Re: i don't get it
carbs are clean. used a rebuild kit.....set the correct float level. blew the passages out with carb cleaner and canned air. no i did not remove the welch plugs..
Problem number one, your carbs may or may not be clean. Dirty carbs, won't help the motor idle smooth, or at the lowest rpm.
i synced the carbs by setting the 2nd cluster lever with the 2nd pickup and the space between them when the magneto at max is .015 sorry i may have gotten my wording wrong.
Problem number two, you cannot do step D of the service, untill the first steps are done. Max advance is set by a screw, if that screw is wrong, and since you have said you cleaned, and adjusted the points, it is wrong, then the carbs are not synced correctly.
max advance still shouldnt be affecting my idle. even with my pick up levers loose and freely moving and me only moving the timing it still will not idle. click in gear and dead..
True, however your carbs still may be dirty, since you haven't cleaned the passages out under the welch plugs. The welch plugs are there, BTW, so you CAN clean out those passages, since there is NO other way to clean them.
i have followed the service links...
Yes you have, just not in the correct sequence.
i will try and set the carbs individualy next time.
before i took the powerhead off to remove the service the mounts this motor ran perfectly?
after i put it back together i synced the carbs with each other(never was done) sync the carbs with timing(the feeler guage and pickups and such)
since the first time i restored the motor it has always done the thing where it will have a little higher idle then slowly come back down.
sorry for my ignorance but max adavance doesnt explain my idle.
All you need is a dial indicator, and a cheap mulitimeter, and feeler gauges,
or you can do as I did and buy the C-91-26916A1 timing tool on ebay, for 20 bucks. Then you can do the complete service except for low speed advance which is not relevent, it can be set by ear, to be close enough. You can ask on here a 100 times, about the idle issue, but unless you
are willing to follow the advice, you will not solve the idle problem. BTW low speed idle is set by tuning the carbs, while the motor is running, after it is warm. The service manual will only get it close, not perfect, for that the boat must be in the lake.
You were asked about the fuel bulb leak down, and you go and brush off the answer, instead of just borrowing a known good fuel hose, and eliminating that as a possible cause.
These motors were timed mechanically, so a timing light is useless unless you physically setup timing marks, and for that you need the special tool or a dial indicator.
Your parts guy, just wants to sell you more parts.
Poor reeds will cause poor idle, even if they don't shoot gas out the carbs, however, I'll bet yours are fine, unless they were physically damaged. They do wear, and lose the ability to idle down around 500, but they still should idle at 700 no problems. A nice smooth idle to boot. If your top seal is gone, you should see a "black greassy" line above it, around the housing, if there is no greasy stuff there, the seal is fine.
kinda assumed you guys knew my engine