Johnson 1960 40 HP - Armiture plate rotation

[LymanJohnson]

I am a newbie, restoring a 1960 Johnson 40 hp outboard. Got no spark initially so I removed a very difficult flywheel and replaced the points, condensers, and coils. (one coil was burnt and cracked). I replaced the flywheel and the pull starter assembly to test for spark. I then pulled the rope starter and on the initial pull got a good spark from one of the plugs. Then when I went to pull again to test the second plug, the flywheel and armature plate rotated together and would just stop. It didn't appear to be a compression issue, the armature plate rotated with the flywheel, and the anchor and pin assembly that holds the spark plug wires rotated around and got caught against a bracket on the engine block and comes to a hard stop.

#1: How much should the armature plate be able to rotate? As I can tell, the 4 screws (2 through the coils) only go down into ring with 4 threaded holes. (this ring rotates freely)

#2: It appears to be that the flywheel does not have a lot of free spin around the armature plate and are rotating together. As I mentioned, I was able to get it to pull and spin once, but then it stopped. How freely should the flywheel rotate around the armature plate? Could the coils be stuck against the inside wall of the flywheel. If so, and they be adjusted? The coils didn't appear to be adjustable, but I may be wrong.

I appreciate anyone's help.

 

[geoffwga1]

The coils should be fitted so they are flush with the bosses they are mounted on. If they project over that they will foul the flywheel,which appears to be your problem.The answer is an educated fingertip which comes with practice

 

[racerone]

Yes you need to set the coils in the correct position.-----Some of these jobs are so easy that they can be done wrong.----Ask questions before making mistakes here.

 

[LymanJohnson]

Thanks for that info, I'll adjust those and retry it.
On my other question, I want to verify that the armature plate at a whole will have some rotation 'play' and not be fixed to the engine block. Is that correct?

 

[F_R]

That is true, it rotates within limits to change the timing according to throttle position. When you replace that flywheel, be sure the shaft and flywheel hub tapers are shiny clean and dry and use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 100-105 foot pounds. Failure to do that will cause serious damage.

 

[LymanJohnson]

Problem solved. Removed flywheel and adjusted coils. Initially it didn't appear to have room for adjusting, but it does, and enough. Remounted the flywheel and it spins freely around the armature plate. Tested for spark on both plugs and got good spark. Now on to the fuel, carb and lower unit.
Thanks for the help.

 

[gm280]

Problem solved. Removed flywheel and adjusted coils. Initially it didn't appear to have room for adjusting, but it does, and enough. Remounted the flywheel and it spins freely around the armature plate. Tested for spark on both plugs and got good spark. Now on to the fuel, carb and lower unit.
Thanks for the help.

Okay, this problem solved. I would whole heartedly suggest YOU purchase a factory shop manual for your specific engine if you can find one. It covers everything concerning your engine and will be a life saver to fix and adjust you engine to top performance. Don't buy an aftermarket version. They try to cover so many models and HP sizes that they give very little quality type info. But factory! :thumb: