stator and wire harness) and post it separately. Flywheel (separate). Carbs (separately as a set). Manifold & reeds (separately as a set). Crankshaft (separately), Conencting rods (separately)
transom bracket with tilt&trim (sep), head & water cover (sep) upper housing, (sep), comlete lower unit minus prop (sep) finally the prop. Post everything on E-bay and/or Craigs list. Do the research to see what this stuff is currently selling for.

 

[Idaho gt150]

Re: I can't believe I bought a fried motor

Thanks guys, I'm only into this thing for $250. It's just the point that I jumped in before I did all the tests that I knew I needed to do. At the least I see that it's pretty profitable parting out these things out. Love the evinrude compared to my chysler. Couldn't believe I was able to pull head off without breaking 5 bolts. So I'm still in the market for another Rude. I'm thinking a little newer, around 79 an up.

 

[metriccrescentwrench]

Re: I can't believe I bought a fried motor

I'm only into this thing for $250

You're probably going to end up making money. I wish my bad decisions would work out that well.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: I can't believe I bought a fried motor

Does your '76 have power Tnt? If so, that's worth $400 by itself if it works.

 

[Idaho gt150]

Re: I can't believe I bought a fried motor

(You're probably going to end up making money. I wish my bad decisions would work out that well)

I just want a 85hp evinrude. Or a 88 hp

 

[DJ]

Re: I can't believe I bought a fried motor

The 85's were 89 cid engines. The 88's and up were 99.6 cid.

IMHO, the 85's were some of the sweetest engines ever developed. The 99.6 cid blocks were close but not quite. The extra cubic inches took some of the sweet idle out of that block.

However, the 99.6 cid's came around when when "prop rating" vs. crank rating came into play (circa 1983).

At best, an old 85 is 75 HP at the prop. A 90 (99.6 cid) is indeed 90, at the prop.