I cant get this throttle set up properly. Please advise.

[timmyjane]

The 2 photos show the cable adjusted at the approximate half way point. You can see that in neutral the stop is not touching the block and the roller is not back on the low cam mark. Confirmed that butterflies are not fully closed. Not the idle stop screw is all the way in making this the highest idle possible and still can’t touch the block.


The second pic shows that at full throttle we do not hit the throttle stop bolt and the butterflies can still open further.

Cable adjustments to either side of the middle position alter either idle or wot position. One way pushes closer to closed idle. Adjusting the other way pushed the butterflies closer to horizontal at WOT but makes the idle gap larger.

 

[timmyjane]

Do any of these components change their final position when the motor is running?

 

[timmyjane]

One of the other variables is the slack that is in the cable. The black end has slack that allows an amount of play. This play comes into effect at each of the end point positions. If you take all the slack out to pull the valves closed at neutral the slack allows the cable to be pushed in limiting the throw at WOT.

 

[tphoyt]

Not saying it’s your problem but cables that are too long will be difficult to adjust. Do you have any excessive loops in your 24’ cables?

 

[timmyjane]

Well, they are not in their final position but I expect to have one 360 loop. 18’ was much too short.

 

[racerone]

This should be simple to set up.----Trip to a boat shop is in order.----Making a multitude of ---" lets try this "--- adjustments can lead to expensive repairs later.

 

[tphoyt]

Well for me there are is need for loops but I do see it lot and it does work I guess.
I’m thinking you need to start from scratch at the motor. Cables not hooked up and do everything methodically and in order from link and sync on. Don’t skip any steps and close enough is not ok.
Best

 

[timmyjane]

This should be simple to set up.----Trip to a boat shop is in order.----Making a multitude of ---" lets try this "--- adjustments can lead to expensive repairs later.

I agree. Should be simple. No boat shops want to work on an old motor. I’ve called a couple. They’ve basically said “No”.

 

[racerone]

Age of a motor has nothing to do with simple adjustment job like this.-----Your location?

 

[timmyjane]

Well for me there are is need for loops but I do see it lot and it does work I guess.
I’m thinking you need to start from scratch at the motor. Cables not hooked up and do everything methodically and in order from link and sync on. Don’t skip any steps and close enough is not ok.
Best

Motor put in a barrel so I could get back pressure.
I started from the beginning. Made sure the cable is in a good position and all slack is out. 1 loop in the cable. It’s at a good radius.

Followed the procedure from start to finish as documented in this thread.

1975 115 Evinrude Timing Procedure Joe Reeves?

Ok i hate to post this, but I going to try and set the timing on my old girl here, and i have searched and searched and searched and have seen a lot of people pointing to the top secret files to the Joe Reeves procedure, which I have reviewed and plan to follow this process but I find it a...

forums.iboats.com

Idle is good. Idle set with motor in gear. Pickup timing is 5°. Full advance timing 28°.
Cam marks align with the roller.

Throttle cable reinstalled with throttle at neutral. Did not get valves to full horizontal. Going back to neutral the arm did not put the stop back against the block.

Made different adjustments.
1st picture:
Adjusted cable barrel to allow for full horizontal on the butterflies at WOT. This photo is the placement when back at neutral.

2nd-4th pics:
While in the previously placed neutral position I used the barrel to bring the idle stop back against the block. These photos show the position at full throttle. Valves not horizontal.

5th pic is the idle stop position when returning back to neutral. Again not back against the block although significantly closer.

 

[timmyjane]

Age of a motor has nothing to do with simple adjustment job like this.-----Your location?

Greenville, SC area.

 

[racerone]

Remove cables-----Shifter cable is the first one that moves.----Measure total travel of throttle cable from idle to full throttle..----Measure total travel needed on motor linkages from idle to full throttle.----Post what you find

 

[jimmbo]

That would be one of the Adjustments for the Spark to Carb Sync. I thought you said you were using a Service Manual?

 

[flyingscott]

I am assuming you picked up that I was setting the time using the Joe Reeves method that calls for 4° less than book value. To be clear, I don’t know squat about outboards so I’m not questioning you just ensuring you have the proper info. You say 28 I’ll go 28.

I’m going to get a barrel to operate this in. Maybe that will help too.

I forget what pitch it is. I took it to a pro shop to clean up. They felt like it was a good fit.

I didn’t realize till the other day that I have a long shaft. Really needed a short. Luckily people seem to just give these old OMCs away. Hoping I can get a different lower sometime.

Thanks for the advice so far. I’ll report back after tomorrow’s good times.

Joe reeves method requires you subtract 4 degrees. Do not deviate from that. You do not care about idle timing at all. Idle speed will be set in the lake in gear and warm.

 

[timmyjane]

Remove cables-----Shifter cable is the first one that moves.----Measure total travel of throttle cable from idle to full throttle..----Measure total travel needed on motor linkages from idle to full throttle.----Post what you find

Approx 2.6” on cable movement and 2.3 needed for linkage. The 2.6 is without any pressures. There is some slop in the ends. They can stretch and compress. I feel like that’s the case with all cables. I verified that the other set of shorter cables I have also has slop in the end.

 

[timmyjane]

Joe reeves method requires you subtract 4 degrees. Do not deviate from that. You do not care about idle timing at all. Idle speed will be set in the lake in gear and warm.

Roger. I’ll put it back to 24°.

 

[timmyjane]

I checked the control box. I found that the fast idle arm was loose. It apparently had been put in a little cockeyed at some point and the alignment tabs had slipped into place allowing some movement. I hoped that was the problem. It was not.
On a good note the arm does work very well. She idles up nicely when actuating the lever.

 

[timmyjane]

That would be one of the Adjustments for the Spark to Carb Sync. I thought you said you were using a Service Manual?

Yes I have this manual.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[jimmbo]

That, can explain a lot of the problem. If it were an actual Book, it would belong in the Outhouse, and not for reading.
In the section regarding the Link and Sync, While some of the Basics are correct, it is making references and showing images of what to adjust on other motors, which aren't the same as yours.
On your pic that show the Linkages, point out which screws/nuts/bolts, that you have adjusted?

 

[timmyjane]

That, can explain a lot of the problem. If it were an actual Book, it would belong in the Outhouse, and not for reading.
In the section regarding the Link and Sync, While some of the Basics are correct, it is making references and showing images of what to adjust on other motors, which aren't the same as yours.
On your pic that show the Linkages, point out which screws/nuts/bolts, that you have adjusted?

I’d agree. That book is tough to follow.
Luckily there is a plethora of information on YouTube and the forums to supplement.

I’ve pretty much touched ever single bolt on this motor as part of this boat refurbishment.
I entirely rebuilt a 76. Then got a tilt trim unit. The tilt trim wouldn’t fit the 76 so I got a good deal on this 78 that would accept the tilt trim unit.

While I had the motor in the garage I rebuilt carbs and installed new reed valves. Also new fuel pump and hoses. Fixed up a few chaffed wires. Normal stuff like that. Rebuilt the lower unit completely. New seals and o-rings.

We are kinda at the end of this project and have run into this aggravating issue.

Related to this throttle set up phase I’d guess I’ve touched every bolt that makes up the throttle and timing system. I even took the spring out of the arm to make sure it wasn’t damaged in some way making a bind. Pic attached.

I think I’m nearing the point and putting it back on the water and seeing how it goes. It seems like worst case here, since I can’t choose to keep it at a high RPM neutral, is going to be that I don’t get full power at WOT since the butterflies will restrict the air some.

Maybe I’ll win a raffle or something and a new 4 stroke Yamaha will fall into my lap.