Just cant figure this out...

[dingbat]

Switched over to the A1 fuel line for ethanol fuels, same hose as my prior boat had in it for over 8 years and not one issue.

SAE J1527- A1 designed for use under decks and in enclosed areas. Its large diameter and stiffness makes it cumbersome for use with a primer bulb.

SAE J1527- B1 is specially designed for outboard use. It's smaller in diameter and much more flexible than A1. Works well for the flexiable run between the fuel filter/tank and motor.

 

[airshot]

SAE J1527- A1 designed for use under decks and in enclosed areas. Its large diameter and stiffness makes it cumbersome for use with a primer bulb.

SAE J1527- B1 is specially designed for outboard use. It's smaller in diameter and much more flexible than A1. Works well for the flexiable run between the fuel filter/tank and motor.

The stuff I have is reasonably flexible, as I have no issue hooking and unhooking the fuel hose barb fitting and it moves easy as the motor turns from side to side. My boat sits in a barn when not in use, only 2' is exposed when on the water and only for 6-8 hours at that. Prior boat was also stored in barn with same type fuel hose and exposed for a day at a time only. Never a sign of any issues, but did go thru a couple bulbs, getting goods one can be a challenge, so I always carry a spare.

 

[dingbat]

The stuff I have is reasonably flexible, as I have no issue hooking and unhooking the fuel hose barb fitting and it moves easy as the motor turns from side to side.

More of a heads up for others on the difference in bend radius should the need arise.

My fuel and oil lines are run in a rigging tube that lays in the splash well. Every little in diameter and bend radius is a help

 

[Chris1956]

Wow, you have a rigging tube? I use electrical tape to tape the electrical, fuel, cables and water tubes together to make the splashwell neat.

 

[dingbat]

Wow, you have a rigging tube? I use electrical tape to tape the electrical, fuel, cables and water tubes together to make the splashwell neat.

I did the same as you for many years.

Figured I’d do something different when I replaced the fuel and oil lines last time since I had the 2” robotics conduit and bulkhead fittings left over from a project at work.

Having said that, I’ll probably switch over to a mesh sleeve next time. Would play better with the wash down hose stored in the splash well too

 

[Cup420]

I have never gotten more than mabey 5 years from cheap fuel hose, then I started buying the good stuff. Can't say I have owned a boat long enough to have a good quality fuel line go bad. Great piece of mind knowing your fuel line was not going to be a problem. Last gray hose from wallet world went bad within 3 years. The previous owner showed me the receipt for the new hose but it failed just short of three years. Switched over to the A1 fuel line for ethanol fuels, same hose as my prior boat had in it for over 8 years and not one issue. The squeeze bulbs are another issue, they seem to crack and leak long before the hose fails. I always carry a spare bulb and clamps, just in case. If you !ook close, you can see some small cracks develops before they leak. Close inspections are part of my maintenance routine.

I finally figured out the problem, and it was my carbs. I just rebuilt them last year, but they were dirty, jets were clogged as well. Lots of yellow, but I don't know how that's possible since i've only put ethanol free in it since i've owned it. Using a dedicated pump for my fuel from now on.

 

[Chris1956]

Ethanol, despite what the old wives tales say, is not bad for your fuel system. It will clean the fuel system upon first use, and that can be an issue, but once you have used it, it absorbs water in the fuel and keeps all the components clean. Modern engines use alcohol-resistant rubber components, so that is not usually an issue.

Alcohol-free fuel has been clogging carbs since carbs were invented.

 

[99yam40]

either put a shut off valve in fuel line, turn it off, and then drain the carb bowls so no fuel sits in there and evaporates leaving residue behind,
or fire up the motor often to get fresh into the carbs.
if you let it sit for months without firing it up you need to drain the carbs

 

[Chris1956]

either put a shut off valve in fuel line, turn it off, and then drain the carb bowls so no fuel sits in there and evaporates leaving residue behind,
or fire up the motor often to get fresh into the carbs.
if you let it sit for months without firing it up you need to drain the carbs

Gee, I don't do any of that. I leave the fuel line connected to the engine all winter. It is a V6 with 6 carbs, so it would be hard to drain and running it dry would be bad. My carbs are clean.....who knew?

 

[Mc Tool]

I just disconnect the fuel hose at the motor and either run it out of fuel or drain the carbs ....usually both

 

[99yam40]

Gee, I don't do any of that. I leave the fuel line connected to the engine all winter. It is a V6 with 6 carbs, so it would be hard to drain and running it dry would be bad. My carbs are clean.....who knew?

So it sounds like you need to fire the motor up more often to keep fresh clean fuel in the carb bowls.
carb bowls are vented to atmosphere and will allow the fuel to slowly evaporate

OP is correct running a multi carb motor until it dies is not good, because some cylinders will be running lean or without fuel and oil while others are still burning fuel.
that works well on a single carb motor,
but they all still end up with some fuel in the bowl that will leave residue once it evaporates.

My generator is run until it dies after I turn off the fuel valve, but it has a bowl drain with a drain hose to easily drain the rest out of the carb bowl

 

[airshot]

Gumout was on the market long before E fuels were even created. So yes non E fuels can gum up a carb. What folks have not yet accepted is your probably buying already tainted fuel at the station. I frequently sample my fuel as I am filling my tank. Often found gunk in the fuels....until the local farmers formed a co op fuel station. Never had any gunk in the fuel and no one that uses it has had any issues. There are many additives that can help stabilize and slow down the fuel going bad, but many refuse to use them. So....keep rebuilding carbs or do something to prevent the buildup.

So it sounds like you need to fire the motor up more often to keep fresh clean fuel in the carb bowls.
carb bowls are vented to atmosphere and will allow the fuel to slowly evaporate

OP is correct running a multi carb motor until it dies is not good, because some cylinders will be running lean or without fuel and oil while others are still burning fuel.
that works well on a single carb motor,
but they all still end up with some fuel in the bowl that will leave residue once it evaporates.

My generator is run until it dies after I turn off the fuel valve, but it has a bowl drain with a drain hose to easily drain the rest out of the carb bowl