Johnson starting issues

[EJ3]

I have a 1977 55hp Johnson OB, and am having troubles with starting it from the key. Nothing happens when I turn the key. I can connect the positive ends of the solenoid via a screwdriver and it starts right up. This is my first motor with a ket to start it rather than a pull rope. Does the solenoid react to the turning of the key by disbursing the voltage, thus turning the motor over? And if so, are my problems coming from a bad solenoid?

Thanks for the help!

 

[angus63]

Re: Johnson starting issues

Ignition switch, wiring, and solenoid can all be a culprit. Do you have a factory manual? You'll need a volt/continuity meter to find out. Turning the key supplies low amp supply to the solenoid relay, closes the contacts, and closes the circuit for the battery to the starter (in short terms).

 

[EJ3]

Re: Johnson starting issues

I am definetly going to get a repair manual, and soon. I have a volt meter that I can use. Where is the ignition switch located? Is it in the controls where the key and such is or in the motor?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Johnson starting issues

first culprit to check is the fuse near the solenoid, should be small red fuse holder, 20 amp fuse. this is the fuse to the controls. lower right in the picture.

 

[angus63]

Re: Johnson starting issues

Hey Tash
If the fuse was blown, could you still jump solenoid contacts to start the motor? Not sure myself.....

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Johnson starting issues

The back side of the key IS the ignition switch. Its inside the control box. Turning the key to START closes a set of contacts that feeds 12V to the solenoid on the engine. That 12V signal energizes the solenoid and essentially shorts the two large posts together to feed current directly from the battery to the starter. Attach the voltmeter POS lead to the small wire on the solenoid. Connect the NEG lead to a good ground (bare bolt head, etc). Turn the key to START. If you don't measure 12V on that terminal 12V is either not going up the control harness to the "B" (battery) terminal on the ignition switch in the control box, the ignition switch is bad, or the wire from the "S" terminal on the ignitiion switch to the solenoid is open. To test the solenoid, jump the large terminal with the battery POS cable on it, to the small terminal. If the starter doesn't spin, the solenoid is bad.

 

[EJ3]

Re: Johnson starting issues

Hey silver..

I connected via screwdriver the pos wire from the battery on the solenoid to the smaller pos wires on the solenoid and it cranked right up. If I understood your post this indicates a bad ignition switch, right?

Thanks

 

[ezeke]

Re: Johnson starting issues

As tashasdaddy said, check the fuse first. The fuse is in the line that runs from the battery connection at the starter solenoid to the ignition switch at the control.

The starter can be jumped at the engine with a bad fuse. The engine will still not start unless the key is in the run position.

 

[EJ3]

Re: Johnson starting issues

I will definetly check the fuse first! Thanks!

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Johnson starting issues

That test does not necessarily prove its the ignition switch. Remember, 12V needs to get to the switch, through the switch, and then back to the solenoid. So the problem is not the solenoid, but it can be the fuse, the wire from the engine to the switch, the switch itself, or the wire from the switch to the solenoil.

Open the control box so you have access to the back of the ignition switch.
Using the voltmeter, see if you have 12V on the "B" (battery terminal). This is the 12V feed FROM the engine. If you don't, the problem is in the wire between the engine and the switch.
If you do, then have someone hold the key in the START position and see if you have 12V on the "S" (start) terminal. If you do, the problem is in that wire. If not, the switch is bad.

 

[EJ3]

Re: Johnson starting issues

I took the fuse out and it was blown. I took some copper wire and connected it to each end of the fuse holder, taking the place of the blown fuse. I let it stand for a few seconds to see if anything happened, nothing happened. I turned the key and nothing happened. I turned the key again and held for a few seconds and the wire taking the place of the fuse got warm and still nothing.

What does this mean!!??

What causes the fuse to blow?

 

[ezeke]

Re: Johnson starting issues

Don't bypass the fuse or you will burn up something else. The fuse is 20 amp.

A likely problem is a bad solenoid, or the wrong solenoid. If you could post a picture of it someone can tell. At any rate you have a short somewhere in the starter circuit. It may be the switch, the solenoid, or the wiring in between.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Johnson starting issues

I certainly hope that there is a starter LOCK-OUT switch on this motor

Either in the control box or on the shift linkage at the motor, to prevent the starter from working in gear.

 

[EJ3]

Re: Johnson starting issues

Yes, there is a neutral switch in the control box insuring that the motor is in neutral upon starting. Thanks for pointing it out as I am a novice boater and could have never known!

 

[EJ3]

Re: Johnson starting issues

So i almost have it finished!

I replaced the solenoid, which by the way it had the wrong one in it from the previous owner! I was able to start it a few times with the key, which fired up instantly by the way, but went through a couple fuses as well. I noticed that the first "click" of the key engaged the choke and the second "click" turned the motor over. Now nothing happens again with either "click". I am giong to get a new ignition switch today and get that in there tonight.

Would a faulty ignition switch work intermitantly and/or blow fuses?

Also, I was reading a thread about rectifiers. Do they go bad over time? This is a 1977 55hp Johnson, should I just replace it for good measure?

 

[F_R]

Re: Johnson starting issues

You have a short to ground somewhere, that is why you are blowing fuses. And also why the jumper wire that you bypased the fuse with got hot. It isn't the key switch or the solenoid. But I can't tell you where it is. It has to be found by doing a systematic circuit test with your meter.

Rectifiers don't just go bad. But they can be blown in a heartbeat by loose or corroded battery connections. Your TV set is full of rectifier-type components. When is the last time you replaced on of those?