I need a part number for a neutral safety switch remote control (1985 Merc 50HP ELPT)

[BWR1953]

1985 Mercury 50HP ELPT, 4 cylinder, 2-stroke. Power tilt & trim.

I've searched for hours today and just can't find the part number for the neutral safety interlock. I'm sure that it's been used on a variety of engines but I want to be sure that I'll get the right one if needed.

My remote is the Commander model as shown in the picture (before it was mounted.) I don't want to dismount it and take it apart just to get a part number.

A little help?
Thanks!

 

[The Force power]

Here's a link to all parts

https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/ca...erm=en&utm_source=Overlay_IP=ca&utm_medium=us

 

[BWR1953]

Here's a link to all parts

https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/ca...erm=en&utm_source=Overlay_IP=ca&utm_medium=us

Thanks but I've already checked there and the part isn't listed. :blue:

 

[racerone]

----mercruserparts.com-------Just click away till you stumble on controls / accessories.

 

[BWR1953]

----mercruserparts.com-------Just click away till you stumble on controls / accessories.

Thanks but I've already checked that site as well and the part isn't listed there either. No pix, no diagrams, no part numbers. Nothing. It's like it never existed at all. :ambivalence:

I'll probably just go out tomorrow morning (hurricane permitting) and do the testing. More than likely though, I'll just order the neutral safety switch, the ignition switch and the solenoid because they're so old and finicky already.

 

[racerone]

Most control boxes are listed there !!

 

[BWR1953]

Most control boxes are listed there !!

Mine isn't, I guess it's too old. But thanks again.

 

[racerone]

I can find control boxes from the early 1960's on that site.

 

[The Force power]

Check in here;

http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/mercury/manuals/mercury_1965-1989_40-115.html#/0


In case you find it........Here's a link on how to

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1TA...zQ1/edit?pli=1

 

[BWR1953]

Check in here;

http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/mercury/manuals/mercury_1965-1989_40-115.html#/0


In case you find it........Here's a link on how to

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1TA...zQ1/edit?pli=1

Hurricane Isaias isn't going to bother us, so we went out to the garage this morning. Wasn't unbearably hot either.

We did the troubleshooting and it was the solenoid. Part ordered.

Thanks for the links. The first one said Flash Player 9 was required, which has been obsolete forever. But the second link worked fine and I found the procedure to disassemble the Commander control box. Looks to be a PITA, so I'll wait on that one and see if the solenoid replacement takes care of the problem.

Thanks to all! :joyous:

 

[The Force power]

Thanks for the links. The first one said Flash Player 9 was required,

Thanks to all! :joyous:

If.... you have the Flash player the link works

 

[Faztbullet]

Need to download what every manual you need as Flash goes away in December and boatinfo site will not work

 

[The Force power]

Need to download what every manual you need as Flash goes away in December and boatinfo site will not work

Thanks FB

I was not aware of this & will get on it now to grab what I need
I thought, it was not going to be "supported" anymore

 

[BWR1953]

Well, I zapped myself this afternoon. :grumpy:

And I'm mad at me for being a doofus. I could have been seriously hurt. :nono:

The problem wasn't the solenoid. "The boy" (my stepson) and I installed the replacement yesterday morning. Still no joy when I turned the key. Nothing happened. Nothing at all.

We continued troubleshooting and discovered that the "Y" junction covered by the blue heat shrink (circled in red) was in bad shape, causing an intermittent open. The ground comes from the wiring harness and one lead of the "Y" is connected at the top of the solenoid mount (red arrow) while the other end is connected to the negative side of the solenoid. This is the original setup which had been working normally previously.



The "Y" connection was much worse than it looks in the pic.



One little tug on the "Y" connection and it came apart.




We cut and cleaned up the "Y" connection and reattached everything where it needed to be. Still no joy.

So, I did a test and jumped the negative side of the solenoid directly to common ground on the starter mount and turned the key. The engine cranked! Then, I put the shifter into gear and the engine didn't crank, which was good. The neutral interlock was working.




So, the starter, solenoid and neutral interlock are working.

We then made a trip to buy some connectors and when we got back, we rigged up a semi-permanent connection. The idea was to get the engine running and then dig into the problem this winter when the weather is cooler.

​​​​​​Got the temp harness made and connected. I left the ground from the harness open. (CIrcled in red.)




Then I pumped the fuel bulb, choked the engine and cranked. It started right up! I let it idle for a couple minutes, then turned the key off. But the engine kept running!

So I grabbed my alligator clips, attached one end to that open ground from the harness and started to put the other end on the common ground at the starter.

And that's when I got zapped! :facepalm: Duh, me.

I then pulled the fuel line and let the engine shut down that way. Then I reattached the fuel line.

Next, I pulled the kill switch and turned the key. The engine immediately fired up again! Once more, I pulled the fuel line. Then we called it a day and went back in the house.

And that's where we are now. I have no idea WTH is going on. :noidea:

 

[GA_Boater]

First, a quick way to shut off a motor if the motor is turning the key doesn't do it - Choke it, turns off in seconds.

What are you using for a wiring diagram?

 

[BWR1953]

First, a quick way to shut off a motor if the motor is turning the key doesn't do it - Choke it, turns off in seconds.

What are you using for a wiring diagram?

Thanks for the tip! I'll keep that in mind.

Pix and diagrams are attached below.

Today we reconfigured the wiring back to normal and once again got no response when I turned the key. We started troubleshooting from the beginning once again. The results said an open ground wire once more. So, we took the connector apart from the engine side harness and gave it a good cleaning. And we tested continuity from the harness to the solenoid and from the harness to the "M" on the key switch. Both tested normally.

BTW - I tried to reply to your PM but there's a flashing banner at the bottom of the page which won't let me.


We cleaned the harness connector thoroughly. Then we tested from the connector to the solenoid and results were normal.






Starter Circuit.

 

[Mark ofs]

I think your parts list can be found here https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/32081/2128/470

 

[BWR1953]

I think your parts list can be found here https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/32081/2128/470

Thanks for the link. I'll check it out.

 

[GA_Boater]

Wiring part 1

At this point, the motor cranks and starts as it should, right? The problem is you can't shut it off, right?

The wire that zapped you is or should be a black wire with a yellow stripe. It is the Off or shutdown ground that originates in the remote (actually battery negative) through the M pin on the key switch to the man overboard switch and through the 8 pin connector to the motor. From the big connector it is tied to the black/yellow mercury switch.

Follow the wire on the mercury switch wire down



to the small terminal strip and that is where the black/yellow from the big plug should be connected.

 

[GA_Boater]

Wiring part 2;


First a question - Has the motor been running and this no crank and no shut off is new?

Second - Use this link to access your mail without the jumping - https://forums.iboats.com/privatemessage/list/77810/1

That "Y" splice is from a PO, certainly not factory. Where does the single wire come from? I know the two coming out of the splice go the solenoid hold down bolt and the other makes a ground to activate the solenoid. But where is the single wire connected? Can you tell what pin on the 8 pin connector?

The zapper wire - Where does it go? I can't make heads or tail of the tangled wiring. Fish it out to see where it goes.

Is this your Y splice fix? Move it so it isn't over top of battery connection on the solenoid. If it vibrates enough the insulation could wear through and short the battery to ground.