I think my outboard was running on one cylinder

[jtexas]

Re: I think my outboard was running on one cylinder

Recap your present symptoms: Cold start ok, won't run at idle speed, won't start warm without choke. Make sure I got that right.

Four reasons why the float valve is ok:
1. The tip of the needle has to get up in there to close it off. The weight of the float, when the level in the bowl gets low enough, brings it on down and the fuel pump refills it. The old one dropped more easily because it was worn down & not closing off as completely.

You did change the seat as well, right?

2. If the float valve is sticking shut it will run dry after a few minutes. If there's not enough gas in the carb to start it, there sure as heck won't be enough in there to run it.

3. If the bowl is empty the primer bulb will be soft (if the bulb is firm *and* the carb bowl is empty, that's a whole nuther can of worms).

4. Choking this motor just pulls more fuel in from the carb bowls. If the bowl is empty, the choke has no effect.

Closing the choke plates basically shuts off the air supply at the front of the venturi, creating a vacuum at the back of the carb throat, sucking in gas from the high-speed jet.

So the problem is in your idle passage.

Have you adjusted the slow speed needle?
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167352

 

[Molska]

Re: I think my outboard was running on one cylinder

Okay i will readjust my float and try to make it drop smoother

And i tried to adjust the slow speed which i think is set, but it wouldn't idle long enough for me to adjust it properly i needed to throttle higher to keep it going cause it was always on the verge of dieing.

So in hopes of this working it should fix the idle issue as well as the spitting problem now after the slow speed is adjusted?

I will let you know how i do thanks J

 

[Molska]

Re: I think my outboard was running on one cylinder

Okay so heres what happend:

I took the carb apart again i put back the old seat which didn't look like there was anything wrong with it and the new needle didn't get stuck and moved smooth once again, set the float height, put the carb back. set the slow speed needle 1 1/2 turns just like the post

Primed the bulb, it got hard and BOOM one pull and it started decent idle, but i just couldn't get the idle to work in the test tank. Now when it stopped now and then i needed to chock again to get it started, but no problems starting now. i will adjust the slow speed out on the lake.

Plugs are still getting black top one getting wet still. and i won't know if the initial problem is fixed until i get onto the lake and go full out.

Oh i also did a minor link and synk with the throttle and that seemed to really help too.

So now i just have black plugs and slow speed adjustment to do and then come back to the initial problem.