keel soft spot

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: keel soft spot

First I'd tape some heavy plastic to the outside.
Then I'd use 1.5oz CSM and make a patch 2" bigger than the hole, then another 3" and another 4" and lam them all together on a table then coat the patch area with resin and apply the patch small patch down first. Smooth everything out and let it dry. Follow up with 5" 7" & 10" patch of 1708 and call it good on the inside. Outside, I'd grind, feather, Layer 2-3 layers of CSM or what ever it took to bring it to level then sand and fair. Others may have different opinions. That's just how I would do it.
 

juicebox

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
82
Re: keel soft spot

thanks for the reply, i'll post some pics of the inside tomorrow. let me know if it looks like i ground it enough. thanks again. just want to get it right, the walleye are about to get hot here.
 

Ciera2450

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
1,049
Re: keel soft spot

If your using a grinder....the abrasive sanding discs work much better. the stick on will fly off everytime.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: keel soft spot

I agree. Harbor Freight Sells the back up pad and discs CHEAP
 

dOb

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 14, 2010
Messages
244
Re: keel soft spot

I had a similar repair. I did pretty much what Wood just suggested. But I had three holes, and the repair wasn't as long as yours. I used a couple layers of packing tape on the outside. It was plenty to work against from the inside. After the inside repair sets up, just peel the tape and clean up with acetone. You're going to need to sand and acetone the outside before you layer CMS anyway.
 

juicebox

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
82
Re: keel soft spot

here are the pictures from the inside. i took the pic right after i cleaned it up a bit, but noticed the yellowish tinge on the top side of the hole. thats remnants of flotation foam, which i ground out after i took the pictures. what does you guys think? does it look good and clean, or should i keep grinding some more? there was woven in there, but i'm not sure if it was a patch or just original fiberglass. it doesn't appear that the deck was ever removed, but what do i know. let me know what you think guys. i appreciate all the help.
 

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Ciera2450

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
1,049
Re: keel soft spot

Looks nice and cleaned up to me... Just be sure to wipe with acetone thoroughly before new glass
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: keel soft spot

Thank you for the updated pics and info..

Sorry.. I have been so swamped with everyone and there brother wanting to splash this weekend ( weather really took a part on such a short launching time ).

On to the repair..

Good inside grinding that I can tell .. as long as All the inside is prepped around the repair as seen in pic one of your updated pics ..

For these types ( and location ) of repairs..its recommended to do your OUTSIDE lams First. The outside should be the bulk of the repair..and the Inside should be for rivet affect bonding ONLY..

Basically you Grind and feather the Outside..for the main lams ( which seems you have )..then Scuff/grind the inside for backup ( which seems you have ).

Think of a bottle with a cork .. were is the pressure coming from.. from the OUTSIDE ( especially when your " repair " is on the keel ). The taper should be on the outside because its more structurally harder to push a 5 ply 10" lam Through your hull. .. but if your doing your bulk repair from the inside..well then your are only relying on one lam of 1.5 oz mat to bond the main repair on the back pressure side. I hope Im explaining this well.

Here is what I do..

1. Get some duct tape on the INSIDE to start making your form.. a few 3 layers of duct tape should make a good form base for the inside. You can tape down a strip of wood on the keel point to help form your inside ( Basically Form the inside ridged enough for you to glass and bubble roll the outside without pushing your form through ).

2. Glass your outside starting with 1.5 oz mat..followed with prewetted 1708 until its built up enough for you to grind/sand fair. If your grindout is feathered correctly you can do this in one shot..if not..you may have to lam 4 layers and STOP because the shape of the outside repair cannot be shaped to a regular concentric even shape for lams. Wait for it to kick off..grind a little more to debur and recut and glass some more..

3. After your first lam on the outside has been done..you can proceed to the inside lams. Starting with one 1.5 oz mat .. then layup 3 layers of 1708 .. Done.. ( You dont need to stagger cut the inside..just 1.5 oz mat 3 layers of 1708 ).

4. Grind/sand/finish your outside .. ( this is the tricky part which you can not explain in a forum..its just ..well a glass thing ).

Cant have too much acetone..or rags..or Full face respo ( if you cant get that then a respo and Goggles with 95% of them little holes taped up..) grinding suit..etc .. You should know the drill by now ;) ..

YD.

PS. check your inbox.
 

juicebox

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
82
Re: keel soft spot

thanks so much guys. i'm going to start the lams this weekend when the weather breaks. erie is a mud pool so i'm not even that upset, yet. will definitely take pics of my progress and hopefully be on the water soon.
 
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