Johnson/Evinrude 115hp, Not Sure Where To Go From Here

atktom

Seaman
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
51
Here's the latest. Got the bypass covers installed today. The extra intake studs on the covers, I just JB Welded it closed. Using 1/16 ID fuel hose, that way don't have to worry about using tie wraps. Will change all main fuel hoses and install the carburetors over the next couple of days. Sure am keeping my fingers crossed this will cure my high idle problems and having to run the primer solenoid part way open. The pictures are one before, one after port side, and one after starboard side. Appreciate all the help.
 

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spybot

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
504
If i were you I would not cover the extra hole but instead look for a T piece for the 1/16id hose that way you are getting all the fuel into the by pass with no danger of drawing air ( This may happen if your JB weld is leaking in any way. My Bypass covers are fed by 2 hose which branch into 4 just as the enter the by pass covers. You can always keep an eye out for another two by pass covers with the 2 nipples on them. This should help your starting but it will only help starting and not the high idle. Well it will and it wont. It will in the fact that the primer is not feeding the fuel all the time, it wont as to the following,

You starting procedure should be raise fast idle lever 1/2 to 3/4 way up. Turn key whilst turning the key pus the key in a few times to activate the primer which will allow fuel to enter the by pass covers. This should let the motor fire right up. Then when she is warm lower the fast idle. If she starts to drop just bump in the key to get some added fuel.

Regarding the jets (orifices) I would stick with what the book calls for regarding the 81 carbs.

On a side note if you idle or troll for a long time you may and its only a MAY suffer from fuel puddling at the base of the reeds. I am sure a quick burst of throttle (Waiting for the engine to pick up regarding the puddles) will cure this.This is the reason the nipples were added to the intake manifold. It would allow fuel to drain via a one way valve direct to the bypass covers.

Hopefully all the makes sense.

Remember I am a Scott living in Scotland and only started working on these motors 3 years ago.

Prior to that i had never worked on an outboard in my life ever, mind 35 year old imports.
But to put your mind at ease i have learned enough from this and other forums to have kept my motor running without putting it into a shop once and i am in the process of a full rebuild of a V4 140 xflow from 1980.
 
Last edited:

atktom

Seaman
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
51
Update - Finally got it all together today and started it up. I mean it started instantly, running fine with the primer solenoid in the auto position and hoses going to the bypass covers. The carbs I ordered and rebuilt seem to be working okay, I see no leaks.

Only one last problem and if I do not get an answer here I will start a new thread. It is still idling high around 2200, playing with it I see the timer base does not return all the way to make the idle stop screw touch the block, when I manually move the timer base back that last 1/2 inch the idle drops to something more normal on the muffs, around 1300 rpm's. Is there anything I can spray in there to make the timer base return all the way. If I have to pull the fly wheel to do anything, I think I will have to farm that out as I am 70 and think that might be a little out of my reach. Appreciate all the comments and help I have received, Thanks a bunch..
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Yep, do the link and synch. Detailed in manual. Yes you don't quite have the layout the manual states but doing those steps with some common sense will get it done. Get it good with out the throttle cable attached and then adjust cable accordingly. On that old of a set up you may be due for a new cable if you can't adjust the play out of it.
 

atktom

Seaman
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
51
Final post on this subject:

Racerone, that did the trick, thanks for that last info as I would of never figured that out even after seeing the paragraph in the book saying that. Got it down to 1200 rpm's on the muff, and I love that it starts instantly, like just to touch the key after holding it in for a few seconds for the primer solenoid, which I rebuilt too. Appreciate all your help.

jakedaawg, I had plenty of room to adjust the throttle cable, you had me worried all night, lol. Thanks for all your help and comments.

Spybot, thanks for hanging with me thru the bypass cover fiasco, sure do appreciate your help.

Interalian, thanks to you too for posting your pictures and the help that you offered.

Could not of done this without everyone's help and comments. Thanks again

All I have left to do is take it to the lake next week and do final idle adjustment in the water. Then keep my fingers crossed and take it for a run.
 
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