In-water prop change

Beefer

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Messages
1,737
Prop-noob here. I've never changed a prop before, and want to now. The boat is wet-slipped. The water is only about 3' deep at low, so I figure I'll change it in the water. Only problem (maybe a problem) is that with the tilt all the way up, the prop is still submerged. Is this a problem? What do I need to know? Other then a prop wrench, what will I need? Thanks!
 

Fed

Commander
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
Re: In-water prop change

Screwdriver & pliers to get the locking tab thingy & or split pin.
Maybe a spare locking tab thingy & or split pin.
A lump of wood to stick between the prop & vent plate to undo & do up the nut.
A hammer to use with the wood if the prop is a bit tight.
Some w/proof grease.
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
Re: In-water prop change

Just did that Sunday! Wear some water shoes if it's a bumpy or sharp rock bottom. I stood in muddy sand to change mine, only problem I had was my feet kept getting stuck in the bottom. I have tried to change a prop on the anchor before. That is a pain cause the boat won't really stay put like it will on the dock lines. If you are really unsure of yourself you could bring diver's goggles so you can see how well the keeper tabs are seated. Those floating prop wrenches are kind of handy for this operation. I have one & it makes things a little easier because it has a tab hook for the keeper tabs.
 

paultjohnson

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Messages
1,560
Re: In-water prop change

What else will you need ? All the little washers that come with a merc floating prop wrench, Along with the diagram of how they go on. You want a full set of replacement parts so when u drop em in the water and cant find em ,you have spares. If your at a marina Maybe a friend can walk u thru it on land first. Sometimes its a little tricky IMO to get the little tab on the lockwasher lined up with the grooves in the [keeper ?] It is rather simple. but if you cant see what your doing, and you have never done it....You could lose your prop Put it in reverse and zing... C YA :eek: sum bch
 

Fed

Commander
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
Re: In-water prop change

You could beach the boat and wait for the tide to go out but then you would have to add 2 slabs of beer to your parts list and a mate you help you drink them.
 

truckermatt

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Messages
384
Re: In-water prop change

i changed my prop in the middle of the lake already.. Luckily my wellcraft tilts the motor high enough to be halfway out of the water.. I just sat on the swim platform and used my trusty prop wrench....
 

Brewman61

Ensign
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
996
Re: In-water prop change

You could beach the boat and wait for the tide to go out but then you would have to add 2 slabs of beer to your parts list and a mate you help you drink them.

I'm not familiar with metric beer. How many cans in a slab? ;):)
 

Fed

Commander
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
Re: In-water prop change

Still using 24 to the slab down here Brewman.
 

Lyle29464

Lieutenant
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
1,261
Re: In-water prop change

be sure and check your thrust washer to make sure it fits the new prop like it did the old one. You can make a $$$$ mistake here.
 

raysprops

Cadet
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
12
Re: In-water prop change

The big trick is not losing the parts. Place a rag on the swim grid or another FLAT location at the stern that you will be able to reach when you are in the water. Bend up the lock tabs, undo the nut and place them on the rag, then remove the washer(fixed hub ) or drive adapter(slide in hub kit) and place it on the rag, then slide the prop part way off the shaft and then slip one hand between the prop and the housing with the shaft between the middle fingers so if the thrust washer comes with the prop or the drive sleeve is loose in the prop you won't lose them. When you get the prop off turn it leg end up and keep it that way til you're out of the water.Iinstallation is the reverse of this process, except if the thrust washer came off with the prop it should be put on the shaft (Right Way Up) first.
 

Lyle29464

Lieutenant
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
1,261
Re: In-water prop change

Still using 24 to the slab down here Brewman.

Our store sells Foster in a 32 oz can. Do you guys really buy a "SLAB" of that?

Can your wemmn's carry a slab of Foster?
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: In-water prop change

A spool of twine comes in handy to keep props and tools from sinking to the bottom. Just tie a line around the prop and tie it to the boat, same with the hand tools. So when you do drop something (and it will happen) it won't sink to the bottom.
 

380voltz

Seaman
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
64
Re: In-water prop change

just like mark said ... tie all tools securely and that means they are looped thru your hand so they can never fall.
use a basket , the type that has a `plastic boundary` so when u open it , the opening is firm wide open. it might not hold a split pin as it might pass thru the holes, but any bolts or washers .. yes.
get a friend to hold the open basket underneath and make sure the basket is tied and secure to him/her.
I donno how deep or how big your prop is, however ideally u shld each breathe thru a small scuba tank and reg so the job is now really easy.
this is the way any in-water maintenance is done on any size vessel from boats to super tankers.
take safety precautions without question especially if there is someone on the boat.
this means
1 remove the key from ignition
2 disconnect battery
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: In-water prop change

just like mark said ... tie all tools securely and that means they are looped thru your hand so they can never fall.......

The last time I had to work on the power head on the water was an un-planned maintenance schedule (AKA - darn thing broke down). Didn't have any string in the boat, but there was a small fishing rod, and the light weight line from the that rod was just the ticket. Even tied the bolt with line in case I dropped it too. Everything worked out perfect. And I did drop the bolt about three times. It didn't fall in the water, but fell into the lower unit housing. Pretty much the same result because the bolt could not be retrieved from the lower unit outer housing without complete disassemble of the lower unit. Also tied the line to an open end wrench. That light weight line was just the ticket to keep the tools safe.

Just something to keep in mind if/when you break down.
 
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