Re: I just broke my drive shaft.
The seal, bearing, carrier assembly needs to be removed, then two large snap rings, then reverse gear with its thrust bearing and thrust washer. Then you can get at the nut on the bottom of the driveshaft.
You'll need to grind on side of the wrench so that the curvature will slide over the clutch dog... needed to grab the nut securely.
Do not fully remove the nut but rather have it slightly higher than a flush position, then with a piece of wood and a hammer, tap the propshaft upwards to break the driveshaft away from the pinion gear.
Now with the lower unit upside down in a holding tool of some kind, gently remove the nut from the driveshaft by turning the driveshaft, leaving the pinion and nut where it sat (hopefully).
With careful patience, insert the new driveshaft upwards and very carefully align the D/S splines with the pinion gear. At this point you'll notice that the driveshaft is lifting the pinion nut. Carefully spin the nut in a tightening motion onto the driveshaft with a long thin screwdriver.
If you were able to follow thru with the above, you will now need one special tool to grab the top driveshaft splines in order to attach a torque wrench as that nut must be torqued to factory specifications.
Seems to me the torque specifications is 60 to 65 foot pounds. If I am in error on this, I'm sure someone will insert a correction for you.
NOTE: Some models have a lower pinion bearing that is a one piece unit, that is... the needle bearings cannot fall out. Other models have a pinion bearing whereas the needles are actually rollers and unfortunately this type bearing usually results in having the rollers fall out at some point. Should you be unlucky in this area, we can still walk you thru it.