Inboard transom question

[J. Mark]

I am working on a 1988 Marlin inboard ski boat. The transom is shot and I have 95% of it removed. Waiting til I can pull the engine and driveline to do the rest, but have a simple question.

The transom was a 3/4 layer of ply that was 3 separate pieces to match the curvature of the rear of the boat. When I build and install the new transom, is there any reason to beef this up, or just go back with one of the same basic set up?

It doesn't seen that it has the stresses that an IO or an outboard, but I'm new yo inboards.

 

[proshadetree]

Re: Inboard transom question

Add as much beef as you can its insurance.Repairing a boat is not a science but I would overbuild as it will only make it last longer.Just make sure it all fits if doing from inside as you'll need all your mounts to line up.

 

[J. Mark]

Re: Inboard transom question

There are no mounts to the transom as the engine rests on the stringer and the driveshaft goes through the bottom of the hull on an inboard. The only things that mount to the transom are the ski tow eye and the two tie down hooks. I'm inclined to overbuild, but I don't think the transom on an inboard really gets much in the way of a load, especially since I intend to ski of the center mounted pylon unless it is just the kids skiing

I think I am going to laminate 2 layers of 3/4 marine ply, and give it a good coat of glass and matt before I install it.

And yes, I am cutting it out from the inside. Cutting is a generous term though, I was able to remove all but a single ply of wood with my bare hands and a few minutes with a putty knife. Thankfully the center stringers are better and the outboard ones are simply mush and just mostly scoop out

My neighbor has been around boats his whole life and the worse the wood was the happier I got. He was confused by this until I pulled out three feet of stringer in about 30 seconds and explained. The worse it is the easier the teardown and if I am going to do anything, I am going to do it all and do it right.

 

[salty87]

Re: Inboard transom question

i'd rebuild with the same and worry more about getting it sealed better than the factory did. you're right about the stresses on inboard transoms. i got lucky with my rebuild, transom was solid.

 

[J. Mark]

Re: Inboard transom question

Thanks. I think I am going to go with your advice as I was sort of leaning that way and it will keep me from having hardware that is too short when I reuse some of the stuff like the tie down loops and the exhaust flapper mounts

Just need a little more time to get to everything-that or more money to pay someone . . . nah

 

[oops!]

Re: Inboard transom question

the rule of thumb is to duplicate what was there.......and make it better....

i totally agree with encapsulating it better.......make sure the thru hulls are sealed and any eye hook holes are done in such a way that water cannot get to the wood.

transoms on inboards dont see much stress.....but i would build it as if they did......standard tabbing procedures