johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

[robot]

i am about to put an untested 1957 35 HP johnson javelin in the water on a newly restored boat tomorrow (7/15/06)

the motor has not been run in 2 years (it was overhauled at that time). I dont know what 'overhauled' means, but I assume it means new impeller, plugs and a verification that it'll start. the previous owner said that the motor ran like a top (which is comforting)

the electric start hasnt been run in 20 yrs. I am going to give that a go. If it's not functional, I'll be pulling the recoil.

I have some rabbit ears to test it in the driveway before I put it in the water. should I do that before it goes down the ramp (i have a paddle).?

I'm a wood guy more than a motor guy, so any advice would be welcomed.

the previous owner also mentioned that I should check the level of the lower unit and add some more oil if necessary. can I top off the lower unit rather than flushing the entire lower unit? how do I validate the level is ok? just check from the top screw that there is enough oil?

btw.
photo today:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/robotgoesnuts/boat/P1010002.jpg

 

[robot]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

btw. what should hi-speed/low speed be set at (1-6) when starting? I assume this is low/high idle.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

Change the lower, and I would get new seal for the screws. Safe better than sorry. Both screws out, drain, then get the tube of gearlube and squeeze it in from the bottom. When it comes out the top hole, keep the tube in, and put the top screw back in, then pull the tube, and put the lower in. Little messy, and losing a bit won't hurt. Then fire it on the muffs BEFORE ya launch! Good Luck!
Idle scerw somewhere in the middle, and when it warms up, at idle, turn it back and forth for the best idle

 

[robot]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

1. does the lower only need 1 tube of gearlube to fill completely?
2. there seams to be no leakage from the lower unit screws(ever). I will look for seals.
3. the water intake on this engine (where the muffs go) is really small (looks like this ::::::. i just turn on the hose and then fire the motor?

 

[robot]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

thanks. i'll change out the lower unit lube, and look for seals.

help on the muffs would be appreciated.

the water intake is really small, do I just turn on the water to the muffs and try to turn it over?

how can i tell that I have reasonable waterflow (water spitting out of the exhaust/etc)?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

you have a real gem , a Thompson at that. you motor is all most bullet proof, with a little tlc. i have some concerns with it sitting for 2 years. 1 st is the impeller, they dry out when not use, they are just rubber and will come apart. wal mart has a rectangular muff made by SeaSence that works better than the round one on that engine, i have a '55 15hp . i would tilt the motor all the way up and remove the spark plugs, put some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders, and let sit for a couple of hours. then lower engine, be ready to catch oil. now try turn ing the engine over with out plugs(put a towel over the back, so it doesn't blow residual oil all over you nice new shop. click my name , get email address , request awakening sleeping out board, and carb adjustments. will send you the links,, you can go over these while the oil soaks into the rings. good luck

 

[robot]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

she fires when I put gas/oil mix in plug holes, but wont stay running(starved for gas?). there's gas in the glass bowl, so the fuel delivery is working at least to there. I put new plugs in


what's my next couple steps?
btw. i have about 4 months into the restoration of the boat. none into the motor (yet).

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

ok, just checked laingsoutboards.com has everything you will need for this engine..replace all rubber hoses, carb rebuilded kits, new floats, impeller and or water pump kit . hold off on points, coils, and condenser, since you have spark. you may want to rebuild the pressure tank, and replace hoses also, they have that stuff also, just did my tank. ok i sent you a the two links. you are well on your way.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

Muffs don't fit so don't use them. Run in a trash barrel.

If pumping the primer on the tank doesn't help, or it stops after just a couple seconds running, you've got a clogged up carburetor. Be sure to get a dealer carb kit. It's about $5 more than the aftermarket one but ought to come with a new plastic float to replace the old cork one. Lots of old cork float kits still out there though.

Be sure to remove the soft metal plug on the top of the carb and clean the idle orifaces directly behind it. That's usually where the trouble lays.

This ought to be set up with the pressure tank system. You don't have it rigged to a single line tank I take it?

Have a look in the FAQ forum for the new Joe Reeves carburetor settings. The numbered settings are purely arbitrary so don't go by them.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

paul i already sent him awakening, and joes settings.

 

[robot]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

I took it to a small engine repair guy(on a sunday no less). He rebuilt the carb (very varnished). got it to run great in a barrel(no misfiring/etc). said I should probably replace all of the lines. I got it in at the launch and steered it over to my boat lift (at low RPM) it sputtered and missed at high RPM. I put it on my lift (and my air/gas lines were all cracked and sucking/losing air). so I have started to replace all of the rotted lines, it still will not run for more than 5 -6 seconds.It will always fire with the choke pulled, but immediately stops (before I can push in the choke). on the next start (after the choke, it will fire and run for a few seconds and then just peters out.btw. this is a 2 line air/gas system. when the gas lines were replaced I am able to keep a consistent level in the glass bowl. I have not replaced all of the gas lines but, have replaced the tank-motor lines.

I probably should replace the plugs again, as I've probably fouled them pretty bad with all of the misfiring.


1. what plugs should this motor have? i pulled champion rj6c out, but the champion book said rj8c. so that's what I put in. Is that right?

2. should I put a small inline filter in before/after the glass bowl?

3. how much lube should the lower unit take? i flushed and put in 1 tube, but it didnt leak out the top fill plug?

4. any idea how/where to rejuvenate or replace old rubber button covers? my start button is severely cracked and dry.
image at:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/robotgoesnuts/boat/badge.jpg
4.a. the choke/stop button doesnt seem to function. It's a momentary switch,so I doubt the button itself is failing. I will have to trace down the wiring to identify the source of the problem. Is there some sort of relay that the choke button activates? should I here a click at the motor when it's pressed?


btw. it's (IMHO) the nicest boat on the lake, now I just need to get it off the damn lift

I really appreciate all of the help I've ben getting. you guys are an invaluable resource

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

the choke button activates a soleniod the closes the choke, you should hear it click, on some motors the manual choke on the engine has 3 poistions, all the way out is manual choke, 1 click in and the button should activate choke, and the was in choke is disabled. replace the rest of the gas lines before trying to run again. you could be sucking crud out of them into the carb, also they are sucking air. the fuel system is a pressure system. the motor pumps air in to the gas tank, forcing gas to the engine, any leak and you're screwed. don't have manual for that particular engine so don't know correct plugs. the glass bowl is one of the best it separates water, and there is a filter in the top of the bowl, which probably needs changing. the engine is one of the bullet proof big twins. and treated right will run forever.

 

[robot]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

I looked at the bowl. I was trying to figure out how to remove it.
I pumped a ton of sour gas through it before it got bluish white (this is all before the carb rebuild). I will have to check out the choke positions. I think it has 3 positions, as the throw of the choke knob is really long (maybe 1.5 inches)

 

[ratracer]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency


From memory, motors around this size usually take around 11 oz of lube in the lower unit so its no surprise that a single 10 oz tube wouldn't be enough.

Get another tube, when you are ready just remove the lower plug, insert the tip of the tube, THEN remove the upper plug and add more lube. This way you don't dump out the new lube you've already added, and you ensure that you won't have any large air bubbles trapped within the lube.

 

[robot]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

I assume if I open the lower plug and water pours out, I have a seal problem?

that's what I got after I first opened the lower unit drain plug after a barrel test. I pumped a tube full, I guess if I open it, and there's water, I gotta figure that out.

btw. is there a more pungent oil that they can put into the lower unit? When I cut open the tube, a little spilled on my cell phone. I tried cleaning it, but it's still noxious.
btw. I added a load of pictures at:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v357/robotgoesnuts/boat/

I'm thinking i'll do a shareaproject.com thing, as there doesnt seem to be much in the way of wooden/lapstrake boats there.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

That's a beautiful boat robot.

I don't think they can make the scent of l/u oil any worse. They put all that's noxious into it.

Seal kit is pretty cheap and pretty easy. You have to come up with a tool to punch out the shift rod bushing (which can be a bear sometimes) but otherwise it's pretty straight-forward. You could try replacing the seals beneath the fill and vent plugs since they're often the source of trouble, but if you've got lots of water I doubt it's them alone.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

did the screw plugs on the lower unit have the seals on them? they get left off and will leak.

 

[robot]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

the screwplug seals kept the water in.

btw. every service guide says the drain is on the side of the LU.

the drain is on the bottom of the LU

1. I assume I can go to an older (open 50 yrs) Johnson dealer and get the seal kit.
2. I assume #2 I can ask them how to punch out the shift-rod bushing? Where can i find a tool to do this? a punch and a hammer? or does it need bearing puller type pressure?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

then i'd say you're on the right track.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: johnson 35 HP 1957 javelin emergency

1. OMC doesn't make / didn't make a kit that I know of. You just bought all the seals individually. There is an aftermaket kit though that's fine. All the seals, etc, are still available as that gearcase was used on commercial models up into the late 80s.

2. Some people use a piece of 5/16" threaded rod with the threads ground down a bit. It's just a precisely sized punch so if you have the equiptment you can make your own very easily. An alternative is to bring the upper part of the l/u with you to the dealer and get them to bash it out.

Other tricks:
Cut the spagetti 1/16" long so it overhangs 1/32 on each side. This is the factory way to seal the spagetti ends as opposed to the Seloc method of using RTV silicone. Use a proper flange sealant all over the mating surfaces as the cap screws pass inside of the spagetti seal.
Drill two small holes in the driveshaft seal and insert a couple small sheet metal screws. Use the heads of those screws to pry out the seal.
The prop shaft seal is removed by punching through the small holes in the seal carrier. Sometimes the punch just punches through the seal. If that happens, massacre the old seal from the inside using a dremel, etc, and then collapse the seal so it can be removed easily.