ID help old Chrysler

[flier]

HI Guys new guy here. Name's Tom. I fish and hunt a lot. I just got this rig for free from a buddy who lost space to store it. Just needs some electrical work and the starter sticks. K
Now he admits he is NOT a mechanic of any kind. I am, so I figured I would take it and see if I could do some fishing and duck hunting with it in the upper bay near my home.
Question is I am not a boat mechanic but cars along with some machine work experince. So I would be greatly thankful if someone could tell ABOUT what year this thing is and maybe helping me find an ID number on the engine somewhere. And maybe some spec manual sites or something. lol
I pretty exited as this will be a first BOAT restoration for me. I usually tinker with cars.
The boat reads Cobia on the side....no idea lol
He said he did have it running last year in the water. Problem is I don't think he knew what he was doing and I hope he didn't mess it up too much when he "got it going" lol. He stopped using it when someone cut up the wires on ther trailler and the ignition. Think he gave up on it.
Right now it's completey drained. I haven't even opened the cover yet. Just got it yesterday. I plan on messing with it this weekend.
Thanks for any help guys. Hope to meet some new friends here. Also I do duck hunt and salt fly-fish alot. And would be happy to take anyone out interested next year.
Thanks!
Tom

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: ID help old Chrysler

Judging by the one piece lower unit (with the skeg broken off by the way) and the cover:

Unless the hood has been changed It's a 3 cylinder, 3 carburetor Chrysler, either 75, 85, or 90 Horsepower. 70 horsepower was also made but less common. Year would be somewhere between 1979 1/2 (when they went to one piece lower) through around '84 when they were sold to AMF Brunswick and the name changed to Force.

The model number and serial number plate is about 1 1/2 by 3 inches and will be found inside the lower pan directly below where the control cables and fuel line enter it. (starboard side) Unless the lower pan has been changed, this will definitely id the engine as to size and year.

This is a two cycle engine. Be sure to use 50 to 1 gas to oil with TCW3 rated oil.

Buy a Clymers manual--not the best, but better than most others. Then, once you get it running, change the lower unit oil and the water pump impeller.

All the wires are color coded so the cut ones can be spliced color to color.

If it's a later model, it is most likely Prestolite distributorless CD ignition. But if it's an earlier one, it will have a pointless electronic distributor with Motorola CD ignition.

As a mechanic, you should find nothing mysterious about this engine; It is almost dirt simple and hand tools are just about all that's needed for most repairs. Ignition is relatively simple but the CD boxes while can be examined to find a problem (troubleshooting), are potted and generally can not be repaired.

Once you find out exactly what you have, and any problems, come back to the forum with any questions.

 

[flier]

Re: ID help old Chrysler

Wow huge help, thank you very much Frank! Be talkin to ya!

Tom

 

[flier]

Got the number

Got the number

Hi Got the number as 756H3K serial is 1036
From whot I found on Misc. websites I think it's a 1983 75hp. It does have a distributor with wires and plugs. Looks very clean aside from the starter and distributor hot box. (Thought the advance timing mech. was interesting coming off the cable.)
Also the three carbs have NO Air cleaner at all, just worn gaskets where looks like there was one/three. lol. If I have trouble finding a replacement, (NO idea if its a one piece or three) Can I use three of those old Webber type single air filters in the mean time? Like the ones on the old GM six packs? Size looks kinda the same.
Also I Saw this clymers manual on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clym...1966-1984_W0QQitemZ180209848110QQcmdZViewItem

Look like the one I should get??
Thanks again Frank for all the help.
Tom

 

[steelespike]

Re: Got the number

Re: Got the number

Outboards don't have air filters not much dust on the water.They may have had some sort of screen to keep out stuff.like loose insulation.Clymer manual may be ok I don't have personal experience with them.The very best would be the factory manual.Definately don't do any trouble shooting without a manual.Ignition can be damaged from improper treatrment.Frank and the guys know the Chryslers pretty well.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: ID help old Chrysler

Sounds like you are missing the airbox/silencer. The three carbs had a single airbox that covered all three. Its function was to catch spit-back oil and fuel from the carbs, recycle it to the bottom of the intake manifold, and to MILDLY silence them. You will see a nipple below and to the right of the bottom carb (when looking rearward at them) where a rubber hose connected the airbox to the manifold. This nipple is a metered orifice so it can be left unconnected. There is no air filter. Do not use one. It will slightly restrict the airflow and make the mixture richer

The air box is comprised of an inner and outer piece which are screwed together. A total of six bolts or screws (2 to each carb) hold it onto the carbs. Three gaskets are seated between it and the carbs. Be careful when you replace the gaskets: if they are too large or not seated properly, they can interfere with the choke levers and prevent the chokes from closing.

If you elect to, you can run the engine without the airbox without any harm. The only thing that will happen is that more oil will collect in the lower pan, but those old engines are usually so oily and dirty that it won't matter.

Also, don't try to buy one new. Those SOBs will charge probably up around 90 bucks. Salvage one off a junk engine if you can find it. ANY three cylinder engine from early '70s Chrysler to about '90 Force and maybe later will fit. After about 1980 they had a larger air inlet though and to my eyes would be more desireable.

Your distributor should be electronic: ie. it uses an electric eye and shutter to key a transistor in the CD pack (Black, Finned Motorola most likely). The blue wire is power to the electric eye. White or white with black stripe is out to the CD box.

Please! Please! Please! Use the correct surface gap plugs! Champion L20V or NGK BUH (I think) Champion has a conversion number --I think it is 322. Incorrect side electrode plugs WILL melt holes in the crown of the piston.

Gotta go. Ask any questions you have. Couldn't get to the ebay site but if it says Chrysler from 4 to 140 HP or something like that, it's the correct one.