Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Hooked on Deanna

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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

More pics...I used 2" angle to replace plastic around transom.
 

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Hooked on Deanna

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Results from my second voyage wasn't as good!!! I attempted to tilt the starboard motor and snap! The two bolts holding the tiller arm broke. Can you independently raise or lower a twin outboard? Does anyone know why the tiller broke? I removed the steering bracket that attaches to the motor and had to heat and hammer out the two 5/6" screws. Will order new screws from from Seastar (hydraulic steering manufacturer). The fun part will be drilling out the broken screws on the motor's tiller arm.

I noticed that one engine was generating alot more exhaust bubbles than the other. Does anyone know why I'm having excessive exhaust bubbles coming from one of the outboards? I replaced the impellers myself could the pump tube be the problem?
 

Sea Schaul

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Feb 23, 2006
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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

I had something like this happen a few years ago. I noticed the arm was torquing wa too much and I stopped before it broke. It was making a popping sound so it was cloes. If memory serves me, the marina mechanic heated the arm and was able too work it free.

Glenn
 

Hooked on Deanna

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Feb 22, 2009
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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Can you tilt one motor at a time...Did this cause the bolts to break?

Any idea why one engine seems to bubble more exhaust then the other (RPMs are reading the same)?
 

Sea Schaul

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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Yes, you can tilt one at a time. As far as the bubbles, mine do have slightly different exhaust characteristics but I never thought iof it as a problem. Are the engines at the same rpm when you notice the bubbling? I noticed that even a couple hundred rpm makes a difference.
 

Hooked on Deanna

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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Thanks....I'm hopeful the exhaust isn't a problem! Both engines run great.

Did your bolts break...Have you heard of the bolts breaking due to fatigue or something. I would like to know why they broke...
 

Sea Schaul

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Feb 23, 2006
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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Mine didn't. Now that I think about it, the connection near the starboard motor froze instead of rotating it like it was supposed to, When I moved the port motor the metal bracket started to bend on the starboard motor. Once the mechanic heated it up and broke it free, it worked from then on.
 

Hooked on Deanna

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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

I think I understand now. The tie rod that connects the motors have ball joints on each end. The ball joint on the side that broke, siezed up. This is an important maintenance point. I will make sure I lubricate these joints (apply heat if needed) every season!

Thanks...I'm sure I will have more questions it is great to be able to discuss these issues with you!
 

Hooked on Deanna

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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Well I just got done un-freezing the tie-rod ball joint where the bolts broke. As I think back I remember hearing a popping sound while tilting the motor, but didn't know what to make of it. Some simple maintenance is all that was needed to prevent this problem.

The marina owner was kind enough to take my boat back out of the water. While its out I'm going to remove the lower unit and seal behind the water pump. The marina mechanic thinks the excessive exhaust bubbles are coming from an exhaust leak in back of the water pump (I didn't seal because a differ mechanic said not to). I also noticed that the prop hub is missing two of the three exhaust port plugs. The other engine has all three plugs...maybe this is the cause of the excessive exhaust bubbles???
 

lyle

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Sep 5, 2007
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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Hooked....you are going to have to take us out for a ride to your favorite fishing hole when this job is done....oh I forgot, boat projects are never fully completed....we are enjoying the project ourselves...march on !!!
 

Hooked on Deanna

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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Back in the water!!!! Had to drill out the screws and install inserts. I could not have did this without the experience mechanic that help me...or I helped him. The screws lined back up with the 3-1/2" extension plate which is no small wonder considering this was drilled manually!
 

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Hooked on Deanna

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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Now that I got that repair over with lets talk about the "shake down" run.
The engines performed great. I achieved about 5200 RPMs on both engines and 45 MPH (using GPS). She is a beast! When I push the throttle she leaps out of the water!

I discovered the speedometer didn't work because it was cut in half deep in the hidden gunwale passage. Fished a line and will pull a new pickup tube tomorrow. I noticed that one of the trim indicators isn't working, but I don't think I really need them. May replace the trim indicators with temperature or pressure gauges . Any thoughts?

I also learned how narrow my slip and the fairway is (looks huge from land). I was somewhat embarrassed trying to dock my boat. Have decided to pay an extra $150 to get in a longer and wider slip that is a single sided fairway (no boat to worry about crashing into on the other side). I figure it is a pay me now or pay me later decision!

Gas is up to $3.09 at my marina so I plan on getting 100 gallons this weekend (ouch) in case it continues to rise. The marina gets gas every week and a half on average. It was 2.89 yesterday before the refill.
 

frankie g

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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Check your WOT rpms. Look to see what your engines need to be at @ WOT 5600 rpms? and make sure that boat is propped correctly. It will run peak performance and economically as well when its propped right, go stainless or X7 alloy type props. B.O.A.T. "break out another thousand" Enertia are beautiful props! But there are many others besides.Go out with a typical load ( fuel and weight when this is being done )and record your rpms, gpm (if you can), and speed @ 3000 ,3500,3800, 4000, 4300, 4500, 5000, 5500. and so forth all the way up to you WOT recommended rpms. If you can go over your spec, your under propped and if you are below that recommended rpm your over propped. You can Talk to Ken2 @ prop gods he knows his stuff, I just got done dealing with him and got my trohy propped right, and what a difference. The rule of thumb is 1 inch of pitch higher will loose 200 rpms and 1 inch in pith lower will gain 200 rpms take those performance no3 and post them for ken and he'll know what to suggest OH! you'll need to know what diameter and pitch your props are to start, they will be stamped on the prop it self either on the outide or inside where the prop nut is, talking to a pro. will save you dollars, so be where of friend s that know it all! ( I went through that myself )Being at the right rpm at WOT will make your engines happy at all rpms and last you longer and perform better, with fuel economy. I went from stock alumin. to stainless and should have done that along time ago. my boat handling and fuel economy has increased. I get on ave 1/4 mpg more per ml, with my 100 gal gas tank thats 25 more mls per tank! I'll take that! so instead of long range being approx. 200 mls , I around 225 per tankful, and you do understand that depends on the wind, the seas, and my hand on the throttle. Have fun, Boating and fishing is ADDICTIVE!
 

Hooked on Deanna

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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Well I'm not operational! The tilt issue turns out to be more serious than I thought. I have the dreaded frozen tilt rod. Anyone know the process for unfreezing the tilt rod. I'm not sure if the entire rod must rotate or just the supports that attach to the cylinder. Help....Please somebody!
 

Hooked on Deanna

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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Got it!...Small machinist jacks under each support then carefully load (do not bend the aluminum supports) and spray with PB Blaster. Checked for movement for 5 days (spraying each time..wrap with a rag to hold the lubricant). On fifth day I heated with an industrial iron (can reach 600 deg F) until the support hit about 250 deg F. Be careful that you insulate the cowl and all hoses from the heat (used fiberglass cloth and attic insulation). I completely removed the steering assembly from the cylinder and removed the nuts from the supports that attach to the rod (this would allow the arms to pivot independently if needed. Tapped with a hammer and the rods released (separately...the arms can pivot on the rod ends without the entire rod turning).

My arms were stuck in the down position and when free were in the up position (I guess those arms rotate +15 degrees). The arms didn't seem to be free by just trying to move by hand but when I reinstalled the steering assembly and all the nuts the rod rotated when tilting!

Patience and heat did the trick you can use different heat source but I wanted to stay away from an open flame. I was looking at a +$400 (Marina wanted to haul out of the water) repair bill if the rod didn't need to be replaced! Hope this helps the next guy presented with this problem!
 

Hooked on Deanna

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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

So far so good...She likes 4000 RPMs (@35 MPH). I did notice that she lists about 2" to starboard (with my bilge and fish wells dry) at the dock. When running she's level and holds a heading without compensation. Is this normal?
 

Sea Schaul

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Feb 23, 2006
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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

The list is fairly normal. I try to level it out by strategically loading boat to overcome it. I find that this boat needs a lot trim tab adjustment as you run to optimize performance.
 

lyle

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Sep 5, 2007
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Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

check to see if the freshwater holding tank is filled....my 2359 does that whenever the tank is empy...I have a 27 gallon tank and the weight will add up to help correct the list toward starboard (my tank is on the port side), I assume it would be the same way for a 2502
 

Hooked on Deanna

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Feb 22, 2009
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142
Re: Just Purchased, 1993 2502

Another problem...

Replaced the rocker switch and pump for my trim tabs but I still can't get the port side to extend. I switched hoses and the port side piston works. I don't get it. Either the new pump is bad or I have a wiring problem. The pump runs when I press the port side bow down but no pressure is generated???? Any thoughts...
 
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