Instant power loss @ 3/4 throttle

Bluedaffy

Cadet
Joined
May 27, 2022
Messages
9
Got a 180 HP 3.7LX in the spring. First time on the lake I noticed 3 things that landed outside the range of what I would consider normal functioning or performance. 1) Overcharging, 2) poor warm idle (for example, cuts out when waiting in line at the dock), and 3) no WOT. The only remaining problem (for now🤞) is no WOT, and boy has it been a head scratcher.

Here is what happens when advancing the throttle:
0 - 1/2 throttle: big torque, jumps up on plane
1/2 - 3/4 throttle: speed increases consistent with throttle
Trim up: speed and RPMs increase until maxing out at the sweet spot around 3800 on the dash tach
3/4+ throttle: instantaneous bog with a linear power loss the farther past 3/4 throttle you go.

No transition, no stumbling, just an infinite boggy groan. If you pull back on the throttle even a cm, immediately jumps back to life. It does not take a second or two to "catch up" after doing this, it picks up right where it left off. This happens at precisely the same point whether you approach 3/4 throttle slowly and gingerly or at a medium-fast rate (like you might for most towables). Not accelerator pump for many reasons. The fact that this happens at the same throttle position so precisely and predictably whether warm or cold, pre or post carb cleaning, with on-boat fuel or auxiliary tank fuel, etc. leads me to believe the underlying issue is mechanistic (for lack of a better term). In other words, something different happens at that point that wasn't happening at all or to any degree before reaching that point. With that in mind I've narrowed it down to two suspects, because everything else I can think of either happens progressively or manifests with variability.

To test the ignition:
Is there any harm in pushing it to WOT in neutral? This is my first boat so I've been scared to go past 1/3 throttle on muffs simply because it seems scary. What about in the water? I'm asking because I think that would help me rule out ignition/spark issues that manifest at a particular RPM. For example, a faulty ignition module or short to ground (at the tach?) should not be load dependent and should therefore occur in neutral, correct? All the other possible problems related to ignition/timing that I can think of would happen either constantly or progressively. The issue I'm experiencing is like a light switch: smooth and consistent power band from idle to 3/4 throttle then immediately hits a wall. No transition, no stumbling, just an infinite boggy groan.

To test the secondaries:
To test if the issue is somehow related to the opening of the secondaries I came up with the idea to lockout (or tighten down the spring) on the air valve to the secondaries. As I understand it, the opening of the secondary throttle plates merely allow the airflow demanded by the engine to act on the air valves, and it is the position of the air valves--not the throttle plates--that dictate how much fuel/air is delivered. If I am understanding this correctly, wouldn't preventing the secondary air valves from opening essentially make it function like a 2 barrel carb? If this is true, and the issue was indeed related to the secondaries, in theory I should then be able to achieve WOT albeit with less available HP and lower top speed, yes?

Thanks for helping me out or talking me through this. All is appreciated.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,638
What yr is the Motor?
Is the Tachometer accurate?
What is the WOT rpm range for the Engine?
What kind of 4bbl, Q-jet, Carter/Weber/Edelbrock?
Is there any interference/contact between the Throttle Cable and Linkage with any wire going to or from the Ignition System?
 

Bluedaffy

Cadet
Joined
May 27, 2022
Messages
9
Hi Jimmbo,

Year & motor: 1989 MCM 3.7LX

Tachometer: Not sure if it's accurate. It does increase with throttle but not very smoothly. It sticks and jumps a bit. I have what I feel like is a decent DMM and tried to verify with the RPM setting hooked to the coil - but it was waaaay off. Even less believable than the dash gauge, lol. Finally, I have one of those handheld laser tachometer instruments where you put a piece of reflective tape on the balancer and shine the laser at it while running. Using that I could at least verify that idle was good around 700 when I dialed in the carb after rebuild. I haven't used that to verify higher RPMs against the dash gauge though, for the same reason I haven't throttled up much on muffs. Why do you ask?

WOT range: 4400-4800 (as listed on the plastic cover on top of the flame arrestor)

Carburetor: Rochester Quadrajet. Thanks. Kind of an important detail I forgot to mention...

Throttle cable/linkage interference with ignition wire: No, not that I know of. However, I don't know what is going on being the starboard panel where all the wires are run along with the throttle cable. What potential issues are you thinking of? I could try to jostle/resituate them, but they probably get some of that during the trips to and from the lake.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,638
If the tach is out to lunch at Higher Rpm, perhaps the engine is revving much higher and you are experiencing things like Valve Float, or maybe a Rev Limiter, but I don't think engines had them back in 89. I asked, because you say it has great Bottom End Torque. In my eyes, small engine don't have a lot of that, but a low Pitch Prop will make it feel that way, but also allows the engine to over rev. What Pitch is you prop, and what is the Gear Ratio of the outdrive?

If a small engine has a 4bbl carb, the Qjet is pretty much the best carb for it. The primaries on the carb, while small aren't much smaller than what the Engine needs close to 5000 rpm, So the Secondaries, in this case the Air Valve won't have to open much.

If the linkage was rubbing on any wires in the Ignition system, there may be some places where the Insulation is damaged and the wire(s) could be grounding out. When I stated 'wires', I meant Low and High Voltage wires.
 
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