I/O (Sterndrive) Conversion to Outboards

tpenfield

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Internet is back . . . firing on all cylinders (almost) . . .

I'm just about to run out of heating oil and based on my call to the local oil company they are finding it difficult to care less about it. :sneaky:

They told me that I use 10 gallons a day . . . the tank is 275 gallons. OK, they should come out very 20-25 days or so. It seems like they are coming once a month.

I have a 'do not use' list of suppliers . . . they are heading to the top of the list.
 

Lou C

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We have natural gas, I do like it for that reason, but still sniff round the basement all the same lol.
BTW I was surprised how fast PSEG Long Island got people back on line after the storm. At the height there were 18,000 families affected but by the next day it was way down, to a few thousand. We didn't even have a flicker, despite very high winds, could not sleep it was so loud. Had the generator ready though with about 30 gallons of E0 fuel. The high winds kept our snow totals lower, we only got about 16-20", other parts of LI got 24-30".
 

tpenfield

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In other news . . .

I came across a local supplier of fiberglass materials. Not sure why I didn't find them with all my prior searching, but their prices are really good . . . and they offer a discount for cash, etc. Their main business is fiberglass parts and repairs. Looks like they fabricate large tanks and do some boat repairs.

Anyway, I need to place one more large order of supplies to get the remainder of cloth and resin needed. It would be really handy to get materials within a day or 2 and not pay/wait for shipping.
 

Pmt133

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I have a marine supply place nearby that has materials if needed in a pinch. (1708, woven, CSM, poly, vinyl and epoxy.) Prices were a little higher but if I needed it that day, I had it. About a 45 minute ride from the house each way.

Speedy tanks (Atlantic coastal) is about 10 minutes from the marina. So that was nice knowing I have a tank supplier basically in my backyard.
 

tpenfield

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I was never concerned, knowing you got your hands full.

Tomorrow is fillets and tabbing of the transom.

Tuesday, I am going to pick up fiberglass supplies in MA and CT. Hopefully this will be it for the major purchasing. Since I'm picking up the materials, I am getting the 5 gallon pails for VE resin (2 of them). Also paying cash for a discount off the regular prices . . . saving about $300 on the resin (vs. what I have been buying), and maybe $100 on the glass cloth.
 

tpenfield

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I got my supplies this AM . . . a few hours of driving but worth it.

10 gallons of VE resin
10 yds 50" 1708
10 yds 50" 1808
8 yds 50" 2415
MEKP for the 10 gallons
Gelcoat
Finishing wax (for the gelcoat)

$840 . . .

Probably would have been $1,200 ish through my other sources.

My project totals for cloth and resin are looking like . . .
  • CSM 1.5oz : 10 yds
  • 1708 / 1808 / 2415 cloths: 85 yds
  • VE Resin : 32 gallons
 

tphoyt

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Looks like it was worth the drive.
I like to shop in the stores over online the only down fall is I almost always get something that I hadn’t planned on getting. 😂
 

tpenfield

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More transom work . . .

I am planning on a top cap of 1/2" rounded Coosa for the transom. But, before I added the cap I wanted to put several 'bands' of fiberglass (1808) in the areas between where the 2 splashwells will go. These will provide about 10,000 lbs of strength directly in line with pulling force on the top of the transom. . . acting like 'straps'.
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Then the top cap goes over them . . . I figured that this approach would be stronger than having all of the glass go 'up & over' the top cap.
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Today will be rounding off the top cap and finishing off the tabbing within the transom area. Next steps would be a whole lot of edge and corner rounding on the outside surfaces.

The Admiral keeps asking when I'm going to be done. :rolleyes: So, I gave her some boat seats to take apart from a couple of upholstery jobs I have over the winter. :LOL:
 

Pmt133

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How was working with the 1808? My understanding is it is more like a woven/csm layup vs the 1708 at its 45 degrees...
 

tpenfield

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How was working with the 1808? My understanding is it is more like a woven/csm layup vs the 1708 at its 45 degrees...
The 1808 is pretty similar to the 1708, but perhaps the strands are not as tightly stitched. The problem with the 1708 is that it is strongest in the -45˚/+45˚ directions. Often you need a mix of cloths so that you get strength in all directions (-45,0,+45,90). Also, if you need strength in a 0˚ or 90˚ direction, 1808 is more effective. The 1708 can be cut & placed at a 45˚ angle, which then brings the fibers to a '0/90' orientation, but the cloth tends to fray excessively when cut in that manner.

I have some 2415 stitched cloth, which is in fact woven roving and CSM stitched together. The strands are at a 0/90 orientation, but the woven nature makes it not as strong as the 1708/1808 cloths.
 
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tpenfield

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Quick Update . . .

I got the 'top cap' rounded and put a layer of glass (1708) up and over the transom. There will be quite a few more layers to go.
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I still needed to put another layer of tabbing on the transom/stringer joint. So, I decided to try out the 2415 cloth.
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It actually lays fairly flat as compared to plain woven roving. Don't tell anybody, but with WR and sometimes the biaxial cloths I use a light spray of glue and adhere clear plastic (0.7 mil) to the cloth.
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This makes measuring, cutting and handling of the pieces much easier as the edges are not fraying or falling apart. Once the resin soaks through from the backside of the cloth, the glue is no more.

Here is the 2415 as tabbing.
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There is an 1808, 1708, and 2415 layers in the tabbing. Total thickness is about 0.18" and a total of 18.72 sq. in. of tabbing from 8 joints. I figure 15,000 psi strength for fiberglass, so it puts it in the 200,000+ lb. range.
 
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