Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

SteveO

Cadet
Joined
Nov 27, 2006
Messages
11
I have a '81 Seastar 15 trihull I'm trying to refurbish. It had a few rough spots in the gelcoat but nothing major. I filled the chips with marinetex and then sanded the entire boat with 120 grit sandpaper. Went to West Marine and bought some Interlux Pre-Kote, a quart of white Brightside and 333 brushing reducer. After wiping the boat down I opened the primer and mixed it up good. Rolled it on but it just didn't look exactly right. I primed the entire top side and it took almost the whole quart. The surface was bumpy and rough. I knew it was a filler primer so I figured that's just the way it layed out.

Two days later I came back to sand the primer....it was still rubbery and didn't stick to the fiberglass. After a couple of hours of messing with it I realized it had to all come back off. I spend a couple of days scrapping with a razor blade, sanding and stripping the primer back off the boat. Once I had it all prepped again I decided to use some automotive epoxy filler primer (2K) to prime the boat. It layed down well (like it's suppose to). I scuff sanded the boat down and wiped it down (again) with the Interlux 333. I opened up the white Brightside, mixed it up well, then the begin rolling and tipping the paint on. It just wouldn't lay down smoothly or provide any coverage. It seemed the pigment and the carriers had seperated. I painted inside the front walk through bow area and the bilge area in the back and decided to call it quits. I called Interlux the next day and found out both the primer and paint were manufactured in 2002! It doesn't say the date on the bottom of the can but when I read the letters on the bottom of the can the tech rep told me when it was manufactuered. Both were way past their expiration date. West Marine was good enough to replace both the paint and the primer but couldn't do anything to repay me for my time and all the sandpaper I had to use to remove the bad paint.

Sanded the boat down again and then using the new can of Brightside, I rolled and tipped on the first coat of paint last Friday. This time it layed down a little better but was really transparent. Yesterday we sanded the bow area and bilge and today I rolled on the second coat. It looks a little better but will definitely need at least one more coat of paint. It still has some spots you can see through.

My question is does this all sound normal? I'm really frustrated with this project at this point and have on a couple of occasions almost decided to walk away from it. (My G/F has been very supportive and helpful in prepping the boat but with all these probelms even she has started getting a little burned out).

We've only been painting from the rubrail up and the entire inside of the boat so far. The sides and bottom will still need paint as well. It'll only be used in freshwater and on a trailer most the time. After all the problems I've had with the Interlux products (one of the best marine paints?) I'm thinking about just using Rustoleum. I doubt I could have any worse results!

Your thoughts?
 

zach103

Commander
Joined
Mar 11, 2008
Messages
2,233
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

that sucks.. at least both companies were nice enough to help you out as much as they can.. this is what ive looked at

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yp7exyZyikQ&feature=related

theres 4 videos.. intro, prep, priming, finishing, it looked really good after they did that.. thats alota work so maybe someone else has a better idea..

sounds like my girlfriend too.. she gave up after 2 hours. project took 5 months. still not done
 

jserb

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
406
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

Well both of you....my first boat restoration was with my "girlfriend" now after enjoying that boat for 4 years Iv up graded to redoing a 30ft scarab and shes now my Fianc? , I figure the wedding is in June so if i get it done by April she will let me include it in the wedding somehow :)

Anyways the point is i painted my entire first project with interlux. Great stuff for the price. But I will warn you it does scratch easily. I painted the entire hull in Dark navy blue and it looked perfect. (im a little crazy when it comes to that stuff so it needed to be perfect) but my process was i rough sanded the hull then came back with acetone and CLEANED the hull, sometimes when you sand a hull the dirt dust and wax get imbedded into the hull thus when you go to apply your paint it reacts with the interlux and kicks off weird. To resolve your "clumping, gelling, rubbery issue, try using paint thinner and thin it wayyyy out. I wont hurt the paint. I did this on mine and yes the Girlfriend rolled it on and I tipped it out. Since when you thin it it flows better it also will take more coats( cuzz its thinned out), I did 8 coats (that was 1 1/2 quarts) but then again i also took a white boat and turned it BLUE sooo if you have anymore questions PM me and I can help you. Take care, take your time you got allll winter !

P.S. Tell your GF my GF was supportive back in the day too! and look what it got her! - And engagement ring!
Below is a photo of how she turned out!
 

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Tail_Gunner

Admiral
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
6,237
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

Yes it sounds very normal, to the first application the paint should not have been sold...i would take the can back to the vendor and get a refund. You may have to explain Interlux's postion to them as to the age of the paint but be firm they were in error.

I will be the first one to tell you after hours of prep one wants to see instant results...;) Dont let the first layer of paint effect your judgement as to the final outcome at all. Instead try to think of it as new learning process as to how to apply the paint, pay close attention as to how thin it is and how it spreads out.....make sure that it lays down evenly do not and i repeat do not worry about how well it covers just a nice uniform coat. The outer skin will dry usally with in 24 hours after that time frame take a dry paper 320 grit and very lightly sand the sheen off the paint do not try to sand imperfections out at this time. It's then time to BUILD another layer of paint, if you payed attention as to how it flows or your mistakes the first time the second will be a bit eaiser and you repeat this process over at least three time maybe four or even five.

Using Interlux your building to a final finish and what a amature painter can accomplish with there paint is amazing. After you get to a good solid color a you now getting to the point of you fianl finsih, It was at this point i would take out all of the imperfection's, and with extreme care..by now you know just how thin the paint is so dont over do it. You should also have a very good ideal about how it spreads and what to avoid...you are now laying down your final or appearance finsih...:D this is where it may take another coat or 2 or 3...:eek: to get to a finsih that is satisfactory to your need's take your time you might be amazed.

On the base coats use very little 333 it only dilutes the pigment
Scuff the paint after 24 hours...when the outer surface is dry
Always rember your building to a final finish
When doing your final finish coats now use the 333 up to 30% that is what will give you a glass like mirror finish..:)...Opps you can get it so thin it runs like water, be careful here.

A little side note here...While Brightsides' is a very good paint and easly maintained, Perfection is in a leauge of its own, both in terms of finish and durability..it is with out a doubt the hardest (Abrasion resistant) paint i have ever used..The stuff is incredible.
 

erikgreen

Captain
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Messages
3,105
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

The Interlux is good stuff.... it's overpriced still, because it has a good reputation, but it's top quality.

You got old paint though.... shame on the place that sold it to you. Most of the time West is good enough to rotate out their stock.. they know it doesn't have a shelf life. I'd consider shopping somewhere else than that particular store.

You could try another brand, like Petit easypoxy, which is a one part epoxy paint that looks great. Easier to use than Interlux.

But, I think the key to the interlux is taking it slow. You can expect to need 4-5 thin coats of the stuff, rolled and tipped, for the best results.

Remember that although Rust-oleum will go on pretty easily by comparison, it won't look as good or last as long.

Erik
 

Off-Peak

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
102
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

I used I-lux as a 1st timer and it was a real charm... Our stories start the same.... i was pleased using the product and can tell you the Old Rust 'Em paint will not dry in half the time or as hard as I-lux products....
Take a look-> http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=268215
-OP-
 

salty87

Commander
Joined
Aug 12, 2003
Messages
2,327
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

please excuse the side-jack

tail gunner, if you're monitoring this thread...how well does the perfection brush on? i need to paint a wakeboard tower, can't really roll and tip it. i don't have access to a sprayer. i was hoping i could brush it and it would smooth out real well.

thanks
 

zach103

Commander
Joined
Mar 11, 2008
Messages
2,233
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

salty take a look at the youtube video i posted above. they used a roller. than went over it with a brush. i think thats what your looking for
 

salty87

Commander
Joined
Aug 12, 2003
Messages
2,327
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

thanks, zach. answers my question

think they guy in the video has ever used that stuff before? lol
 

zach103

Commander
Joined
Mar 11, 2008
Messages
2,233
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

there should be links to the rest . i hope. if not i saved them all...

i dont think so lol ;)
 

SteveO

Cadet
Joined
Nov 27, 2006
Messages
11
Great information

Great information

I want to thank each of you for sharing your opinions/ experiences. My background is in painting military ACFT, support equipment and cars. The paint used was totally different! After proper prep you would lay down a tack coat and they follow with two topcoats and you were done! I definitely miss that.

I'm taking today off from sanding/painting and going fishing with my g/f. We both could use the break. Tomorrow I'll be back in the garage sanding away.

I bought two quarts of Rustoleum Topside to paint the bottom of the boat. At $12 a can it's inexpensive and it seems others have had good results with it. The baot will never be in the water for more than a few hours at a time and will spend the majority of the time on a trailer in the garage. I'll be painting it white and it'll be at least a month until it's back on the water so it should have plenty of time to cure. I've already filled the gouges with marine tex and sanded the bottom with 220 grit sandpaper. Any advice?
 

Tail_Gunner

Admiral
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
6,237
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

please excuse the side-jack

tail gunner, if you're monitoring this thread...how well does the perfection brush on? i need to paint a wakeboard tower, can't really roll and tip it. i don't have access to a sprayer. i was hoping i could brush it and it would smooth out real well.

thanks
I do not know if perfection will adhere to metal, however if you go to home depot they have 5" closed cell foam rollers. You can apply one thin layer with the roller...it will bubble up and begin to level in about 2 mins take another foam roller and flatten it, It will leave a very fine nap which will level like glass in about 10 minutes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0nH-GWNYBM
 

wca_tim

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 28, 2007
Messages
1,708
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

on the wake tower. you can use por15, it cures slower than most two-part polyurethane auto paints so brush marks flow out. It's also made to stick to metal like nobody's business, and is as hard as imron or awlgrip. expensive, but so far one of the most amazing paints I';ve used. Oh, and if you don't want to color it, use their glisten clear. it works on mag wheels (yes, even if polished bright), aluminum intakes, etc... fuel, transmission fluid, powersteering fluid, hot oil, etc... doesn't touch it. Once it's good and set up you can throw rocks ayt it and it won't chip or scratch. My exhaust manifolds and risers were done with clear it and they look like they did when I first did it.

If you're gonna spray the stuff, it's the same iso as imron and awlgrip too... don't breath the aerosol, but not problem at all to brush or roll out. it foes on well and the brush and roler marks will flow out. if you get too thick and it runs, just let it harden for a day or so then wetsand them out and buff it...

Some napa paint stores carry it and you can order small cans online. use their metal prep etching cleaniner first, primer not needed, hardnose if you want great finish shiny 2-part polyureaurethane finish, Glisten clear if you want clearcoat / bare metal look. Truly the most amazing paint I've ever used...



I do not know if perfection will adhere to metal, however if you go to home depot they have 5" closed cell foam rollers. You can apply one thin layer with the roller...it will bubble up and begin to level in about 2 mins take another foam roller and flatten it, It will leave a very fine nap which will level like glass in about 10 minutes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0nH-GWNYBM
 

Str8OutTha9c

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
41
Re: Interlux paint experience..Argggg! (Long sorry)

The Interlux is good stuff.... it's overpriced still, because it has a good reputation, but it's top quality.

You got old paint though.... shame on the place that sold it to you. Most of the time West is good enough to rotate out their stock.. they know it doesn't have a shelf life. I'd consider shopping somewhere else than that particular store.

You could try another brand, like Petit easypoxy, which is a one part epoxy paint that looks great. Easier to use than Interlux.

But, I think the key to the interlux is taking it slow. You can expect to need 4-5 thin coats of the stuff, rolled and tipped, for the best results.

Remember that although Rust-oleum will go on pretty easily by comparison, it won't look as good or last as long.

Erik


I used Petit EasyPoxy on my skiff.
It took three coats on the hull.
I'm getting ready to do the inside soon.

Before paint:
IMG00324.jpg

First coat of EasyPoxy:
IMG00326.jpg

Second coat of EasyPoxy:
IMG00329.jpg

Third coat of Easypoxy:
IMG00366.jpg

A quick wet sand with 1200 grit and buffed out with 3M Perfect-it 3 compound and 3M foam pad glaze:
DSCF0043.jpg

DSCF0044.jpg



I paint cars for a living, so I've been spraying the paint.
Pretty good results.
I sprayed a 24' walkaround for a customer with it and it came out great.
I didn't even buff that one.
I just wanted that real deep shine on my personal boat so I buffed it.
 
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