Issues with 1964 18 HP Fastwin lower unit

[j5wentworth]

So, I inherited a 1964 Evinrude 18 HP Fastwin that needed some work. I found out it was leaking gear oil so I decided to break it all down and i replaced all seals, gear case head assembly, shift seal bushing / o ring, impeller , etc. I have two main concerns now that it's been partially re-assembled. Everything went back together smoothly without any forcing.

Problem 1:
With the lower unit re-assembled but unattached from the upper , it takes a pretty good amount of force to turn the prop / drive shaft while in gear - either forward or reverse. It seems like too much resistance to me, but I didn't check it before to compare. Neutral is perfectly fine with no resistance. I noticed no wear on any of the gears and dog clutch had minimal wear. The only thing I could think of is that the new gear case head assembly was slightly longer than the original, but it was the same part # when I ordered it and it fit the same. Thoughts on anything I did wrong or need to look for?

Problem 2:
When I dropped the lower unit, I left the shift linkage in neutral and loosened the lower of the two shift linkage screws to remove. When I reassembled and tried to fit the lower to the upper, I found the shift linkage was too short now. I tried installing with it in forward and reverse and it's still too short.

So, what in the world am I doing wrong? I had none of these issues before , so I'm sure I messed something up, but not sure what.

Thanks for the help!

 

[racerone]

At the brass connector the notches in the shift rods MUST line up with the holes before the bolts are put in.----Did you make sure that the dowel pin in the gear housing lined up properly with the groove in the forward bearing ??

 

[j5wentworth]

At the brass connector the notches in the shift rods MUST line up with the holes before the bolts are put in.----Did you make sure that the dowel pin in the gear housing lined up properly with the groove in the forward bearing ??

Hmm, I tightened the lower unit to the upper housing before connecting the shift rod. That could be my issue. Regarding your second question, the only dowel pins on my lower unit are to align the gearcase head assembly and then one on the propeller shaft. The gearcase head assembly dowel is aligned properly. If I'm not understanding you right, could you tell me what part # on this part sheet / schematic you are speaking of?

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/...&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Gearcase+Group

 

[oldboat1]

http://www.iboats.com/Gearcase-Group...iew_id.1547792

Not your gearcase pictured, but the shift rod (24) goes into the brass connector (8). The screw or hex bolt (6) has to fit in the machined slot in the shift rod. It doesn't matter what gear the motor is in -- for assembly, can move the upper rod down to meet the lower by using the shift lever at the motor. If you have to, reach in and grip the lower rod with a needle nosed pliers and pull up while pushing the top rod down with the shift lever.

The hex bolt has to be fully removed before reassembly -- I sometimes use a bladed screwdriver to open up the connector slightly, then insert the shift rod. (Might magnetize the socket before trying to insert the bolt.)

[ed. dowel in question would presumably be #49.]

 

[j5wentworth]

http://www.iboats.com/Gearcase-Group...iew_id.1547792

Not your gearcase pictured, but the shift rod (24) goes into the brass connector (8). The screw or hex bolt (6) has to fit in the machined slot in the shift rod. It doesn't matter what gear the motor is in -- for assembly, can move the upper rod down to meet the lower by using the shift lever at the motor. If you have to, reach in and grip the lower rod with a needle nosed pliers and pull up while pushing the top rod down with the shift lever.

The hex bolt has to be fully removed before reassembly -- I sometimes use a bladed screwdriver to open up the connector slightly, then insert the shift rod. (Might magnetize the socket before trying to insert the bolt.)

[ed. dowel in question would presumably be #49.]

Yeah, I'm aware of 'how' the shift rod is connected per se, I just can't figure out what exactly I'm messing up. It's like my shift rod shrunk a 1/4''. I tried assembling with the gear and shift lever in neutral , forward, and reverse and it's not meshing. When shifting from forward to neutral on the gear selector, the gear hits neutral just before hitting neutral on the lever. Then once I'm in neutral on the lever, the gear is actually in reverse. I'm baffled. I've taken in it apart again, dry fit it a thousand times trying a thousand different things. Nothing appears bent or damaged. And again, it worked fine before I took it apart so I know it's on me..

 

[j5wentworth]

Old Boat - You nailed it. I wasn't taking the shift rod screw out all the way. Took it all the way out and bent the brass connector out a bit with a screwdriver and VOILA! You rock! Thanks for the help. Now I can go to bed feeling like I just conquered the world...

 

[racerone]

??--There is a wee dowel pin in the upper half of the housing.---It locates the bearing on the forward gear for proper oil flow.

 

[Chinewalker]

Yep, make sure that front pin is aligned. If not, it can bind the bronze bearing. They also have a habit of getting pushed into the housing, too.

 

[oldboat1]

Glad to hear about progress, anyway (shift rod). Guess you might be opening the gearcase again to check assembly(?)