Impeller o-ring leaking, 2nd time this season. Thicker o-ring?

scooper77515

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Beginning of the summer season, I replaced all rubber hoses, impeller, and leaky o-ring. Used it 3 times this summer, and today, after 2 months sitting, the o-ring is leaking again.

Should I look for a slightly thicker 0-ring? Or should I look at some other cause of the problem?

Just a slight drip that flings along my fan belt, and drips out the bottom weep hole when the engine is off.

Pic and boat model and description below.

Also, since you are looking at the picture, should the impeller be installed with the brass insert toward the engine?
 

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wkb2460

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Did you replace the shaft seal?
It could be coming from the shaft seal and not the o ring
 

scooper77515

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No, maybe that is my problem. I just assumed the water was coming from the impeller housing.

I see nothing in the repair manual about a shaft seal. Any details would be appreciated. Part numbers?
 
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scooper77515

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I wouldn't think so. It works fine, and has low hours. Less than 200 (which means very little, I know). Pump works great other than the drip out the bottom.

I will look more closely next time I am at the storage unit.
 

achris

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If the 'O' ring is same size as original, look for another problem. Like a distorted base...
 

scooper77515

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Yeah, I checked out both surfaces and they seem (eyeballed) smooth and even. O-ring is from Volvo dealer, and does not appear distorted or pinched or bound. Pump flows perfectly and keeps engine at nice cool operating temperature.

If it is the shaft seal, would the shaft have play I could feel by hand? I see no visible wear on anything. This engine still looks new-from-factory.
 

scooper77515

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OK, bit the bullet, and purchased an entire new pump, impeller, housing, etc kit. $399 OUCH!!! :eek:

But what good is the boat if I cannot take it out and it is taking on water, right?
 

Thalasso

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OK, bit the bullet, and purchased an entire new pump, impeller, housing, etc kit. $399 OUCH!!! :eek:

But what good is the boat if I cannot take it out and it is taking on water, right?

Good way of looking at it. I look at it that way. Doesn't hurt as much.
 
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Tail_Gunner

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OK, bit the bullet, and purchased an entire new pump, impeller, housing, etc kit. $399 OUCH!!! :eek:

But what good is the boat if I cannot take it out and it is taking on water, right?

Before you install the new pump actually take your hand and see if you can turn the bearing. If it is froze that is what cause's the seals to leak...now why that is I do not know but it does. Below is the bearing quite a hefty bearing for such a small pump

waterpump004.jpg
 
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dypcdiver

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Bearing and seal usually cost less than $40. Your choice.
Plenty of posts on this forum giving the references to the bearings and the seal, the "search" button at the top should help.
 
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Saline Marina

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That 6006-2RS (2 Rubber Seals suffix) is just a garden variety ball bearing. Its the ability to do some press-work with something like an arbor press which will set a good build apart. Ideally one machines (or buys) an adapter which only pushes on the inner or outer race (depending on which one is being assembled). In other words you don't want to press on the inner race to extract the outer race as the sideways load will damage the internals of the bearing (by brinnelling the bearing balls sideways into the races as they are a point load situation). I've spent many hours machining bushings and pins on a lathe to do just the above type of stuff on many types of equipment other than boats. As mentioned in another post if the seal has worn a groove in the shaft, that's more challenging to fix. One could theoretically attempt a SKF Speedi-Sleeve repair of the shaft but that has its own set of details.
 
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scooper77515

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My main problem is that the boat is kept in storage near our lake's point of entry, about 30 minutes from home. Around my work schedule, it would take me several trips and several weekends to take the old pump off, repair it, and reinstall it and put in the water to test it. I have all the tools needed to repair it, and I may repair the old one and keep on hand for future use, if needed, but for now, boat season is quickly cooling off so I need to spend weekends ON the water, not NEAR it making repairs.

Here in Southeast Texas, we can only use the boat in spring and fall. Summer months are literally too hot to be on or in the water, so now that we are getting cool fronts, weekends on the water are optimal And I don't work on the boat during the summer, either. So I really needed to buy the pump and get it installed and boat in water this weekend.

That said...thanks for the above picture...I haven't had a chance to look at my pump's installation, and now I see I need to take allen sockets/wrenches with me to replace my pump. That would have set me back another weekend if I showed up without the correct tools to repair the boat. And I would have been very frustrated and upset wasting ONE MORE WEEKEND not getting the boat fixed and driving back and forth with that intention.
 

scooper77515

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OK, thanks again! I have metric wrenches but not socket (I think). Might invest in sockets between now and this weekend.
 

dypcdiver

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8mm is what you need and a short length of pipe as they are tight!
As a matter of interest a 5/16th Allen key is only .0025" smaller and will do if needed.
 
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scooper77515

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I stopped by the boat on the way home, and was able to bust one loose, and had the correct Allen socket. Yes...tight. Should I loc-tite it when I put it back on? Or just crank it tight?
 

dypcdiver

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I did mine up with approx. 50 lb/ft of torque and no Loctite, six years later they are still there!
 

jerryjerry05

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You mentioned a "weep hole"
Where is this located?
Pics?
Not sure, but not positive there is a weep hole on your pump??
 
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