Introduction, 1987 Capri bayliner size, ford 2.3L with ??'s

honda400ex2003

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Aug 3, 2010
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Hey everyone!

just wanted to say hi after not being on here for quite a few years. :) my last few posts years ago were for my parents boats, now i am finally old enough to have my own! grew up on a lake, bought a house about a year ago on a lake myself and kept my fishing boat i had growing up and just picked up a 1987 Bayliner Capri with a ford 2.3L I/O in it.

The big question is, the documentation says it is a 15', lady who sold it to me thought that it was a 16', i can only find a 17.5' on any value reports on NADA and such. Ill be measuring it this weekend to just satify my curiousity but is there a definite way to tell by the HIN with a simple number in a certain spot to check. I tried to use a decoder from my paperwork but it didnt give me the right information for what the hull number i had was. it seems to me that the only stern drive would be a 17.5' capri of the correct year.

The 2.3L ford pops quite a bit when i get it running wide open with the throttle all the way depressed- is this a normal operation? i was thinking that maybe it enabled the choke only at full throttle, thus why it doesnt work. It has an electric choke on it, its not actuating at all, havent checked power on it but not really sure when/how it is supposed to activate. any help on that?

it also dies when you shift it from low idle at 600ish rpm. sounds like a momentary kill switch failure but it does stay running in reverse and will stay running if i raise the idle with the pull out throttle before shifting. that is tough on it though, so i dont want to continue to do that. im going to try to tilt it up before starting it up to see if that helps, maybe less load on the outdrive will help enough to keep it running. where is the switch?

It needs a little work but overall it runs ok, the seats are in tact, and the trailer is in great shape as it is a newer shoreland'r. I will be getting some seat vinyl to redo the seats, need to fix the vents on the sides back as they are cracked, could use some carper as well as a good washing too. I also want to put a tower on it next spring too so i can do some wakeboarding behind it.

Recap- length of 15' legit?
popping on wide open normal?
when is the choke activated and how?
dies when you shift it, check out the mom kill or something else?
where is the momentary kill switch located?

Thanks for all of your help,
Steve
 

honda400ex2003

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im thinking it has to be a 1750 capri, all of the pictures i have found today while searching look just like mine with the label of 1750.

steve
 

honda400ex2003

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Nice find there, thanks

This one measured out to be a 17.5' by the looks of it. I'm happy about that anyway.

Finally getting somewhere on searching for the 2.3, it looks like it's an 85hp version, that's a bummer.

The choke looks like it is actuated when the key is on, just not sure what else triggers it to flip.

I'm hoping to get it out at least Sunday for sure. maybe even Saturday night if I have time when I'm done washing the cars. I will have to do a bit of diagnostic work on it and see how it starts from cold after sitting all week.

Steve
 

Speak

Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 29, 2012
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467
Choke closes with one pump of the throttle when shift control is in neutral. Your engine is not 85 hp if it's a Ford - more like 120. Propped right and running right, that boat should go between 35-40 mph - before u push it to hard - check the transom and other structures for soft or rottin wood - see my signature for examples - enjoy those boats look good when cleaned up and are fun to rip around in when structurally sound
 

honda400ex2003

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Aug 3, 2010
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Thanks for the information! I will give that a try, I bet its working and the guy just didnt know how to use the choke when he showed me.

I ran 35-36 with it last weekend, so thats not too shabby. They definitely don't trim out like an outboard lol!

Thanks guys,
Steve
 

honda400ex2003

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Seemed to start up nicely with a pump a couple of times while firing, only cranked for 20sexords or so and it was fired off and going.

Trimmed up the cobra and that seemed to help out the shifting immensely as well.

Thanks guys!
Steve
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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The piping while underway is either too far advanced ignition, or a lean sneeze. Both which are bad for your motor
 

honda400ex2003

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Good to know, I'll have to check both out. I'll check the plugs to see how they look after a while tank of gas through it under my ownership.

It seems that the alternator took a dump on me today, so that will have be replaced. I watched it quit charging as I was going along. That's kind of a bummer. I was at 11.5v when we finally got back to the dock. It ran 14+ this morning and fell off on my return trip from up the lakeshore. Is there a way to get better longevity out of them or it something that just needs to be replaced often?

It pops once I get the throttle all the way down, which isnt necessary since it doesn't go any faster or rev any higher after a certain point on the stick (3/4 throttle or so) anyway. It always smells like it's getting enough gas but maybe not at the top of the rpm range. Although a plug chop won't do much good now, I can still inspect the plugs anyway.

It still has a heck of a time with staying running when doing things like setting up for skiers. It seems to either load up or its timing too far advanced (as you suggested, I didn't think of that option). Feels like it loads up though but could have been from the weakening battery as well tonight from starting it after it would die as I was trying to get started with the skier.

Thanks for the info!
Steve
 

honda400ex2003

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What's a good timing to have it at as well? 0 degree? It looks like an easy enough process to check it, I can do it when I pull the alternator tomorrow night.

Thanks,
Steve
 

honda400ex2003

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this information sounds different than what i was reading on how to do it last night. i will have to look again, the one that i read last night stated that you take the valve cover off, put it to TDC at cylinder #1 and check the angle of the lobes there. Then adjust accordingly by loosening the bolts and moving, then retorque to 114 in-lb when finished.

does this sound right? if i have to check "dwell" and points, i just ran out of experience with doing it LOL

steve
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,581
That does not sound right. Yes, you need to set the dwell before you adjust the timing. You should set with a dwell meter.

Out of curiosity, what bolts were you loosening and tightening? The distributor hold down clamp?
 
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honda400ex2003

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thanks for the info, i will have to check into it a bit more than i had thought after i read that simple procedure last night. at least there are some videos around on how to check it on the car engines to at least reference. it might be kinda the same, its the same block at least LOL

I havent actually done any adjustments on it yet. I just read that procedure last night, then was hoping it was that simple. I am used to working on atv and small engines, not usually more than general maintenance on the car engines. plus they are all electronic so theres no points or the like.

Anyone know if there is a specific marine alternator for these? I suspect that there is for anti-spark reasons, just want to make sure before i go to car-quest and they try to sell me one for a regular 2.3L.


:(
steve
 
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bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,581
You need a marine alternator. I also suggest you find an OEM manual. You can find them on eBay.

You own a timing light?
 
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honda400ex2003

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Aug 3, 2010
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Ive been looking for those as well, thought i found a free download but it required a password i guess.

thanks for the info on the alternator and all of the help guys! I appreciate it!

steve
 

honda400ex2003

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Aug 3, 2010
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LOL yip, time to get one and get crazy with it i guess.

maybe it would be worth finding a local marine guy to work on going through it all and checking it if i am going to spend 100-150 on it, thats a couple of hours of wrench time for a service department.

im pretty handy, a mechanical engineer, but dont always have time to wrench on it for a week at a time after work. :(
steve
 
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