I didn't want to restore this 1997 Islander this summer

redneck joe

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Nothing is soft or wet on the transom plywood. I have some remnant glass and epoxy resin from another project; is it terrible if I sand this down, glass it, and reuse it?
I'm just repainting mine. There is a max on overall thickness but when I had mine done thy did a layer on the hole.
 

Fj40fiji

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I got a stainless cup brush and went over the transom inside and out where there was visible corrosion, it didn’t get every deep pit clean but took off a bunch. In the morning I’ll hit it with Starbright ultimate aluminum cleaner, a small wire brush, and a scotch brite pad and start in to marinetex. Then make a pattern and cut a panel to laminate in from this sheet of .090” 5052 my very good friend picked up for me today.
 

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Fj40fiji

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Pattern making this morning:
I used to do finish carpentry and was taught to use the tool your math teacher called a compass instead as a scribe. It is the best tool I know for off setting a shape onto a board or template and it’s how we made things like base boards or crown molding fit perfectly when room corners weren’t square and we couldn’t use filler.
I’m making baby steps on this giant piece of cardboard one of my aluminum sheets came packed with, sneaking up on the right shape- hope fully. I can always tape it back together and keep going if needed, your template doesn’t have to be one piece. If you’ve never seen someone make templates for granite counters to be fabricated from, check that out for ideas.
 

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Fj40fiji

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This is how I measure how far I want to move my template where it fits or hits:
 

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Fj40fiji

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I have about 6” of cardboard still sticking up above the transom, so I can keep taking little bits off and moving it down till it fits. This will take about 4-5 iterations probably to get just where I want it.
 

Fj40fiji

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When I’m done my template will be about the outside of the radius where the transom is folded into it’s seam, when I transfer it onto the aluminum I can use the same method to mark a consistent distance inside the template so my lamination ends at the inside of the bend radius- 🤞
 

Fj40fiji

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One very important thing to know about scribing: the piece you are making will only go into the joint or corner or whatever in one direction, meaning it’s not going to spread out and fill the space: imagine a line connecting the scribe point and pencil, the line has to stay perpendicular to the direction your work piece is going to slide in from, so in the case I have to keep it vertical when I scribe the sides and keep getting my measurement from the low point at the drain bung and I can’t rotate the tool, that point-point line stays as vertical as I can manage the whole time, and then my template and eventually my lamination will drop in from the top.
 

Fj40fiji

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With bottom set down I marked the sides from the other side of the cardboard, this will not be the right dimension, but gives me a margin to cut away and get closer. I can also scribe off that edge since it’s the right shape.
 

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Fj40fiji

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By the way, I paid $180 for a sheet of .090” 5052. I got quotes as high as $230 for a sheet of .080”. This is to expensive and to critical to waste material so in case anyone else needed to make a template and had no approach I thought I’d throw mine out there as one viable method. Someone will probably respond with a better one, but this approach just requires scissors and a $3 compass/ scribe which you might be able to scrounge from your kid’s back pack for the weekend.
 

Fj40fiji

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I guess with this template and material I’m just a buck away from fabricating a new transom. And with the old transom wood, which is solid but I decided to replace with one 1/8” thinner to try not to interfere with engine-drive alignment due to laminating this sheet in, I could make a reversible half buck. I’ve never tried to hammer a shape into material this thick though, and there is a lot of shrinking that’d have to happen in the radiuses. I also dread the thought of the riveting experience that’d follow in the unlikely event I succeeded at forming it.
 

Fj40fiji

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In case anyone reading this wishes they had room for this kind of project:
I also wish I had room for this kind of project.
Setting up to cut transom overlay panel, using old transom board and saw horses.
 

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Fj40fiji

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Test fit: needs a little clearance at one of the other patches I already put in!
 

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redneck joe

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In case anyone reading this wishes they had room for this kind of project:
I also wish I had room for this kind of project.
Setting up to cut transom overlay panel, using old transom board and saw horses.
My wife's car has not seen the inside of a garage in about five years.
 

Fj40fiji

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The lowest 6-8” of wood in my transom looked dark and kind of wet when I took it out. Turns out that part is the best preserved. I think someone leaked motor oil or something on it. The surface is smooth, no checks or cracks like the rest of it. Even the edge of the plywood is smoothest and tightest where it had oil in it. Hopefully all the linseed oil in OTF gives a similar result.
 

Fj40fiji

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I wire wheeled and acid etched till I had these little white specks of corrosion left that wouldn’t come off. I decided to use the tip of a drill and just turn each into a little dimple. Many of them made a little cloud of white dust as veins of corrosion I couldn’t see opened up and released their contents. When it was done I was left with Swiss cheese in a few spots, some I drilled all the way through. I backed all the holes, including old screw and bolt holes I won’t be reusing with masking tape and filled everything with Marine Tex Grey epoxy. It worked surprisingly well, and the tape pulled off fine 4 hours later. I think there was no real way I could have gotten everything, and there is a high likelihood some of this will progress and I’ll see it bubbling up on the outside. The new transom with be laminated with 5200, which should provide a barrier between the two layers sufficient to keep this from spreading to the new layer. I may have have a bi or tri annual maintenance schedule where I drill/dimple new spots from outside that become visible being careful not to disturb the u deleting sealant and the filling and touching up paint.
Given the condition of the part of my transom wood and the aluminum against that someone spilled oil on, I can’t help but wonder if oiling the side in contact with the metal isn’t the way to go.
I have a full gallon of Alumahawk, I’ll probably just paint the metal inside and outside
 

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Fj40fiji

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Glued up my new transom with some remnant epoxy resin I had left over from a surf board I made a loooong time ago. I used a small amount of this resin a few months back and still worked, I think it’s 13 years old. The guy I bought it from told me the shelf life after opening was indefinite. I didn’t plan to test it but the other project I had in mind never came to fruition.
 

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