Inboard outboard air cooled engine

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Been out in the garage tonight tearing down the lower unit getting ready to replace the seals and so forth. Next will be to attach some mounting plates to the inside of the hull, then I will be ready to bolt the lower unit into place. I would like to be able to remove the lower unit somewhat easily for repairs if necessary but read that 4200 can be about as hard to remove as 5200 any ideas on what to use for a water tight seal?
 

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MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Been out in the garage tonight tearing down the lower unit getting ready to replace the seals and so forth. Next will be to attach some mounting plates to the inside of the hull, then I will be ready to bolt the lower unit into place. I would like to be able to remove the lower unit somewhat easily for repairs if necessary but read that 4200 can be about as hard to remove as 5200 any ideas on what to use for a water tight seal?

I think both of those are pretty permanent, maybe you could use a large heavy rubber O-ring type seal, with the L.U. bolted hard against the hull. By the way, just curious is that a shear pin type prop?
 

Lone Duck

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

If your box the engine sits on is water tight to the hull your lower unit won't have to be. assuming of course that the top of box( engine stand is above the water line and your oil drain cut out is also. In fact you should be able to put engine through top of box . Then connect L U . then lower top of box with set up on it. Bolt the whole thing to the box and then bolt the L U plate you made to the hull. The sides of the box where it sits on the hull is where it will have to be sealed. Make the box and the hole in the hull large enough so the unit can drop in from the top. After make a plate to slip onto your lower unit from the bottom with a few bolts to hold unit steady. Some flat bottom 20 plus ft. fishing boats were made this way . in fact they cut a hole in hull and attached an 60 plus out board in it and left the top of box open so they could tilt the engine when landing through the surf. goggle glen-L - marine and look at the Hunky dory . there are a lot of dories built this way.
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I think both of those are pretty permanent, maybe you could use a large heavy rubber O-ring type seal, with the L.U. bolted hard against the hull. By the way, just curious is that a shear pin type prop?
It is a shear pin prop!
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Here's a link from Glen L Marine a boatbuilding site with couplings, rudders, rudder arms, and rudder mounting assemblies, plus a bunch of other items. One reason I put this here is to give you an idea of how big, and what style, a rudder you should make. They're couplings are strong, & solid looking:
"http://www.boatdesigns.com/departments.asp?dept=35"
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Made a little more progress on the "SHAKER" today! Built the motor mount! Probably will make the top out of two peices of plywood so that I can access the coupling better when installing. I ended up with about 1/4 in. gap between the two shafts. This can be adjusted if needed! Next is to finish things up on the mount. Some glass work and a couple more peices of bracing,Still need to attach the front brace that you see with the gap in it to the mount, it is just wedged between the mount and seat for now. I know it doesn't look like a lot to talk about, but with the angles of the floor and the stern it took all afternoon to build the mount to the point that it is now, it took a lot of trial fitting to get things right! Here are a few pictures of the motor mount, shaft conection and motor in the position that it will sit.:)
 

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Lone Duck

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

There you go . It's coming along. looking good .
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Wow! a lotta work there! lookin good tho! Well Done! Man, that spark plug is gonna be close, hope it don't hit anything? but, you don't need to change it much anyway, maybe once a season.
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

There's actually about two inches of space to get at the spark plug, more than I had thought there would be. A deep spark plug socket that a wrench will fit on will work fine for changing the plug!:)
 

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MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Just a suggestion, if you're gonna use lag bolts to fasten the motor with a ratchet, & socket, predrill them 1st. with a pilot hole to help keep the wood from splitting, unless you plan on bolting it down somehow?
 

Lone Duck

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I would use some 1/4" flat or angle alum or steel. and use bolts.
 

drewmitch44

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

You got to get a little video of it in the water when you get it going. I Cant wait to see what happens!! Good luck! Any progress on your center console boat?
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

You got to get a little video of it in the water when you get it going. I Cant wait to see what happens!! Good luck! Any progress on your center console boat?
I was thinking about getting the wife to video my first test run when the time comes. Probably in the spring! By the time I get home from work days it's dark, so most of the work on the center console is done on the weekends according to the weather. I'm about ready to start building the bulkhead and bowcap, just have to get the extra time and good weather to get it going!:)
 

drewmitch44

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I just got one of those solar powered wind chimes. Then im gong to hang my motor with duct tape. Then im going to put a mouse driven wheel under the cowling and take out my V-4 powerhead and put the mouse driven wheel in there. I was getting tired of servicing the oil injection anyways. The mouse on the wheel has less weight than the 4 strokes. and then im going to put the impeller from my bilge pump on the lower unit and mount the prop on the bilge pump so it will pump more water out of the hull if i get swamped from the mouse and wheel. That mouse sometimes will just stop and water splashes over my transom. I tell you what though he can get going at about 4500 SPM (Steps Per Minute). I have been giving him synthetic food and since i switched to synthetic food ill never look back!! His name is herman! And I Love Him!!!
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

That's it, Drewmitch has finally lost it :eek: Hurry, get the guys in the white coats, and the jacket that buttons in the back :D
 

drewmitch44

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I think i been inhailing too much glass dust during my rebuild!!! I think i have lost it!!! If we dont go crazy once in a whyle we will all go crazy!! And just for the record the mouse and wheel really does weigh less than the 4 strokes!! And he smokes less eating the synthetic food! And i tried out the prop-bilge impeller switch and it jumps his SPM up too high. He is stepping like about 6000 steps per min. I think he will die sooner if i leave it like that. I Love Herman so i got to figure something out!!!!!!
 

drewmitch44

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

That was funny though!!! I dont know what i was thinking the night i posted that!! I cracked up the next morning when i read that!! what the hell was i thinking!! Anyway its working pretty well with the wheel. Its really a little slower with the mouse running on the wheel but its a lot lighter. I have a second mouse in case herman kicks it. If it is getting close to the end of the day i can use the second mouse as bait! Herman likes to rest after about 30 min running at wot. He gets tired and needs fresh water too cool off. He runs his *** off though! What a great mouse!!.
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Did a little more work on the boat tonight! Made two metal brackets from an old bed frame to fasten the lower unit to so that it will be sturdy. Took the end bracket from the bed frame and secured the box to the seat, there is a heavy raised lip that attaches to the seat, so that gave something solid to fasten the front of the box to. Next will be to turn the boat over and align the lower unit and fasten it into place, then I can upright the boat and drill the metal frames and connect the lower unit into place from the inside. Just in case your wondering, the red material I used for the top of the box, is the doors from my old cuddy cabin, it,s marine plywood covered in something like formica. I made the top in two peices so that I will be able to access the shaft conection! After all of the peices were fastened together with stainless steel fasteners it's a studry box, was suprised at how sturdy it turned out!

Here's a couple of pictures of my progress!:)
 

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MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Lookin Real Good Maxum!!! I just hope you're fastening the motor into wood, not metal, because it will act as a shock absorber, and have less of a chance of vibrating, & coming loose. So, you're doing such a good job, when you get this boat done are you gonna make one for me just like it? :D then patent it? ;)
 
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