Impellar problems? overheat buzzer.

[NEKFORCE]

I just rebuilt this motor, the boat had a new impeller installed before the motor went and the guy said it sat in his barn for about a year.
I now have the boat running, and idling on the muffs with a hose, but after a few minutes, a buzzer goes off. if i let it cool it will run for a while again and then get the buzzer again. I am assuming its overheating is this normal on a hose connection? Also I have attached a picture because i wanted to know if water should come out of the spot i have drawn an arrow to? I just don't know if its getting the water it should and i don't want to destroy anything. do you think i have already ruined anything when the buzzer went off.

 

[Tnstratofam]

It's possible the water tube that goes from the lower unit to the powerhead is not lined up correctly and therefore you aren't getting full flow of water to the powerhead. That may be why water is leaking at the spot you indicate. Also when submerging the lower unit in a bucket or troth of water the water level needs to be well above the water impellers location in the lower unit otherwise you won't get good waterflow.

Using a water hose with flushing muffs with good full water pressure delivers adequate water supply to test run an engine at idle with a few short throttle increases. Do not run at WOT when testing this way. Anything less than full force water pressure or a fully subnerged lower unit and your likely to damage the engine or the impeller at the very least.

I would pull the lower unit and inspect the impeller and be sure it is okay. Sitting for a year shouldn't have hurt it but you never know. Could be a blockage from a rodent or insect. Could be a damaged impeller even though it was supposed to be new. Also you will be able to inspect the water jacket in the lower unit, and the watertube in the midleg leading to the powerhead. Might be worth it to flush the water tube in the midleg while you have the lower unit apart.

Oh and while inspecting the impeller be sure to look at the impeller housing. Make sure it is not severely pitted or damaged as a new impeller is of little good in a damaged housing.

 

[NEKFORCE]

Its actually NOT leaking water where i pointed out, I was wondering if water should be coming from there. So i take it that is correct.
I did a couple nearly wot bursts but when getting the buzzer shot off immediately. How can i tell if the impeller is working? is overheating normal with flushing muffs?

 

[Tnstratofam]

Overheating is not normal with flushing muffs if you are not running WOT for more than a few seconds, and you have good waterflow through the hose, and the impeller is working propperly.

The only way to check the impeller is to drop the lower unit and pull the impeller housing and visually inspect it.

And yes not having water leak from where you indicated is correct I believe.

I just had a thought if the impeller was changed and the woodruff key was left out or installed improperly this would prevent the impeller from turning while the engine is running. Just one more thing to be aware of.

 

[NEKFORCE]

I see, well i guess i could let it idle for a long time and see if it overheats? you say on the muffs it should just idle forever and not overheat correct?
I will need to see about how to take apart the impeller housing and check the impeller. I know one of the screws everyone says do NOT take it out since it holds the shifting mechanism.

 

[Tnstratofam]

There is a sticky at the top of the forum that gives instructions on how to replace the impeller. Also you should pick up a factory service manual for your motor they are invaluable in doing your own repair work. The Clymer and Seloc manuals are good for drink coasters at best so try to find a factory manual. Evilbay is where I bought mine.

If your motor is overheating with good water pressure on muffs there is a flow problem somewhere, or the motor is running to lean. I saw in another thread you posted carb adjustments. Be careful you don't run your motor to lean as this can cause it to overheat as well.

If it is overheating at a little throttle increase I would not run it long at idle or otherwise until I narrowed down why it's overheating.

 

[NEKFORCE]

yes i have the factory manual i used on the rebuild. i do not beleive its running too lean, i beleive its a flow issue.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The picture: the water level needs to be 3-4" above the cavitation plate.
The pump is not a self priming pump.
Needs to be under water to initially pump water.
​After it starts to run it will draw water.

The muffs?? what kind? Picture?
​Maybe use duct tape to seal it in place?? it needs to be dry for the tape to stick.

​On the muffs: how much water is coming out the snout as it runs?

 

[bentle]

Can you confirm the thermostat is functioning properly? After sitting for a year then a start with overheating would indicate a bad impeller, impeller housing gasket leaking. If there wasn't water getting to the impeller then it will need replaced. I personally would only run with the muffs with full water preasure, my experience with running in a tub created so much water turbulence that the impeller wasn't able to pull the needed water thus creating overheating and destroyed impeller. Pull your lower unit and inspect your impeller right away cause to much overheating may ruin other expensive parts of your motor.

 

[NEKFORCE]

Can you confirm the thermostat is functioning properly? After sitting for a year then a start with overheating would indicate a bad impeller, impeller housing gasket leaking. If there wasn't water getting to the impeller then it will need replaced. I personally would only run with the muffs with full water preasure, my experience with running in a tub created so much water turbulence that the impeller wasn't able to pull the needed water thus creating overheating and destroyed impeller. Pull your lower unit and inspect your impeller right away cause to much overheating may ruin other expensive parts of your motor.

Also, Unless its in the leg of the motor, this engine does not have a thermostat. I know some do and even have a air perge on the housing and you can teses if water is circulating. this one does not have a thermostat on the motor..

I actually had the muffs on in the tub as well. Not sure where the cavation plate / its height is. But these are cheap ebay 13:00 black plastic one inlet muffs.
I am currently waiting for a new impeller kit, mabye ill just back the whole boat in the water and try running it on the trailer after.
the buzzer started for like half a second, the motor is a fresh rebuild and did not run hot long enough to hurt it. So where is this cavation plate?

The picture: the water level needs to be 3-4" above the cavitation plate. .........not sure of its location, I thought the intake was only down the bottom.
The pump is not a self priming pump.
Needs to be under water to initially pump water. Had it on buffs and hose on under water in bucket mabye not deep enough?.
​After it starts to run it will draw water.

The muffs?? what kind? Picture? Cheap 13 dollar ones one inlet from ebay..
​Maybe use duct tape to seal it in place?? it needs to be dry for the tape to stick.

​On the muffs: how much water is coming out the snout as it runs? I dont think any...

 

[jerryjerry05]

The snout is on the bottom of the cavitation plate.
The impeller sets up 2-3" above the plate.
​Plate needs to be 3-4 " under water for the pump to work.

 

[bentle]

No Title

What year is your Force or Chrysler motor by the way?