Johnson 40hp

67-69johnman

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Hi i have recently traded for a new project
a 61 johnson 40hp shortshaft tiller model
model number RDSL-22
I've been looking not very long for parts break downs for it
I'm quite familiar with the brp website which has full parts lists back to '68
went back to '68, selected 40hp, random model number,
and most things look identical on the 68 40hp
My question to you experts is: are there any major difference between the 61 and the 68?

while working on my 67 20's i've been able to order parts from the 68 section and have had no problems
Tell me the differences if you could i know some of you have this identical motor
 

67-69johnman

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Re: Johnson 40hp

Also, The tiller handle is a little shaky on thie thing any place you know of that has a replacement?
 

kfa4303

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Re: Johnson 40hp

Hey Johnman. Great old Big Twin you got there. I used to have a '66 33 hp that was great. Based on the model number you gave, you actually have a 1960 LONGSHAFT model as evidenced by the "L" in the model number. It may, however have been converted to a short shaft over the years. Any who, here's a parts catalog with exploded diagrams for your whole motor and a great link to help bring that big old girl back to life. As usual, you can get any routine parts you may need right here at iboats. Keep us posted. We love pics ;)


P.S.
Go ahead and get another/extra gas tank. One 6-gallon tank won't last very long with these big 'ol beats, but they're super reliable and you can pull a tree trunk out of the ground with all of the low end torque they make. Oh, and 24:1 mix with Champion J6C pugs and you'll be good to go.


P.S.S.
The tiller on my old 33 hp, was a little wobbly too. Good 'ol ebay should have tiller handles, but check aomci.org and ask around here first, you might be able to get one for less than online.



http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/378127/37812700001.htm

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/max/24/index.cfm
 

tx1961whaler

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Re: Johnson 40hp

The marineengine.com link above has the parts breakdown for your particular motor.
 

67-69johnman

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Re: Johnson 40hp

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KFA my onliest friend
This motor i traded my last winter's project the perfect runing 67 john 20hp for
The guy seemed quite frustrated with it as he was told it was a great runner, spent all winter long paiting and putting new decals on it (though some of which are not era correct i believe) Got it to the water and just wasnt pleased with it.
Told me it had a bad lower unit and we traded strait across.
last night, just by feeling the prop in gear i made an educated guess and said the lower unit is good.
So far i plan to put new points and condensers in it, new impeller, take the lower gearcase off and perform a closer inspection. Get new gears for the tiller arm and see what she does.

Last night i gave it my best 1am try to get the flywheel off to set the points. even though there is a window to view the points.

I've never worked on a motor this large before luckily my heavy duty homebuilt stand will hold it though the lawnmower wheels that it rolls on tend to get a little bent under the weigh of this beast.
 

67-69johnman

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Re: Johnson 40hp

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Above is a picture of the new clydesdale next to the old pony.
Its odd to me. over the years certain sizes of motors seem to have stayed he same size.
other like the 40 hp, on my google images research. they seem to have started big in the 50's to late 60's
went to a more manageable size from the 70's all the way up into the 4 stroke era where the power to weight ratio just heaves to the weight side of the equation
 

1946Zephyr

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Re: Johnson 40hp

Yes, actually there is a difference between the 1960 and 1968 models. The powerheads are different. The 1960 - 61 models still had the high compression heads like the 35's used. That is a nice looking motor. If that is infact a 1960 model, it has a cover from a later model. The older ones had a brass colored ring on top. I have the '59 RDSL-21B and they're virtually identical motors, except mine is a 35.
 

kfa4303

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Re: Johnson 40hp

Yeah, these big 'ol girls can be hard to get the flywheel off. I used a long nylon strap from an old ratchet strap set to act as sort of a giant strap wrench. I used the hook in the strap and connected it to the lifting eye on the motor then wrapped the strap around the perimeter of the flywheel such that when I went to loosen the flywheel nut it would tighten the strap. I believe I had to use a 1/2" socket on my 33 hp flywheel nut. I also had to use a 2'-3' metal pipe as sort of a breaker bar. I slipped the handle of my ratchet into the end of the pipe and used it for leverage. I thought for sure something was going to break, but it all held together. Once the flywheel nut is loosened leave it in place so the flywheel doesn't go shooting off when you remove it. Make sure you have nice GRADE 8 bolts too. It may take some time (days even), but just slowly tighten the threaded shaft on the puller until the flywheel breaks free. Mine literally sounded like a gunshot when I first took it off, but all was well. Follow the steps in this link and pic and holler if you get stuck.


flywheel puller.jpg
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/max/24/index.cfm
 

67-69johnman

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Re: Johnson 40hp

Got the flywheel off this morning with an average 17 dollar puller from old cummins tools.
Not much of a problem with someone to pull the wrench while I held the flywheel. Came right off
A shame though that I went to that trouble without having a new set of points and coils to go in. Oh well.
Set the old points which weren't really far off. I realize the flywheel has a window on this motor but I just had to see if that stator was the same as my 20's
Anyway I put the flywheel back on with the 45lbs recommended. Gave the pull start a pull and decide after a few choice words to use the starter instead to check the spark. We got 3/8 of an inch of spark on this one. Filled the bucket up and ready for a test run. Figured i would just turn the throttle manually but thats hard to do.
So the problem with the tiller was the PO said the gears were warn out and it wouldn't grab anymore. I took it off. I put it back on correctly (threading the bolt through tiller hand as tight as I can stand and double nutting the nut.) And wow it works great now.
Anywho started it up and ran it.
Idles pretty well. Though it sputters a bit like a truck backfiring
Pumps water well. Prop looks good were goin for a test tomorrow.
Seems to run ok but everything is different with a boat in front of that motor
 

67-69johnman

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Re: Johnson 40hp

Well finally got out on the lake today and while I am impressed with how well it pushes the boat at idle it just won't come out of that.
After running a few minutes it started to backfire and idle roughly.
I hate this. If only I had a test lake in the back yard....
In the garage we had spark, good spark too.
Maybe I'm heating up and dropping a coil out.
Would that explain why I won't rev up as well?
 

registeroot

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Re: Johnson 40hp

That motor looks like new! Can't believe it started right up. I have te same old motor I'm still working on getting going! Keep te pics and videos coming for all our benefit and keep us posted!
 

67-69johnman

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Re: Johnson 40hp

Well i wish it was as clean as it looks in photos. Up close the paint leaves a bit to be desired. But it is clean on the inside though. More pics to come though. What problems are you having with yours.
 

kfa4303

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Re: Johnson 40hp

I think you're probably right about dropping a coil. That thing should scream across the water and get you on plane in no time.
 

67-69johnman

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Re: Johnson 40hp

I really hope it's something that dumb. Any insight on the sputtering though. My 69 20hp does it too at times though not nearly as violently.
But good god that thing idles my boat at 13 miles an hour I can't imagine what full rm feels like.

By the way could you give me some insight on where the tension adjuster is for the steering?
 

kfa4303

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Re: Johnson 40hp

The sputter may just be a carb issue. Perhaps it just needs to be cleaned, or have the lo/hi speed needles adjusted a bit. This link may help with the carb. If your coils are good, one of the spark plug wires may have wiggled loose too. You might also want to trim about 1/2" off the wires at the coil end to expose some fresh copper. Is the steering a teleflex style cable, or is it a cable and pulley set up?


http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167352
 

67-69johnman

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Re: Johnson 40hp

i will try that with the plug wires as instructed.
and as far as the cable type, it is a fleshy type cable attached to the endof my left shoulder. its a tiller
i can't seem to find the tension screw for the steering.
i looked underneath the carry handle like it is on our 20's but is not there.
there is a bolt on the side of the pivot housing but it doesnt seem to do what i think it does
 

67-69johnman

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Re: Johnson 40hp

After looking at the parts breakdown it looks like its on the tiller side of the motor at the top of the pivot housing ill have to tighten upthat thing when I get homr
 

67-69johnman

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Re: Johnson 40hp

second reply.
on the steering tension screw i screwed it one full turn. click. felt like its stripped in there. and it doesnt look easy to get to either.
when i do get to it however from the parts break down it looks like its just a nut on the back side of that screw witch probably means there is nothing wrong with the band.
woo hoo


started the motor up(pull start only i might add quite a task) and proceded to start trying to tune the carburetor. now i have a question about this i have in front of me a parts break down of a carburetor for a 1960 johnson 40hp model number RDSL-22
no electric choke, no low speed adjustment KNOB. the screw is still there but no knob.
I does this mean i have a 61 powerhead with a 60 mounting bracket?

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