Ignition Coil Problem

tinytanic1

Cadet
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
13
While my 16ft runabout is running the ignition coil gets so hot you can't even touch it. Then if you shut off the engine, it won't start again. I've replace coil, distributor cap, points, plug wires, and the external resistor wire that connects to positive side of coil. Sometimes, I have a full 12 volts at the coil, other times I only have 6 volts. I should have a reduced voltage at coil due to resistor wire I think? This is 1977 Mercruiser 120hp (2.5L) with 4 cylinders. HELP! I've run out of ideas!
 
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Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: Ignition Coil Problem

Basically, if it's getting that hot, and you have full battery voltage at the +terminal of the coil, and you have a resistor wire that is good, then you have some serious wiring problems. You have power getting there somehow.
Get your service manual out with the wiring diagram and start checking that every thing is wired correctly.
You would be amazed at the number of old boats I see with "Owner Wiring" causing all their problems. Especially when they don't understnd the sytems.
 

sarantis

Chief Petty Officer
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Feb 4, 2007
Messages
436
Re: Ignition Coil Problem

The - of voltmeter to the chasis not to the - of the coil.Its ground is coming from the distributor and is not stable
 
Joined
Jul 29, 2007
Messages
16
Re: Ignition Coil Problem

The reason you sometimes see 12 VDC and sometimes half that is because with no "load" (as in the coil not being in series to ground) and even with the dropping resistor or resitor wire on the positive side of the coil, if the coil is not connected to ground through the points the open circuit of those points disconnects the coil and therefore the "load" to complete the circuit. When the points are open you will read 12 volts on the + of the coil. When the points are closed you should read whatever the dropping resistor drops the voltage to, usually 6 Volts.
 

tinytanic1

Cadet
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
13
Re: Ignition Coil Problem

So what is it I need to do? I have one wire going from coil to distributor which 'closes' the circuit (if I understand correctly) and grounds the coil when the points are closed. Is this the way it's suppose to work. How, or where do I ground the coil when the points are open, if I'm suppose to?
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
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Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: Ignition Coil Problem

I'll expand on the description for anyone interested;

An ignition coil is a step-up transformer, that gets pulses of 12 volts (or less) in the primary coil winding. The ends of that coil of wire are the + and - terminals.
During "start" 12 v is applied to the + from the start solenoid circuit, the - wire goes to the points and then to engine ground when the points close. Current flows in ~100 turns of primary wire, causing a magnetic field to build up. The magnetic field also goes through several thousand turns of very fine wire that makes up the secondary of the coil.
One end of the secondary is common to the - terminal, the other goes to the HV tower in the middle of the coil.

That induces a voltage in the secondary turns of less current but much greater voltage.

The magnetic field continues to build while the points remain closed, (dwell). Then the points open, the magnetic field collapses very fast, inducing a lot of voltage in the secondary, 6000 to 8000 v. That's more than enough to jump the small gap in the distributor and the spark plug back to ground.

When the key is released to "on", the coil + is supplied by a wire with resistance in it, to limit current and not cook the coil.

The condenser is across the points to absorb the voltage generated in the primary from the collapsing field. Without it, points would last only a couple hours.
 

Zero Balance

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 11, 2007
Messages
152
Re: Ignition Coil Problem

I thought the resistor wire was there to prevent the points from burning while closed.

How does this circuit work with Electronic ignition? 12v constant and the resistor wire that is?
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
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Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: Ignition Coil Problem

Points start to pit as soon as you start the engine, so must be re-set as they wear, then changed regularely.
Electronic systems use 1 of several methods to generate a pulse to replace them. I'm not familiar with T-Bolt systems but cars with distributors typically use a method that passes a star shaped reluctor past a magnetic pick up, then amplifies it to drive the coil. Very reliable, little maintenance and a very hot spark. And the ability of allowing an engine computer to control timing to suit conditions.
The electronics limit the current to the coil with a short duration but higher voltage spike so a resistor isn't needed.
 

Zero Balance

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2007
Messages
152
Re: Ignition Coil Problem

On my coil for instance. If I dont run the circuit through the resistor the coil still gets very hot. I replaced the old coil with a mallory coil compatible to the unilite conversion I installed and the instructions said NOT to bypass the ballast resistor.

I tried running the circuit without the resistor for a few moments believing that the resistor wasn't necessary but the coil got hot hot. I ran the circuit through the resistor and the coil ran cool.
 
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