Indecision on brakes

Matthew_B

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Jun 8, 2007
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I have recently acquired a new to me 18 ft Glaspar boat with a single axle trailer. The trailer does not currently have brakes. The boat with trailer is around 3,500 lbs, even more if I am hauling it behind my camper because I also use the boat as hauler for all the extras when camping.

I would like to add brakes, but I can't decide between electric or surge brakes. I will put the boat in fresh water most of the time and occasionally into salt water.

One concern I have with surge brakes, particularly drums, would be how hot they will get when using a exhaust brake. My truck can hold 60 MPH going down a 6% grade without having to hit the service brakes. But will a set of surge brakes be dragging the whole time I'm using a exhaust brake and overheat? Or is that a urban legend? Anyone have experience with this? I figure ventilated disks wouldn't ever overheat but I don't want to spend that much on this cheap of a boat.
 

JB

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45,907
Re: Indecision on brakes

All brakes turn momentum into heat. Disks can usually handle heat better than drums without fading but they still get hot and can still overheat.

Electrics would not engage unless you step on the brake pedal, and the actuator can be adjusted in real time for the degree of braking.

Good surge brakes can be adjusted for the amount of force from the trailer needed to engage them, but not in real time.

It is good that you intend to install brakes because they are almost certainly required by law wherever you live. The law usually gets enforced AFTER the crash.

For the varying conditions you tow in I think I would go with electric or electric actuated hydraulic SS disks.
 

bruceb58

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Re: Indecision on brakes

I have vented disc brakes with an electric/hydraulic actuator on my trailer. For your light boat, I would go either to the discs or drums and just go surge hydraulic. I would not go electric.

If you go down a steep hill with the engine doing the braking, the surge brakes will be actuated somewhat...that is the disadvantage of surge brakes.

I would stay away from the TieDown stainless steel disc brakes becuase they are not vented. I bought them and had them one year before I switched over to Kodiak vented steel brakes.
 

Matthew_B

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Re: Indecision on brakes

Thanks both Bruce and JB,

I've been researching a little more (mostly online) and I'm surprised how much the galvanized electric and hydraulic drum brakes cost. Are there cheaper electric brakes out there I'm not seeing? What I'm seeing is ballpark $350, compared to ~$175 for painted electric brakes.

What I have found is within $50 or so of a set of ventilated disks. Since I plan to put into saltwater sometimes, I don't think I want painted brakes. At that little of a price difference I think I'm going with the disks.

Bruce: Tie-down now has ventilated disks. A local boat shop can get the entire kit for $410. That includes the coupler, lines, and an actuator with a reverse solenoid. Non-ventilated is $380.
 

Wotam

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Jul 22, 2007
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108
Re: Indecision on brakes

Whatever you do, go disc. Less maintenance and with drums you never know what's going on inside.
 

bruceb58

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Re: Indecision on brakes

Bruce: Tie-down now has ventilated disks. A local boat shop can get the entire kit for $410. That includes the coupler, lines, and an actuator with a reverse solenoid. Non-ventilated is $380.

Yes..they have had them for awhile. They are not stainless though.

Personally, For a vented steel disc brake, I would still get the Kodiaks:
http://www.championtrailers.com/KODIAC DISC BRAKE KITS.htm
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Indecision on brakes

that much weight, you might consider a tandum axle trailer. that a lot on 2 tires.
 

rndn

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May 20, 2007
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Re: Indecision on brakes

That's a great last point. You may just be better off to get a tandom axel trailer with the braks already incorporated into the trailer. 3500# is a lot to ask out of one axel and by your own admission you add more weight to the boat when pulling it with your motor home.
 

Matthew_B

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Jun 8, 2007
Messages
51
Re: Indecision on brakes

Wotam: I'm only seeing a $50 to $70 difference between galvanized drums and discs. Not worth it to me to not just put disks on. I'm definitely not putting painted drums on the trailer, even though they are real cheap.

Bruceb:

I didn't catch that the ventilated tie-down disks are galvanized. The solid disks are 304 SS, but not the ventilated.

The Kodiak's you listed are plated steel. Is silver cadmium any better than GalvX? Worth at least $250 more? With either, I imagine the area in the pad wear path is going to be bare steel after a while and is going to rust when not used.

Kodiak's with stainless steel discs are going to set me back $300 per wheel. Probably about $750 to $800 vs. $400 for the tie downs once all the parts are bought.

As far as a tandem: What's the problem as long as I'm under the tire, wheel & bearing weight rating? Tires are 2,100 lb each.

I have a tandem axle flat bed that's rated at 14,000 gross. Each axle is good for 7,000 lbs. Is 7,000 lbs to much for one axle?
 

bruceb58

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Re: Indecision on brakes

You are correct about the silver cad wearing off and being down to bare steel. The only thing the plating is doing is protecting all the other parts. When I launch in salt water, I am very careful in washing down each disc on both sides. I actually purchased the cheaper version of the Kodiaks that have a different coating on them. They are doing just fine with salt water dunkings and careful washing. I felt the extra cost of the stainless Kodiaks was not worth it.

Axles come with various load ratings. For example, there are many single axle trailers with higer load ratings because they come with axles rated at 5200# or 6000#. Your axle is most likely rated for 3500#. In theory, your total load could be higher that 3500# because 10% of the weight is on the hitch if the weight is distributed correctly.

What size tires are you running? Max capacity of a load range C 14" tire will be 1870#.
 

Matthew_B

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Jun 8, 2007
Messages
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Re: Indecision on brakes

The wheels are 15" load range C. The hub is a 5 on 4.5 so I'm inclined to think that the axle is rated at 3500 lbs, but I'm not certain since there isn't a tag on the trailer or axle. Usually if it's over 3500 lbs they go to a 6 on 5.5 from what I've seen.
 
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