Installed Pertronix ignitor. Now rough idle

Scott373

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Sep 21, 2022
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Hello, I have been reading threads here for the past year and have learned a lot. I finally decided it was time to register. I have a 1983 Mercruiser 120. After dealing with a no spark issue that I could not figure out despite installing new plugs, distributor cap and rotor, wires, points and condenser, I decided to ditch the points all together. I installed the Pertronix Ignitor 1 this afternoon and it fired right up. I spliced into the electric choke wire to feed 12 volts to the coil. I'm running the stock coil, but I ordered a Flame thrower coil. Now the engine starts very easy on muffs but the idle seems very rough. If I give it throttle it smooths out. I let it warm up but at operating temperature it still has the very rough idle. I've only had this boat on the water once since I bought it before it developed the no spark issue and I don't remember the idle being this bad. Did I wire something wrong or could this be a timing issue?
 

ROY WILLIAMS

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Aug 8, 2022
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422
you have to adjust the timing when you change the pertronix 1146a...
also the positive ignition coil , engine runs is 9.5volts dc .. my MCM470 has a resistor wire ...engine runs 9.5 volts ....then I changed the correct timing when the pertronix changes the timing .. then set it ,, the engine spec timing .
I changed the spark plug wires 20K v...high voltage double.... the points is 10KV..
 

Scott373

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This leads me to ask another dumb question. I bought a timing light, hooked the inductor onto the #1 spark plug wire. When I looked at the timing pointer with the timing light on the crank pulley the only mark I could see was on the outer lip of the pulley. Is that where the mark should be? I've never adjusted timing so I'm not 100% sure what I'm looking at.
 

Scott373

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I forgot to add that I disconnected and capped the resistor wire and tucked under just in case I ever need again
 

airshot

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Did you follow proper idle adjustment of the carb !? Air mix and idle speed needs to be adjusted in the water while underway according to manual
 

ROY WILLIAMS

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This leads me to ask another dumb question. I bought a timing light, hooked the inductor onto the #1 spark plug wire. When I looked at the timing pointer with the timing light on the crank pulley the only mark I could see was on the outer lip of the pulley. Is that where the mark should be? I've never adjusted timing so I'm not 100% sure what I'm looking at.
the crank shaft pulley is the mark ..then the ignition timing marker is on the engine , the RPM is 600-1100 RPM ..I used a white paint on the marker ..
the 1983 120HP is around 4 deg..distributor is moving a small amount of rotation ,, to adjust it ..in todays world the gasoline is not lead in it ...timing is changed ..
then adjust the carb RPM engine ,, then see if its the correct timing ..
 
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ROY WILLIAMS

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 8, 2022
Messages
422
This leads me to ask another dumb question. I bought a timing light, hooked the inductor onto the #1 spark plug wire. When I looked at the timing pointer with the timing light on the crank pulley the only mark I could see was on the outer lip of the pulley. Is that where the mark should be? I've never adjusted timing so I'm not 100% sure what I'm looking at.
I did the service bulletin that change the gas ...

Technical Bulletin
1/06
Revised Initial Ignition Timing For
MerCruiser 3.7L Engines
The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information regarding revised initial
ignition timing for MerCruiser 3.7L engines. This revision is to help prevent engine dam-
age due to the unknown quality of gasoline being used today.
Since the decline of gasoline quality over the past number of years, it has been recommend-
ed by Mercury Marine to set the initial timing at 4° BTDC. This is in place of the original
factory setting of 8° BTDC, which is also published in the older factory service manuals.
Doing so will make the engine more tolerant of today’s unknown quality gasoline, with an
unnoticeable change in engine performance.
Engines were originally set at 8° BTDC and piston failures in the #1 and #4 cylinders were
common. The root cause of those failures is the unknown quality of gasoline for the amount
of ignition timing and compression being used. The poorer the quality of gasoline, the more
likely a piston will burn. Poor fuel burns differently, and in these cases, it has caused pis-
ton failures that appear like over-advanced ignition timing. Due to the quality of gasoline
declining over time, and the resulting engine failures, the initial timing should be set to 4°
BTDC for these engines.
MerCruiser refers to the 3.7L engine as 3.7 LX, MIE 470, MCM 470, 485, 488, 165, 170, 180
and 190. The timing information has been updated in current MerCruiser factory service
manuals published after 1987.
 

Bluedaffy

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May 27, 2022
Messages
9
Hi Scott. I have a knock-off electronic pickup that I believe has the same circuit requirements as the ignitor 1. I had idle issues before learning that the sensor needs full 12V (but not over 12V). The way I had inherited the boat, the previous owner connected the resistor wire from the choke to the ballast resistor that comes with the electronic pickup kit which was then connected to the sensor in the distributor. With this setup, by the time it reached the sensor it was ~6V after having gone through the resistance wire and then through the external ballast resistor. I tried to splice from the choke, but still got only 10V at the sensor (not sure why...). Then I finally decided to run a dedicated wire straight from the ignition to the external ballast resistor and then to the sensor. This finally fixed my idling issues.

FYI--even though the wire straight from the ignition was reading 12.# volts, the external ballast resistor was necessary because while the engine is running that wire would have been 14.# volts which would have been too much for the sensor. I think a lot of folks get confused thinking that they need to knock down the 12V for the sensor on these things, when in reality the sensor needs 12V and the external ballast is there to KEEP the voltage around 12V while the engine is running. Not sure if this helps, but I chased this very nuanced issue for a good while.
 

ROY WILLIAMS

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Messages
422
Hi Scott. I have a knock-off electronic pickup that I believe has the same circuit requirements as the ignitor 1. I had idle issues before learning that the sensor needs full 12V (but not over 12V). The way I had inherited the boat, the previous owner connected the resistor wire from the choke to the ballast resistor that comes with the electronic pickup kit which was then connected to the sensor in the distributor. With this setup, by the time it reached the sensor it was ~6V after having gone through the resistance wire and then through the external ballast resistor. I tried to splice from the choke, but still got only 10V at the sensor (not sure why...). Then I finally decided to run a dedicated wire straight from the ignition to the external ballast resistor and then to the sensor. This finally fixed my idling issues.

FYI--even though the wire straight from the ignition was reading 12.# volts, the external ballast resistor was necessary because while the engine is running that wire would have been 14.# volts which would have been too much for the sensor. I think a lot of folks get confused thinking that they need to knock down the 12V for the sensor on these things, when in reality the sensor needs 12V and the external ballast is there to KEEP the voltage around 12V while the engine is running. Not sure if this helps, but I chased this very nuanced issue for a good while.
you bought the boat in the spring . 3.7 eng .1989 ,, did you inspect the igniter .. or the distributor points . or the electronic ignition ..
inspect the timing .
engine ignition is updated ?
 

Bluedaffy

Cadet
Joined
May 27, 2022
Messages
9
you bought the boat in the spring . 3.7 eng .1989 ,, did you inspect the igniter .. or the distributor points . or the electronic ignition ..
inspect the timing .
engine ignition is updated ?
I’m not the OP, I do not have idling problems. I was just contributing my experience on what fixed an idling issue for me in case it might be useful information for the OP.
 

ROY WILLIAMS

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 8, 2022
Messages
422
I’m not the OP, I do not have idling problems. I was just contributing my experience on what fixed an idling issue for me in case it might be useful information for the OP.
did you inspect the engine electrical components that post on the forum ..
info of the ignition components ?
 

Scott373

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Joined
Sep 21, 2022
Messages
4
you bought the boat in the spring . 3.7 eng .1989 ,, did you inspect the igniter .. or the distributor points . or the electronic ignition ..
inspect the timing .
engine ignition is updated ?
I bought the boat this spring. It's the 2.5l. It ran great the first few times then developed the no spark issue. The points looked ok but I changed them, the condenser, the spark plugs, plug wires, distributer cap and rotor. Still no spark. So I swapped the coil out. Still no luck. I installed this electronic ignition conversion and it fired right up. The idle is rough but smooths out I throttle up. I haven't had a chance to look into it again since I started this thread. I swear it has rained every day off I've had since installing the conversion.
 

Bondo

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Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,083
I bought the boat this spring. It's the 2.5l. It ran great the first few times then developed the no spark issue. The points looked ok but I changed them, the condenser, the spark plugs, plug wires, distributer cap and rotor. Still no spark. So I swapped the coil out. Still no luck. I installed this electronic ignition conversion and it fired right up. The idle is rough but smooths out I throttle up. I haven't had a chance to look into it again since I started this thread. I swear it has rained every day off I've had since installing the conversion.
Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... The hi-lighted sentence suggests a fuel issue, not spark,....
 

ROY WILLIAMS

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Messages
422
I bought the boat this spring. It's the 2.5l. It ran great the first few times then developed the no spark issue. The points looked ok but I changed them, the condenser, the spark plugs, plug wires, distributer cap and rotor. Still no spark. So I swapped the coil out. Still no luck. I installed this electronic ignition conversion and it fired right up. The idle is rough but smooths out I throttle up. I haven't had a chance to look into it again since I started this thread. I swear it has rained every day off I've had since installing the conversion.
did you update the pertronix ? then the positive coil is engine running to the 9.5 volts on the coil positive.. then you have to change the engine timing ... the idle is rpm rough so also do the next adjust carb mixture ...
the points are around 10-12Kv spark .. then the pertronix is 20-25KV .. cylinders pull the plugs out see if its a carbon tip on the plugs ... the dist points are a lot of carbon ...
my spark plugs are like new a very light brown tip area...
 
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