I need a refurbished block for my 2000 Mercruiser...my current block is an '87???

[achris]

That's the timing cover for an earlier model, in keeping with the 'old engine with 2000 accessories bolted on' theme.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Your Balancer looks like it was designed to go with the plastic timing cover and not the metal one - like Chris said, get the later model motor and you should be golden.

The reason my balance and metal timing cover works together with the non-balance shaft motor is that is what it was before a rebuild and addition of Vortec heads. What counts is mostly the bolt on belt driven stuff and the harmonic balancer. You will want to pull a number off of yours and make sure that it really is one for a balance shaft motor before using it. But I'm betting it is seeing as how it has the serp belt shiv. Sure be nice to have the motor set up right for your boat.

 

[achris]

I'd probably go for these two, and drop all your gear from the 'old' engine back onto it.... You'll probably have to find an marine electric fuel pump if the current block is using the original 'car' pump...






Chris..........

 

[Porschesolutions]

Thanks guys- since my heads were just done (3 miles and/or 35 minutes), an 090 short block might be a good bet for me, given that everything should just transfer over. Yes I’ll def. verify the harmonic and flywheel.

 

[achris]

... an 090 short block might be a good bet for me...

Yep.... That's a 96 to 98 block. Balance shaft engine. If, at a later stage you want to go back to the vortec heads, it's not that difficult from there. Literally, just the heads and an intake manifold. What ignition system do you have?

Chris.......

 

[Scott Danforth]

Chris, I think he verified that he has vortec heads.

 

[achris]

Chris, I think he verified that he has vortec heads.

Ah, ok. All good then.

 

[Porschesolutions]

yes I have the Vortech heads: the whole motor is "complete & accurate" except for the '87 shortblock: everything else was transferred over to keep it all original...including (at my motor's loss) the harmonic & perhaps flywheel.

 

[Scott06]

You can get a reman to save a few bucks but if you just want to do it once, a new GM base engine with flywheel, balancer, water pump is about $3100 from Michigan motorz etc. Swap your intake accessories carb etc go boating...(you may need metric engine mount bracket, starter, and bellhousing bolts vs your older block).

this will eliminate any parts mis match rebuild issues etc. not the cheapest route but will be 100% the engine that mercruiser and Volvo deliver from the factory.

 

[Porschesolutions]

My motor spun a bearing as the "seller" swapped in a non-balance shafted shortblock into this assembled engine, with the "correct" harmonic & flywheel, so the motor vibrated until a bearing spun. I now have the correct longblock (remanufactured), but finding lots of things that won't work with this correct shortblock as these parts followed the 1987 motor that was swapped in; including:

1. Oil pan: should need an 809980T1, and this appears to have the dipstick on the right side (oil filter side) of the motor.

2. Oil dipstick & tube: I should need an 860208A1 and dipstick 861942T6, but it's supposed to be installed on the right side of the motor, but the hole in the block (and appears the oil pan too) is on the left by the starter: thoughts?

the current dipstick is from a 92-96 motor (& is too long) & the dipstick was from the '87 motor & will not bolt up to the new one.

3. Timing cover: It appears I need the non-reusable one, generic 4.3 GM: is this correct?

Thanks guys!! Mark

 

[Scott Danforth]

look for achris writeup on oil pans and leaks on his 4.3. he goes thru the part numbers, what works to keep leaks at bay, etc.

 

[Porschesolutions]

Ok will do!

 

[achris]

My motor spun a bearing as the "seller" swapped in a non-balance shafted shortblock into this assembled engine, with the "correct" harmonic & flywheel, so the motor vibrated until a bearing spun. I now have the correct longblock (remanufactured), but finding lots of things that won't work with this correct shortblock as these parts followed the 1987 motor that was swapped in; including:

1. Oil pan: should need an 809980T1, and this appears to have the dipstick on the right side (oil filter side) of the motor.

Use a standard pan for any 4.3 powered GM vehicle from about 1998 to 2007. GM part number is 12597153, Dorman 264-482, Spectra GMP67A. You'll need to paint it. I did mine with an etch prime followed by a spray on 2 pack gloss black. ONLY paint the outside, leave the inside bare...

2. Oil dipstick & tube: I should need an 860208A1 and dipstick 861942T6, but it's supposed to be installed on the right side of the motor, but the hole in the block (and appears the oil pan too) is on the left by the starter: thoughts?

There's usually a hole on both sides of the block. The one not used is plugged.

the current dipstick is from a 92-96 motor (& is too long) & the dipstick was from the '87 motor & will not bolt up to the new one.

You'll probably need the genuine Merc dipstick and tube...

3. Timing cover: It appears I need the non-reusable one, generic 4.3 GM: is this correct?

Again, one from any 4.3 litre vehicle 1998 to 2007. GM part number 93445880

look for achris writeup on oil pans and leaks on his 4.3. he goes thru the part numbers, what works to keep leaks at bay, etc.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...es-outdrives/561580-an-oil-free-bilge-finally
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...rd-engines-outdrives/525591-v6-oil-leak-fixed

 

[Porschesolutions]

Hey thanks Chris for your time- very much appreciated.

ill run with those part numbers however I just looked at the new block and it only has the dipstick tube hole on the left side, so I’ll reuse the old tube and will drill/tap a new securing bolt for the securing tab since here’s a boss protrusion on the block where the prior block had the threaded hole- score. I’ll just reuse the existing dipstick and will re-etch it at 4.5 quarts.

lastly, this LB came with a new unmounted Melling HV oil pump and shaft, but no screen or gasket or instructions thereof. I’ve watched a few vids and it appears I need a new inlet screen and at 1/4” from the bottom of the pan, the screen tube needs to be braised onto the pump. I guess I’ll source one from Autozone but should the pump have a gasket at the block?? I’d think so as oil bypassing would reduce oil pressure.

Sorry guys, I’m a Porsche engine expert and am still learning smalll blocks...

 

[achris]

No gasket on the oil pump. And there's no need of a high vol pump. Just use the standard one and it'll give plenty enough oil. High vols are for engines designed to run over 6 or so thousand revs.You shouldn't be getting anywhere close to that...

 

[Porschesolutions]

The high volume Melling pump came with the warranted LB; so I'll use it to keep the warranty valid for the next owner, but ok, no gasket between the block and the oil pump. Thanks Chris!

 

[Scott Danforth]

unless you have sloppy bearings a high-volume oil pump simply opens the pump relief valve sooner than a standard volume pump. no harm in using one, however Chris is right - not needed for two reasons

the oil pump in V6's is same used in V8's and there are less main and rod bearings in a V6, and because the stock oil pump already provides about double the flow needed.

 

[Rick Stephens]

As a kid, waaaay back when, I installed a high volume oil pump in a Ford 351 Windsor V8 rebuild going into a 1 ton flatbed I owned. Big mistake. The higher pressures resulted in shearing the roll pin that held the drive gear to the distributor. It did that a couple times before I got my head out of butt and pulled the engine back out and went to a standard pump. That was after sucking a teensy piece of the 1/8 inch roll pin into the pump and freezing it solid. Luckily it also killed the motor since the disty stopped turning, so only damage was to my ignorance. A tight engine does not usually need a HV pump.

 

[Porschesolutions]

Happy post-turkey day folks…are ya’ll still waddling too?
Question: I had the wrong dipstick and perhaps dipstick tube in my ’87 motor installed in my ’00 Mercruiser 4.3 drive system. ’87 block vibrated itself to death as it was not compatible with the ’00 serpentine/harmonic system (and perhaps flywheel), so I have a new ‘96+ balance-shafted longblock with the cast aluminum oil pan- and again my dipstick wont work.

• Dipstick has no place to secure to block
• Curves to the dipstick will not allow installation into the sump of the oil pan
• “stop” on the dipstick tube is about 2-3” away from the block as the tube bottoms out
• Slight bending of the tube “may” allow it to reach the sump, but still no way to secure to block AND the wet manifolds will be in the way.

Thoughts? :/

 

[Marina]

I believe they one completely ready to go at Continental Marine in Quincy, MA. I almost bought it, but the seller of (lemon) boat I bought provided me with a block wholesale.